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Published: April 7th 2008
Since we began our travels fellow backpackers were telling us about a small villiage in northern Laos called Muang Ngoy that can only be reached by boat-and that only when the river is high enough. We took a trip up to Nong Khieo in a mini van and then waited with other travellers for the ferry. The trip up to this villiage is very popular with Israelis. So many young travlellers have recommended the place and we were told that this villiage is part of a dissappearing trail that many of them visit. Our boat was packed and so heavy that we had to get out and walk about one mile through sand dunes while the boat found its way up the rapids. During the walk, the Lao woman leading us starting screaming as did several backpackers behind her. The rest of us held back while a swarm of bees attacked. Several people got multiple stings and when we got back to the boat the women yelled at the driver who thought the whole thing was hilarious.
Our first night was spent in a guest house with the 2 couples we rode up with. The woman running the place was quite a hussler and convinced us by saying we had electricity 24 hours a day. Ofcourse that just meant a small light in our room. No fan, or hot water shower, but there was a comfortable matteress on the floor and a mosquito net. We wandered around the villiage and met up with an Israeli who was staying in a bungalow for only 20,000 kip which is just over 2 dollars. We stayed there for the next 3 nights and had a gorgeous river and mountain view. The town is charming and the people are friendly and not in your face trying to get you to buy trinkets. We spent a day lazing away in hammocks and reading. We hired a young boy to take us to the "huge cave" on a paddle boat with the idea that we would float the river back. Alex and I had to paddle most of the way as our young guide was busy singing and daydreaming. After several hours of paddling we decided to go to shore and rest. Then our guide showed us a small opening in the rock formations which was the "cave". When Alex told him we had signed up for the big cave the boy laughed and said that one was several hours further in a motor boat. He thought it was pretty funny and apologized for the "misunderstanding". We then swam across the river and checked out the rock formations. The most impressive sight were the 100 or so butterflies lounging on one of the rocks. After resting a bit we swam back accross and began floating down the river. Unfortunatly there was very little current and we had to paddle most of the way. I began to get nervous when clouds starting rolling in over the mountains and we could hear thunder in the background. But the scenery was beautiful with the karst mountains covered in jungle growth and small gardens along the way.
We also spent a day trekking the area and finally did find an impressive cave. The cost was 10,000 kip and many people who go there don't realize how incredible this place is. Just inside is a shallow river flowing out that makes for a refreshing dip after hiking for and hour. However, the real fun begins when you pass the river and climb up and over some rocks to enter a huge cavern with several possible paths. Alex and I were prepared with proper shoes, water, headlamps, and ofcourse our camera and spent over 2 hours exploring. As we ventured further and further into the blackness the cave system became more exciting, but the air became heavier and we reluctently turned back. It was quite and adventure and don't worry we will post photos soon.
The lovely New York chicks we met in Luang Prabang met up with us in the villiage and we celebrated Joanne's birthday with a bonfire on the beach. About 20 backpackers came down for the event. Some locals had made a plan to start the fire but as that fell through Alex gladly jumped at the opportunity to be the boy scout and gathered wood to build a raging fire. After the fire got going some locals came down with guitars and Lao Lao(local moonshine) and the party-which happened to fall on the full moon went on until after 2am. Alex, the birthday girl and several others went for a late night swim in the moonlit, foggy night. I turned in early but could hear them egging eachother on. Like so many places we've seen we appreciate the tranquility of Muang Ngoy so much more after leaving. Becides the guesthouse that claims 24 hour electricity the rest of the villiage runs on generators from 6-10pm. But we didn't miss not having tv at all. From Muang Ngoy we went back to Luang Prabang for one more night stayed at our favorite guest house where we ran into the same quy who's cheap bungalow we had taken over. It was a happy reunion with a knowledge that we had spent time in a special place not seen by your average traveller. Along with that was the unwelcome feeling that in a few years the villiage will end up like many other small treasures that get taken over by the tourist industry. You want to keep places like this a secret but at the same time you want to tell everyone about the beauty and serenity and sense of peace one can find in such a rural area.
As we travel we've met several of the untourist tourists. People who want to be the first to discover a town and the first to tell about it. At this point so many places have gone through the cycle of rural, to backpacker paradise, to major destination points that its no joke that the tourist industry that some think is helping local economy's is actually destroying culture and the magic that brought people there in the first place. Today's paradise is tomorrow's old news. We feel very fortunate that we can visit so many places in South East Asia at this time. Our dollar is dropping but that helps us to appreciate it that much more. We arn't living like kings and in some towns its difficult to find economic lodging but the natural beauty of SE Asia is stunning. We too find ourselves thinking we'll be some of the few to visit a place only to arrive with a bus load of people and get herded into one of many large groups visiting the "untouristed, hidden places". At the end of the day its worth every minute. I"m getting a bit cheese ball now, it must be because Alex is urging me to get off the computer and get ready for a night out....
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Roger Heine
non-member comment
Wonderful Writng
Hello Julija and Alex! Wow, I really enjoyed your excellent method of the reader almost being there. You have a great talent in your writing and what you present makes me feel a part of your saga. I can just see Alex building that bonfire, as well as the two of you going into that majestic cave. I agree, tourism will change the place to some degree. I'm glad you have been there in its beauty!