Gibbon Experience


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Asia » Laos » West » Ban Houayxay
May 5th 2007
Published: May 5th 2007
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Hello from Laos!
I can't believe that we are here already when it seemed like a distant country in our planning. Time is certainly flying (quite literally) as we have had some great experiences since I last bored you.
Having crossed the border between Thailand and Laos, which is in reality a river, I managed to part with another couple of those awful photographs for my visa (I'm surprised they let me in-I expected to see a Wanted poster). We had to stay in the very functional border "town" (one street) of Huay Xai for a couple of days as we had previously organised our treat for Laos which was...."The Gibbon Experience"!!! This was the moment we had been waiting for, we were so excited. It basically translates as staying in the jungle for three days, two nights in treehouses that can only be reached via zip-wire, in hope of catching a glimpse of the rare Gibbon monkey.
So our day arrived and we crammed into the back of one of the two pick-up trucks along with other expectant zip-enthusiasts. It was a bumpy three hour ride, along the windiest uncovered road, climaxing with an off-road gradient that even
Treehouse 1Treehouse 1Treehouse 1

Home Sweet Home
the truck struggled with. It was like going up a downward escalator. We were dropped off in a rural village and I do mean rural-Wingrave's a city in comparison, trekking for an hour and a half deeper into the jungle. We stopped atthe guide's domain, known as "The Kitchen" where we were equipped with our harnesses that were to become part od our uniform for the next three days. The harnesses looked pretty simple; a few straps to step into and tighten round the waist, with a safety rope and brake system that was a bit of rubber tyre...mmm....by now Iwas feeling a little apprehensive simply because I wasn't too sure on how high we ould actually be zipping...but I was easily distracted by the cutest baby bear that was padding around. It was only 6 months old and so fuzzy, but as Sarah found out, looks can be deceiving as it's suckling became a little intense on her leg and left her with a love bite.
We followed the guide through the jungle to a platform, where in turn we were clipped and zipped. Standing on the platform, it became clear that previous zipping experience had taught me nothing,
SarahSarahSarah

Hanging like a pro one handed!
that I was about to suspend myself 150 metres above the jungle floor and fly through the canopy tree tops into a tree house. My legs did go quite jelly-like and I held my breath from the moment my feet left the platform. Gripping on so tight my nails embedded the tyre brake, I hoped I'd reach the tree house and not just drop to my death. Needless to say, we all made it across and congregated in Treehouse 1. This was to become Sarah's and my new home along with 4 others- a couple from Israel and another from Germany. The rest of the group dispersed between two other treehouses, one known as the Honeymoon suite. Our Treehouse was about 50 metres high and had three floors-the main living area, lower bedroom and bathroom and upper bedroom. It was completely open, save a few token curtains hung precariously around the bathroom and our beds-a mattress and surprisingly thick John Lewisy duvets and covers, all had really sound mozzie nets. We even had our own resident pig that lived in the tree roots below and so any scraps are just flung over the side......disturbing reports left in the visitor book
High FlyerHigh FlyerHigh Flyer

Can you see me for the trees??!!
say that this is also true of poo.
We were then allowed to go practice the art of zipping with the help of the guides, to make sure we could do it. After a few shaky attempts, we all bacame pretty much high flying Peter Pans, not so graceful as Tinkerbell, nor as confident as the super speedy spiderman guides. though. We spent our first evening listening to the sounds of the jungle, lit only by candlelight we were surrounded by dark at about 7pm. Like a moth to a flame, ha ha... the insects came, we were priveledged to see the biggest mother of a Spider cast her shadow of her big monster hairy body and sac of babies creep allong the wood.....that just made me want to lock myself into the safe haven of my bed...but then getting ready for bed was a challenge itself, balancing a torch using the drop toilet that seemed to harbour a fleet of bees, all the while keeping an eye out for any other beastie that may invade one's personal space...it was a very fast comedy of errors concluding with a few head bangs on various projecting tree branches. Tucking myself
 Zip line Zip line Zip line

Who dares go first to the unknown?
into my bed coccoon, I I suddenly became paranoid that a snake may have snuck its way in, hiding in my pillow case or feel a scurry of a gecko across my toes....but it soon melted away as I fell asleep listening to an orchestra of jungle sounds high up in the trees......
Our first morning and I woke around 5.30am to the unique call of the Gibbon!! Technically the y sing and boy, what a band, with the background buzzing, beating and humming, it peaked to a crescendo around 6am. The sound was so loud it was awesome. The singing itself is quite funny as it's a real excited bird sound (I'll do impressions upon my return, but think along the line of hyper Clangers). Between 5.30 and 6.30am we were taken for a walk to catch sight of the Gibbons. With half the group zipped out already Sarah as next suspended on the wire when Asaf called out "Gibbons!!" Too late...Sarah's grasp had been released as she cursed her way over to the other side. I was lucky and went to the lower floor where about 200 metres or so away two Black Gibbons were swinging in the
Me in a treeMe in a treeMe in a tree

I may be smiling but the socks to the left of me smelt soooo bad....
tree tops. How cool is that?! Such a lucky spot, it's nowhere near a guarentee that you'll see or even hear them if you come to the jungle, so I was fully made up!!
Unfortunately we didn't see any more on our walk as we caught up with the rest of the group. We returned for the bizarre breakfast of rice and various vegetables (all tasty but first thing?...not so much). Supposedly the guides are willing to take you around the jungle on treks, but this soon became apparent that once back in "The Kitchen" card games and some bubbling pot of smoke took favour. Being the intrepid explorers that we are we decided to go it alone. I must admit the fisrst time that I was responsible for the safety myself, clipping the brake on and safety rope I felt rather nervous...had I done it right?? Then to launch off is a bit of a leap of faith as if it's wrong then you'd soon know about it.
We recruited another member to our gang who in the hope of a little walk had not bothered with any footwear. This is important. We were due back to our Tree
View HallooooView HallooooView Halloooo

From our tree house, how beautiful is that?
house at 1pm where all the other Treehouses were to meet for lunch. We passed Tree house three which was some walk away, but they'd recommeded a nearby zip-wire that was really cool-going rifght between the trees, then onto another which was supposed to be the longest-either half or 1km, no-one's quite sure. So off we went and indeed we found the tree-lined one, but unfortunately there was no obvious way to get back. So we continued and came across another zip-completely unknown territory. I found myself going first, which was a little scary as I had no idea how long or where I would end up. So with the biggest run up I could muster I flung myself into the unknown. Obviously it hadn't been used that morning as I found I was breaking the cob-webs and quickly realised that this was by far the highest and longest zip I had come across. I suddenly felyt very vulneable and shit-scared that my harness would break and I was going to die. I managed to turn my head that had set transfixed on the zip-line to at least try and appreciate the stunning scenery around me. I was goiung across
Prepared to launchPrepared to launchPrepared to launch

With a grin of fear?
a valley of various shades of green and thick jungle that I had a birds-eye view of. This was the closest to being at one with nature. I was distracted then by slowing down, yet I still had so much more zip-line left til the platform....trying to swing my way further it was no use as I grounded to a halt and knew there was only one way to carry on, by pulling yourself....it's certainly a work-out for the arms. We all piled up and again realised that the only way back as to carry on. By now, time wasn't really on our side and on we trekked for hours, until we reached another treehouse. This could only be No5, which was advertised as being the 4hour trek to get to. Luckily a guide was at home and sent us in the right direction, but pointed out we'd be hopeful to get back by 4pm...if we went the right way. His directions were as loose as the old farmers' from The Fast Show...not only was it in Laos, but we had to remember to take the first zip, follow the little path, when you get to the big tree, bear
Misty MorningMisty MorningMisty Morning

Zipping into the clouds
left, then carry on, crossing the river three times, (beware of the leechy leechy) when you get to the cross-roads go up, up up and up...to Treehouse 3. From there we knew where we would be. Well believe it not, we did it without any mistakes. Along the way we picked up a few leechy leechys and the up, up up and up, was pretty might spot on. The height we climbed in such a short space of time I'm sure warrented acclimatisation. We were on time too, with a half hour to spare, even with our poor shoeless friend. Upon our return, we didn't exactly expect a fanfare welcome, but we were shocked to see that all our pineapple and ovaltine had been eaten and our place was a mess where the party had been at and we weren't there to enjoy it...
Our final morning had unpleasantly arrived, so with a last chance to see the gibbons I was on a zip wire within 30 seconds of waking, tying my laces as I went, being urged by the guide as he'd spotted one earlier. I was the only one who made it across, just quick enough to see
Care BearsCare BearsCare Bears

Kim the bear, that although was very cute, gave quite a love bite.
the movement of trees and branches made by the leaving gibbons. I think we were super lucky the first time. So our time in the jungle was up as we zipped out of our house and solemnly returned our harnesses. We met some really nice people though and as we travel the rest of Laos, so we keep meeting..........
Unfortunately having spent an entire afternoon trying to download photos, the connection failed and the memory card has been wiped..I CANNOT TELL YOU HOW GUTTED I AM. So aplologies, no photos for a while....although just salvaged a few!!!

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