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Published: September 19th 2014
Having been absent from my bicycle for the past 4 months travelling around India, Nepal, Tibet, China and Armenia it's really great to be back in the saddle. The plan was always to continue my bike ride where I left off last year in November when my Father's serious illness and subsequent death meant that I had to quickly return to the UK.
What I hadn't bargained for or planned was that on resuming my bike ride I would now be accompanied by my Iranian partner Noushin. Cycling with a partner completely changes the dynamic of a bike ride. Having cycled solo for 8 months last year completing on average 100 KM per day, my routine was turned upside down as I had to adjust to a newer, slower pace of cycling, with shorter distances, more stops and a greater number of days off. It takes some getting used to, but I can honestly say that I have thoroughly enjoyed the more relaxed pace of life and with Noushin's ability to converse with Tajiki people in the Farsi language the two of us have been invited into more locals' homes than I could ever have imagined.
Returning to the
Tajikistan capital Dushanbe, sorting out the relevant permits to visit the autonomous region was a breeze the second time around and it wasn't long before Noushin and I set off from the Yeti Hostel towards Khorog, a 480 Km journey. This time round I decided to choose the northern route instead of the southern route as I'd heard that it was more picturesque. Although I didn't mention anything to Noushin about her bicycle I had reservations as to whether it would be able to complete the journey. Despite it being the 'Giant' reputable brand, the bicycle was purchased in Iran and is definitely considered the lower end of the price range. Secondly, it's not a touring bike but rather a hybrid with thin wheels and tyres, so my worries were definitely substantiated. Many other cyclists whom we met along the way also expressed amazement at such a bicycle being able to complete the Pamir Highway without a major breakdown.
My other initial worries were Noushin's fitness level. Other than cycling around the Island of Qeshm in the Persian Gulf and some local rides around Tehran, Noushin hadn't really participated in a serious bicycle expedition, however I had read many
blogs where people with 'zero' level of fitness had cycled around the World and I was hoping that Noushin would be able to replicate this scenario. What Noushin wasn't initially aware of was that she would have to conquer a 3252m pass within a week of starting the ride. The realisation of what lay ahead quickly materialised when the road gently began to climb upwards on the second day and Noushin shed a few tears in shock. Not only had she embarked on a tough bike ride, but she was also in a foreign country away from her friends and family. I told Noushin that this really wasn't a steep slope and that there was much worst to come but that it was all in the mind. If you really want something in life, you will do whatever it takes to overcome any obstacles. The Pamir Highway is definitely considered a challenging bike ride and I was pleased that Noushin had the strength of mind to continue. Noushin's ability to converse with the locals in Farsi, soon meant that we were invited into many people's homes and this hospitality and friendliness soon eased her fears as she settled into the
ride and realised that the ride is not just about reaching the destination but more about enjoying the journey along the way meeting people and learning new and different cultures.
The day when we would conquer the pass soon came and went and a pause on the top to take in the views whilst devouring dates and pistachiios allowed us to realise that the pain of climbing up a mountain is only temporary and this pain is soon forgotten when you are sprinting down the other side. The 3252 m pass was the highest pass I had reached so far in all of my cycling around the world and Noushin completed it within her first week. I had great respect for her and was very proud of her achievement, especially that she completed it during her first week.
Returning to the Pamir Highway has brought me as much enjoyment as it did the first time around and the fact that Noushin and I have been invited into so many family homes and been offered wonderful hospitality has once again highlighted the kindness of the Tajiki people. In many of the settlements women and the children are left to
fend for themselves, whilst the husbands work thousand of miles away in Russia where they command greater salaries. Seeing a couple turn up on their bicycles and particularly an Iranian woman who can speak their language, they are often excited to strike up conversation and bring out tea, cakes, sweets and locally produced honey and yoghurt.
On one other occasion, we asked a Gentleman whether we could camp on his lawn outside of his house. He at once invited us to sleep in his house and told us that if we camped on his lawn, he would be the laughing stock of the village.
Cycling through the villages you are always greeted by young children, who either say"hello" or "goodbye" or the Russian word "akuda" which translates to "where are you from?"
Along the way you also meet people living in tents provided by the UN, and despite not having a penny to rub together they will still stop you and offer you some tea or doogh, which is a yoghurt drink which they locally produce.
During one overnight stay with a shepherd and cow herder, we were offered bread, cream and tea which is their
staple diet. We donated a toothbrush and toothpaste to the Shepherd's daughter who despite having reached the age of 7 had never once brushed her teeth. The following day we got up early to witness the cows being milked during the morning. These people lead a hardy life and all at an altitude of 4000m plus.
As we progressed further along the Pamir Highway, the scenery became more and more beautiful and the wildlife became nosier as Marmots shrieked and gave warning signals as we approached their underground dwellings.
As on most journeys in Asia and beyond, one becomes ill at some stage or the other and for me it was in Alichur where I had a bout of sickness and diarrhoea. Despite taking antibiotics, my stomach kept presenting me with problems and a visit to the Hospital in Murghab became necessary to cure me of my condition. Hospitals in Tajikistan are very different to the ones we are used to at home and even more surprising was seeing the Kyrgyz Doctor turn up in his traditional hat and a pair of jeans.
As we progressed from Murghab towards the Kyrgyz Border, Noushin and I paired up
with Sabine and Ivo from Switzerland and Holland and Mike and Julie from England and we shared a few excellent days tackling the 4655M pass and the beautiful landscape around Karakol lake.
Entering Kyrgyzstan, Noushin and I were both excited to experience a new country together. The country felt wealthier in many respects, with more choice available in the shops. It certainly had a more Russian feel to it than Tajikistan and for once Noushin was finding it just as hard to converse with the people as I was, with a distinct change in languages.
Both of us found the scenery less striking than Tajikistan, however it was beautiful in its own right with wild horses roaming the countryside everywhere and yurts clearly visible on the horizon. The Nomadic people work the animals on the pastures throughout the summer and return to the capital Bishkek during the colder months. Their dogs are similar to the ones I experienced in Turkey… completely loyal to their owners and fierce and aggressive to any outsiders. We were regularly chased by these dogs as we sped past the yurts.
Vodka remains the most accessible good in any shop and judging
by the number of bottles discarded by the roadside, drink driving is not considered a terrible offence. During one overnight stay in a cafe, we were invited by some Kyrgyz Nomads to join them for a few drinks of Vodka. There was one Gentleman and 3 women who had downed 5 bottles of vodka. We asked them how they would be returning to their Yurts that evening. The man replied that it was only 18 Km to their Yurt and that there were hardly any policeman on the road at that time of night. If stopped by a Policeman, they would simply pay him a bribe and he would then allow them to continue their way home in their car. As cyclists we were frightened by this answer and the car and lorry drivers have certainly been very challenging along the way.
The following morning as we set off from the cafe, we witnessed sheep being sheared and slaughtered as the young children looked on and the dogs hovered around waiting to lick the sheep's blood from the bucket.
We have finally reached Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan after 6.5 weeks of cycling having scaled several passes in
excess of 4000 m and endured temperatures as low as -2 degrees and as high as 39 degrees all during the same summer month. We are now resting up for 10 days to recuperate, see some other parts of Kyrgyzstan as we prepare our bikes for the next part of the journey which takes us to the Far East and Laos for the next few months. The journey continues…..
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Jeremyaroundtheworld
non-member comment
the slower the better!
Enjoy, enjoy! I miss being on the saddle! Thanks for sharing! Lats year I cycled from Gansu (China) to Uzbekistan... The Pamirs and Kyrgyzstan were definite highlights! Great to hear you paired up for this adventure!