23rd Day, Last Day in Osh

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Day 24, July 19, 2009, Sunday, Jekshembi:

So, the schedule did get worked out and we bought a ticket on Kyrgyz Airline to return me to Bishkek today. That meant that most of yesterday was full of goodbyes including a visit in the late afternoon to the home of Amariam for an afternoon meal including a sheep's head. Amariam and I talked about what it takes to get accepted at an American University. She is preparing to take the TOEFL here and the SAT exam as she graduates. Her English is very good, with only an occasional difficulty. She would like to work in an business where her abilities as a translator would be useful.

In addition to the sheep's head, the meal consisted of a rib for each of us, a salad called mother's tongue which included julienned beef, cucumber, tomatoes, mild but spicy green pepper, and a marinade of vinegar, oil and lemon (I think). It was really good. There was fresh fruit including black grapes, peaches, watermelon, and a soup made of sheep broth (I did not care for it). We had a lovely afternoon.

We went home to the courtyard, where I sat outside with Marat and his friends Nurdin and Bekah, and with my young friend 12 year old Marcel until about 11 pm.

Marcel is really remarkable. He began making friends with me from the day I first arrived in Osh and showed up in his courtyard. I say his courtyard because he seemed to actually be in charge of much of the activity of the younger children in the courtyard. He often organized them for military style marches around the space, or for games of chase, and other contests and always with an intriguing smile. He began conversing with me first trying Kyrgys, then Russian. And by the third day decided to just learn some English from me.

I saw him early this morning as I awoke around six am even before the usual song of the milk seller and it was warm in the apartment, but cool outside. I slipped on a t-shirt and went down to sit on a concrete bench. Then Marcel's family began with him to carry out baskets full of fried dough shaped in spirals that appeared to be headed to the next stage in the celebration of some one's wedding or some other big celebration. Marcel took a short moment to come and sit with me and learn one more English phrase,”I am great.” A reponse to Kandi, or How are you, that he can use with others. It's funny, but I seem this afternoon in Bishkek to be missing him, Marat, his crew, Kuba, the colonel, and Gulbara. I am also missing the comforts of Osh, where there were less people in the household than here.

I have returned to Bishkek to find that Emil's brother Anatoly, his wife and 3 month old are here, along with workmen who are continuing the construction project out back and which now involves brickwork. Timka, Gulnara, Ainura, Orungul are also here, and we are filling up the lower spaces of the house. But there will be a return to normal as the night proceeds and morning comes. I will get some additional writing done in the morning when I will be the only one stirring at 6 am.

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Photos

At the Ak Borok
Colonel Nurmatov, Gulbara, Kuba, And Calvin at the mountain stream near Osh.

The Courtyard Gang
Marcel is at the far right.

At Amiriam's
The Sheep's head for the special guest

Amiriam and her mother
My hosts for the lunch

The spread
Another splendid spread greets the guests as they enter.