日本へようこそ！ (Welcome to Japan!)

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When I decided to enroll in a Global Health Masters program at UCSF in the fall of 2011, Japan was one of the last places I thought I'd find myself six months later. As a person drawn to issues of poverty, development, and ethnic conflict, I assumed that I would end up doing my final project in a developing country in sub-Sarahan Africa or Latin America - not a first-world superpower like Japan. But, as is so-often the case in life, something unexpected appeared in my path that shifted my focus and changed my plans for the foreseeable future.

A few weeks into my program, I learned that a Japanese-American medical student at UCSF (Aimee Sato) had recently submitted a research proposal in which she hoped to assess the mental health of children who were affected by the earthquake, tsunami, and radiation leak that struck the Fukushima prefecture of Japan in March of 2011. While I had absolutely no experience working or traveling in east Asia, the project immediately called to me, both because of its focus on children and because of its unique look at complex humanitarian emergencies. Coincidentally, it also turned out that the dates of the project were going to overlap with the one-year anniversary of the Fukushima disaster (and cherry blossom season). As a result, I immediately contacted Aimee and, in addition to working on her project, also proposed making a short documentary about the Fukushima disaster and about the resilience of those who learned to cope and move on. We both agreed that a wonderful collaboration was in order.

Now, six months later, I have finally arrived in Japan and am just getting used to the new culture and way of life here. First, and foremost, the landscape - both rural and urban - is absolutely magnificent, and (particularly as an American) it is hard to comprehend how a city as large as Tokyo can be as clean and pristine as it is (I have yet to see a single piece of trash on the streets!). And while I have yet to really venture outside of Tokyo, I definitely hope to explore other areas of the country in the next few weeks, including Nikko (they have snow-monkies), Kyoto (the 'old' capital city) and Mt. Fuji.

As beautiful as this country is, though, there are also aspects of the Japanese culture that have me baffled. For instance, while I had certainly heard about things like 'pikachu' and 'Hello Kitty' while in the United States, I was still not prepared for how pervasive Japan's cute-culture/kawaisa really is. To be honest, while I love furry cats and talking bunnies as much as anyone, there is also something about Japan's obsession with a kind of child-like innocence that I find a bit disturbing...particularly when you see it in places like Shinjuku's red-light district.

Nevertheless, in honor of Japan's amazing sense of efficiency (and because I'm getting super tired!), here's a short list of recommendations for any other newbies to help them survive their first few days in Japan. (^_^)

1. If you don't understand Japanese, just bow your head slightly and say 'Hai" (yes), "Arigato" (thank you), or "Sumimasen" (excuse me). This will get you through 95% of social interactions.

2. As mentioned above, the cute-culture has completely overwhelmed Japan's advertising landscape, often leading to hilarious (and disturbing) results.

3. Do not take taxis unless you are extremely drunk and/or there is no other way to get home. My one taxi ride cost me about as much as a half-month's rent! Somewhat related...the Tokyo Metro also stops running at midnight (I really wish someone had told me that beforehand).

4. It is considered rude to eat or drink in public. I found this out after a group of women glared at me disapprovingly while I innocently ate a pastry in the lobby of City Hall.

5. Tokyo reminds me a lot of New York City, both in the pace of life (eg people walk very fast and with purpose) and in the style of dress (eg lots of black). However, the people in Tokyo are generally much nicer than the people in New York (and I feel I can say that after living in NYC for a few years). For instance, during my first day in Tokyo, I got very lost and a random man took 30 minutes out of his day to help me find my guesthouse. It would be hard to find someone willing to do that in New York!

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Photos

Golden Gai Girl
Near the red-light district of Shinjuku

Plum blossoms!
Less celebrated than cherry blossoms, but still pretty magnificent

Cute?
One of the many odd advertisements in Tokyo

Jitensha!
Biker in 'downtown' Tokyo