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Asia » Laos » North » Muang Ngoi Neua
July 24th 2008
Published: July 25th 2008
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How can I describe the beauty of Muang Ngoi Neua.

To reach this beautiful village in the western region of Laos you have to take a bus from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw and from there the journey is completed by longtail boat.

In fine contrast to the road trip to Nong Khiaw, which was completely uninspiring the boat journey on the other hand was remarkable. Not even my lethargy or the fear of rats was enough to dampen the experience. Travelling up the Nam Ou river you become lost in the beauty of the place. While the river itself is uninspiring it is the great scene around that captures you. Huge mountains appear to rise from the river itself and the trees that carpet it from top to bottom appear to defy gravity as they cling to the sheer rockface which closer to the summit drop at a terrifying 90 degree angle. But as the mountain falls down toward the river the pitch of the mountain falls significantly into a cascade of rich vegitation.


The river's current is surprisingly strong and when you are travelling upstream against the river's flow you suffer the strange sensation that the land is moving along with you. It has to be seen to be belieived.

The village itself is nothing to shout home about. There are no bars or discos, no internet cafe's, no ATM'S. Just peace and quiet and it gets better. There are no vehicles!! It is simply one muddy street lined with shops that are so sparsely filled that they serve no better purpose than to provide you with only the bare necessities. There are also the guesthouses, which double up as private residences and the same for the restaurants.

I met a typically beautiful lady in the village. She and her husband run Vita Restaurant (named after her husband) and the reason I mention her is because she is the finest cook I have ever met. Such that I asked if I could come and observe her and she loved the idea becuase unlike the touristy towns where cooking classes are advertised, here in Muang Ngoi Neua the concept is quite a novelty. Nang made a simple and delicious dish of fried fish and salad which I devoured with sticky rice.

Nang is typical of the people there. Hospitable, kind and best of all they do not see westerners as ATM machines!!

I spent 4 days there while my friends left a day earlier. I wanted some time out to myself to complete my journal and take a cooking class. Suffice it to say I am very glad that I did.

While we were there we attempted a muddy walk to the caves which we gave up on three quarters of the way becuase of the leeches. Eugh!! This is disgusting but unfortunately true: I had the misfortune of having to remove one of those blood sucking beasts from my ass!! I was screaming and Marion, she calmly said not to worry until an even fatter leech than mine jumped onto her foot. Then there was no stopping her screams. Hahhahaa!!

The day after we braved another walk but went prepared by wearing welly's, quite an attractive shoe even if i say so myself when matched with the right attire. Our guide for the day was Hompan and we were joined by the lovely American couple, Ben and Marion.

In fact we were very lucky this time for we met some tremendous people and I am glad to say there was not an English person in sight. The guesthouse we stayed at has a huge wooden balcony where we would retire to for the night and enjoy live music courtesy of Ladh from Israel and on the first night there, by a local Loas man who sang and played the guitar well but since it wasn't in English we had no idea what he was singing. Nevertheless the music was beautiful.

I returned to Luang Prabang last night and today i will be catching the bus to Vang Vieng which is to the south of Luang Prabang to catch up with Marion.

Bye bye and take care

xx


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this way to the leechesthis way to the leeches
this way to the leeches

"...don't be fooled by the beauty of the place...they are waiting for you.."
trekking buddiestrekking buddies
trekking buddies

marion, me, marianne, ben and the guide (Hompan)
my new friendmy new friend
my new friend

May i introduce you to Nang. The best darn cook in the world


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