Samida Strolling

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I've been fascinated by the size, scale and efficiency of this city and what better way to get an understanding of it's amazing history than the excellent Edo Tokyo Museum. It traces the history of Edo/Tokyo from fishing village origins to modern day metropolis.

Except - CLOSED on MONDAYS! Whoops! Probably should have checked that before we trecked across town specifically. Nevermind, Ryoguko is home to the Sumo stables and while it's not Sumo tournament season, we did see a Sumo in the flesh.

Not a tall man, by any measure, but BIG! Long black hair tied in a top-knot above his dinner plate face and shoulders like a Rhino. His wide flat feet slip out of his sandals as he waddles to the train station in his yukata. The closed museum was a disappointment. Some American tourists ask us if it's closed as we walk back to the train station - I'm glad I wasn't the only one to make this rookie mistake.

We make the most of it though and decide to walk along the Sumida River for the few kms to Senso-Ji. Even walking along a jogging path is interesting as we take in the topiary trees and public artwork on the walls beneath the expressway. The kids make the most of the open space showing off their parkour skills on the benches and sloped walls.

The apartments on the riverbank opposite are typically Asian, if not particularly Japanese - tall, thin and boxy. The pathway is unusually quiet and despite the expressway overhead, the serenity of the river is relaxing. We spot the Tokyo Sky Tower and cross the Komogata Bashi (bridge) to Asakusa. Amongst the locals walking their dogs and exercising, it's not long before we are immersed in tourists. We must be getting close - the rickshaw count is peaking.

The entrance to the temple complex is marked by the Kaminari-mon - a massive red bell. We sneak a photo with the 700kg monument and check out some souvenirs. The temple is impressive but not as impressive as the Nishingi temple in Kyoto. Smothered by incence and tourists we have a quick look and head for Hoppy Nori and some lunch.

Like an episode of Deal or No Deal, the first restaurant indicates "no kids!" with two crossed arms. Happy to avoid the smokers and pleased with the yakitori at the next place we stumble on as we veer closer and closer to almost succumbing to the golden arches. Proud to have dodged that bullet on this trip.

We head for Cos - they have 50% off and while they are in Sydney an Melbourne, little Brizzy doesn't yet have Jules' favourite store. Little did we know that Cos was on Omote Sando - the Champs Ellysee of Tokyo.

Light rain falls as the kids and I kill time sat against the Cos window displays and appeciating the unique architecture of this splendid avenue. The glass Prada building is particularly cool - a big fish bowl built with thick glass shapes.

The temps drop from mid twenties to mid teens and the kids put their singlets back on without taking their shirts off and Milla steps into her leggings for warmth. The beautiful people parade up and down Omote Sando and we join the parade.

It's very light rain yet the Tokyoites all have their umbrellas out. Jules thinks its because they've spent hours on their hair and don't want to spoil their look. All the high end brands are represented on this strip but we're heading for Yoyogi Keon to check out Meiji Jingu temple.

Within 100 metres of entering under the imposing Torii gates we are blessed with the peaceful silence and woody scents of the forest. The threat of rain has dispersed most of the tourists and we enjoy an all but private stroll amongst the century old trees.

The rain is getting heavier now and we abort our planned walk to Shibuya and jump on a train at the nearby Harajuku station. We'd already done the Shibuya crossing but not under the glow of the massive neon screens that pop in the "darkness". So many screens of flashing light that it never gets truly dark. The sea of umbrellas and the rain gives the crowded alleys of Shibuya a definite Bladerunner feel.

We duck down a skinny stairwell to a restaurant advertising ramen and gyoza. We have inadvertently chosen a vending machine restaurant and tick off another Tokyo experience. You simply select your meal and drinks from the vending machine and hand your tickets over and wait for delivery. I'm sure we ordered two plates of Gyoza but nevermind. We slurp down our ramen and Deaks juggles his gyoza with his chopsticks and before long we are heading for home.

Now we thought we'd been on packed trains in the last coupe of weeks but they weren't even trying. This JR train to Yoyogi was seriously stuffed with humans. It was jam packed at Shibuya and when nobody got off at the next stop, but half a dozen extras got on, this was getting seriously cosy. The cosiness even causing commuters to roll their eyes. A great experience made greater by the fact that it was only a two stop trip for us. We pour out of the carraige at Yoyogi and walk through the light rain home for bed.

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