Goodbye Laos - Boo Hoo!


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Asia » Laos » East » Vieng Xai
September 9th 2008
Published: September 9th 2008
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After boat race day, which was exceedingly hot, we left the next day to head to Nong Khiaw. There were no buses running that day because there was another day of boat races, so we ended up on a Sawangtaew, which is basically a cross between an oversized tuk tuk and a mini pick up van. Along both sides of the van run two pieces of wood, covered with the minimal of padding, which are your seats. There is limited room on top for bags and boxes and what is left is deposited along with quite a few extra bodies for good measure in the centre of the two wooden planks!! This all equates to no room to move at all (and I mean that!) because everthing and everyone is packed in as tight as possible. We ended up sitting right at the back of the van, which allowed me at least to dangle my legs over the back - but making sure to avoid the people standing there, hanging on to dear life as we bounced and weaved along the road! The road was no more than a very narrow english country lane, but dropped and rose through spectacular scenery, linestone karsts and jungle - so you can imagine the journey! The duration was about four and half hours, and en route the heavens opened! Ho Ho did I get wet - and our bags were on top, with no covering - oh joy!

Nong Khiaw is a one horse town on the river. It consists of one muddy road through the centre and that's about it. We had planned to stop a few nights but quickly changed our minds. We had planned to stop in the Sunrise Guesthouse, but for the first time ever, I took one look at the bathroom and then the bedroom and simply said 'no can do pooh!'. So we headed back over the bridge and stopped at the Chittavong, which at hot water, a proper toilet and nice big windows to let in alot of natural light! Lonely Planet describes Nong Khiaw as magical - hmm - that was lost on us. The surrounding countryside is absolutley beautiful, but the tiny village is a muddy/dusty (dependent on time of year) thoroughfare with little else to endear barr the cute puppies and beautiful butterflies. Ah well it wouldn't do for us all to be the same! We planned our escape the next to day on a bus to Sam Neua a twelve hour trip!

Our bus was infact a minibus that came from Luang Prabang (four hours away) and had fifteen seats - would there be any room left for us? Initially the bus was full to the rafters, but we managed to squeeze in and I ended up sitting on a fold away seat, that everytime went round a corner tipped me up and into Davids lap! Fortunately we lost people en route which gave us more room and me a better seat.

The road twists, turns, and bumps its way through rice fields, tiny villages, limestone karsts and jungle. Children run out to the minibus when we stop or pass through the villages,and the adults stop and stare. Watching the children play and interact with us with such innocence, is a sheer joy to us. An innocence long lost in the western world. There is lots of laughter and giggles, lots of waving and lots of sabaa-di (hello!) and when we take photos they are mesmorized to see themselves looking back! The villages are basic and as night fell most are only lit by candles or torch. There is electricity in most villages and a satellite dish in most. Through every village you go through there is a constant cheeping from chicks and duckings little pigs scamper off. Herds of cows wander along the road and at night they appear to sleep on the road along with wild horses. Finally goats and water buffalo join the throng to make a heady mix of life!

Now let me describe the road. It started off well, again no wider than an lane and then descends into utter chaos lurching from pot holes of varying sizes and then just plain old mud, rubble, landslide and then road ... what road .... its a footpath! But fear not appart from the driver taking one break in a 16 hour journey, we felt quite safe. To wake himself up he stopped at a waterfall and washed his face .. honest!!!

As night fell and we got closer to Sam Neua we were treated to the most fantastic electrical storm. The sky was crystal clear and jet black but the stars were amazing and shone like fairy lights. Backdropped by this was the electrical storm, which at times the lightning flashed so violently it positively blinded us - brighter than any camera flash. It was constant, all around us and totally awe inspiring.

We got to Sam Neua at about 1.00am, fell into a hotel and then headed out the next morning to stop at Vieng Xai home of the Pathet Lao Caves. We spent a few days here recovering from our trip and taking in the caves. Here we were very remote and by the looks of it few white people come here - although the tourist industry is slowly taking a hold. There is no internet as yet and only a clutch of basic accommodation. Our room had the smallest bathroom out! We just had a toilet and shower, I brushed my teeth by hanging out the window! At night you are bound my the natural light and fireflys oh and of course the obligatory electrical storm! Please note for all of you who know me, despite everynight of storms, I'm still not quite over my fear - but I'm getting better!!!

The caves are an interesting visit. There are seven open to the public and we hired pushbikes to see them. The caves housed a hidden city of approx 20,000 people during the american bombings in the 1960's. More bombs were dropped here in the nine years than in the second world war. During the day, people sheltered in the caves, there were schools, hospitals, markets, radio station, government administration, barracks and artillery supplies. At night the locals came out of the caves and worked on the land. Today you can still see the meeting rooms, kitchens and bedrooms. It's all very basic, not in the last bit touristy and you have an english speaking guide at each cave to tell you its history. The grounds immediately outside the caves and buildings have been landscaped and are pleasing and at some you can still see bomb craters.

After a few days we left and headed towards Vietnam. We caught the 7.30am Sangthaew to the border and were the only two aboard - phew loads of room!! We travelled yet again through the jungle, rice fields and limestone karsts. Everyone waved and shouted hello. After about half an hour we stopped in a tiny village with wooden stilt houses. The driver disappeared and we took the opportunity to stretch our legs. We assumed he had just popped home to get something but after about five minutes or so he called us to the house. Not quite knowing what was happening we duly followed. We removed our shoes at the bottom of the wooden stairs and climbed upwards. We entered the one large living aread and were met by smiling faces. In the centre of the lino covered floor was an aluminium dish and on top of this was meat, rice and soup. We sat down on the floor making sure we were not pointing our feet either towards our hosts or the food. We were about to have a real Michael Palin moment. We had joined the family for breakfast and they had welcomed us without any hesitation. Through broken english, sign language and lots of laughter we were invited to eat. We established the meat was wild boar. This was confirmed when they showed me the head in a sack! Nice - well actually it was!!! Then we were treated to Lao Lao, which is the local rice water (firewater to us!). Naturally to refuse would have been exceptionally rude. So being very brave I joined in. By 'eck Mother it's lethal! But all part of a fantastic experience. On the walls were larges posters of the Great Wall of China, Waterfalls and Westlife! There was two photos of their parents and a tv linked up by satellite to Thailand. After about half an hour or so it was time to move on. We were waved off all the way along the road by very happy people and we were sad to leave. This was one of best moments to date.

We carried on for another hour or so when I heard a hiss from beneath my feet. We slowed for long enough for me to establish we had a flat tyre. Oh No!! We alerted our drivers attention (who by the way had been on the Lao Lao with us!) and got him to pull over. Having found the spare tyre we established it was as flat as the one that was now lying on the side of the road. So there was nothing for it but to decamp to the side of the jungle clad road and wait for someone to come by. Now bear in mind there is hardly any traffic out here we resigned ourselves to a very long wait. But unbelievably after half an hour along came a truck. We had negotiated a lift with him when another Sawngthaew heading to the border turned up and we couldn't quite believe our luck. So we boarded this and headed on to the border. We felt awful leaving our driver behind but there was nothing we could do. None of us had working phones and we had to move on. I'm sure he was ok.

The border crossing was the easiest one to date - well it is the remotest one out - and then we were into Vietnam.


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