Down the Mekong

---

I'm not sure where Ria left you but I'll start with our second day in Laos.
We had arrived in Houayxai (who-ate-si) the day before and had experienced a slightly more pricey version of Laos than we were expecting. Alas this was to continue as we were herded aboard our "romantic, slow boat" ready for our trip down the Mekong to Louang Prabang.

We had negotiated with the local bank clerk for a 3% charge to withdraw money using our visa card at a rate which I'm sure was well below what we should've been receiving. NOTE to anyone travelling in Laos, there ARE ATMs (at least one in all major cities), however none of them accept VISA, they will take mastercard etc. But there is usually a charge, followed by the charge from your own bank and then to add insult some of them only let you draw out a maximum of 700,000 Kip each time, so you are forced to go back again and again. Saying that, we just used our Visa at the Cash Exchange places and paid the 3-5% charge each time.

Anyway, so we had got cash out and were shuffled onto the boat, a feeling not too dissimilar to that which a sheep may feel when being herded home. And the boat was not much better than that which a sheep may expect going on the same journey. Having said that, we did get our own seats, one girl had to string up her hammock over the end of the boat. Finally, (after arriving promptly at 9.30am) at about 11.30am we set off.

We had met a French guy at the "bank", Pierre who was very interesting and became immediate friends for the rest of the journey. After 7 hours or so of avoiding rocks and cruising gently downriver we arrived at our overnight stop in a little place called Pakbeng. This place turned out to be ok. We managed to negotiate a cheap room which even came with a hot shower, something of a novelty as the whole town was running on generators which weren't on in the mornings. So after a lovely meal that evening we stumbled into our room (the generators finished running for the day at 10pm too) and slept soundly thanks to our earplugs.

In Laos we were quick to realise that the most invaluable things you can take with you are earplugs (and toilet paper). If it isn't the local population, which all seem to rise with the sun then the local rice shucking machines will get you, and definitely, above all else, whether it be 1am or 4am the cockerels are sure to do their level best to keep you awake. Like some sort of Mexican wave you can hear them calling to each other across fields, rivers, whole valleys and you can hear all of their friends replying. Definitely an experience neither of us will forget in a while.

Anyway, we slept well in Pakbeng, we even gave the screaming child a run for its money. We were up early with the idea of getting to the boat as soon as possible, learning from yesterday that those who turn up last get to sit in the aisle down the centre. However it seemed the rest of the boat had done exactly the same thing. We got seats again and sat waiting with everyone else for an hour or two for the boat to begin the second leg.

The rest of the journey was very pleasant, aside from the noisy Americans who didn't seem content until they had drunk every available bottle of beer on the boat, however they were entertaining at times. We met a couple of Irish guys who gave us tips on finding work and places to stay in Oz, they also told us that there are around 6million Irish living in Ireland but around the world there are over 60million Irish passports!!! Apparently if all the Irish around the world went back to where they wouldn't fit back in the country.

Anywho, shortly we were coasting along the river to the shores of Louang Prabang, the sun was setting over the mountains and it really was worth it in the end. 5pm or so and LP was beckoning us, so we set off with Pierre in search of a cheap place to rest our heads.

---

Photos

That's not our boat
But it's the same type. Very early in the morning in the mountains

Comments

[Richard Harper]

'Ria aboard the boat' photo
That military style hat, that face.... you look like Patty Hearst! (check the photo of her on wikipedia article and you'll see!) LMAO, enjoy!

[Debbie Johnson]

Laos
It looks like Laos is very primitive... But you said you enjoyed it most! It was nice meeting you in Koh Chang-- now I'm back in cooold Korea~

[adnria]

Hi Debbie!
Yeah, it was very behind the times but didnt mind at all as the scenery is so stunning and the people are so lovely! Def put it on your list of places to go! Hope you back to Korea ok, was fun snorkelling with you and Ramona!