Japan Day 3

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Day 3:

Today, was a travel day beginning with a 3 hour drive to Mt. Fuji. Normally an uneventful ride, it got complicated because my stomach was trashed. I was sick as can be and we had to make two emergency pit stops along the way. Anyone reading this who has traveled overseas gets it. But we drove on, our goal being the Hokado Sculpture Park. Judi was feeling the effects of a long drive down winding roads and being stuck in traffic. On arrival there was lunch to be had for two, maybe three out of the four of us. On the menu there was a sandwich.Tomato, American cheese, Canadian bacon, and lettuce on white toast. Perfect. Judi and I asked Cheers to get us some plain toast. She tried. But like a lot of Japanese people, the restaurant manager was not flexible. He could not figure it out or would not figure it out. We ordered two sandwiches, made on toast. I had a half a piece of toast. Big mistake. We walked through the sculpture garden three out of four of us enjoyed seeing wonderful works by Henri Moore, Jean Dubuffet, Niki de St Phalle, August Rodin, and many Japanese artists with whom I’m not familiar. There is also a Picasso pavilion with an enormous collection of Picasso’s early works and some great later ones. I walked gently through the garden secretly wishing for a wheelchair.

A short drive later we arrived at Gora Kadan, our first Ryokan. I don't know how to properly describe a Ryokan. It’s a hotel or a bed and breakfast but is very, very Japanese. Everything about it is steeped in Japanese culture. The beds are futons on the ground. In each room there is a wooden soaking tub. One goes into the tub after washing in the shower. There is a coffee table four inches off the floor. The walls are bamboo paper. Service is traditional. Our porter (and guide while we were there) was Ryo. His English was great. He went to high school in Central Ohio and knew Kenyon College. We had an instant bond. But on checking in I was in no mood for the full tour and explanation. I took off my shoes, dropped to the futon and slept for the next three hours. Fran woke me with a surprise, Imodium. She found a “nice looking Jewish guy” at the bar and procured the drugs. I’ll be forever grateful.

Ryo was going to come to our rooms at 7 to escort us to our private dining room. Being a good sport I decided to try. But before that we bathed in our in-room tub. Then we put on our Komonos. While they were having their multiple courses, served by Ryo in a very traditional manner, I had a few bites of white rice. I held up a cup of plum wine which I probably wouldn't have drank even if I felt better. I embarrassed myself with my chopstick incompetence. The rice is wonderful, so much better than any I've had in the U.S. It is soft and mushy but not clumpy mushy. You can taste each grain and it doesn't hold together for chopsticks. I ended up eating one grain at a time, while the rest of the crew at course after course. As you can see from the picture, our seating was not something we were used to. Getting up from the table was an adventure in and of itself that I’m not eager to try again. Back at the room I noticed again that the futons on the floor were really comfortable and sleep came quickly. I woke up much, much better, ready to face the day.

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Comments

[Michael Marek]

Gita Kadanj
David We stayed there 2 years ago and a nice Jewish man in the lobby told us that they have legs for those low tables So you can sit on regular chairs while eating Less authentic but better for your back

[Tom Drum]

Great Reporting
Keep it coming David. This is Great Stuff!!!