Slow baoat up the Mekong to Thailand

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Our last 2 days in Laos. We leave our beautiful quiet guesthouse at 7 am and walk to the landing place of the slow boats and successfully secure 2 tickets for the slow boat up the Mekong towards Thailand. (We are well proud as we have done it all ourselves, despite travelagents trying to sell us the same tickets for 10-20% surcharge) I have noodlesoup and strong coffee for breakfast after we have dumped our luggage on the boat and are told that we won't leave for another hour. The wooden benches look quite uncomfortable but we wanted the slow boat (as oppossed to the fast boat - a speedboat which cuts the 2 day journey down to 5 hours - initially Terry wanted to at least consider this as an option despite the fact that the Mekong is full of solid rocks jutting out in the middle of the river and several people die each year. I was able to convince him that that fast might not be the best option.) The atmosphere at the river is calm and serene. I dash off and buy some fruit and sandwiches at the local market. Then we set off. The morning is cool and with the wind and humidity on the river it is actually quite chilly. We read that the lonely planet actually recommend bringing a pillow for the journey but that piece of info comes a bit late for us. The views from the boat are breathtaking though and the day holds enough great views for us so that the 9 hours until Pakbeng don't seem long.

Pakbeng is a village on the river halfway between Luang Prabang and the Thai border. It only really exists because the boats going up and down stream unload their customers there for one night. As we get off the boat there is a mad rush for hotels and lots of false promises by hotelowners waiting at the landing point. Eventually we settle into a place that seems alright for 5 USD. we have heard that people get burgled in their rooms at night so we are extra vigilant for bolts etc. After being served very mediocre laos food for dinner (the only time in Laos) we go to bed and the night is quiet. But we have had a visitor of a different kind: Some sort of rodent has eaten its way through my skirt and the bag that contained a cake or two for tomorrows long ride. Half of the food is now gone and what remains is inedible, and Claudi now wears a skirt making her feel like an '80's fashion victim. Grrrr!
We are fairly miffed. We decide for the first time not to pay the hotel the full sum (I know it seems a bit petty at 5 dollars but it's about the principle) as the electric shower in the room was broken (despite his promises that he had hot water) and we were actually advised to buy sandwiches the evening before. We give the hotel owner 3 dollars and an explanation and they only shout at us that we don't need to come to Laos if we havn't got the money. Yeah right! Your views would be appreciated on whether we are living up to our blog name.

On the boat for the second day there are actually cushions on every seat. how delightful! The morning is again quite cold, we wear all the layers we have and that is just about enough. Again lots of wonderful countryside and not a soul in sight along the river. Every few hours we pass a village but they are fairly small and generally there are no buildings near or on the river.
towards the end of the second day the scenery begins to change. We seem to leave mountain terrain and see paddy fields and other agriculture again. We get to Huaxai (last laos town before thai border) after dark which means that the border is already closed but it also means that we enjoy Laos hospitality for one more time. The guest house we stay in is clean and friendly. Dinner is simple but beautiful food. One last beer Lao and gently saying goodbye to a very charming country!

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