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Published: January 3rd 2009
Nikko Station
Nikko Station at arrivalI have not written any blogs recently mainly because I have not gone anywhere. So after a long time and many messages from travelblog saying
We want you back I am writing again.
If you wonder at the strange title for the blog, my explanation is as follows. We live in depressing times. It’s a never ending stream of bad news showing neither any signs of slowing down nor changing its course. Factories are on a lay-off sprees, each competing with the other in the daily announcements. As someone recently said
its doom and gloom everywhere To take a holiday in such times can either be stupidity or pure optimism. I would like to think that I suffer from the latter. However I had to identify a place which was economical but still gave the feeling of a getaway. Primarily it had to be something which was very different from the urban jungle that Tokyo has become. The choice fell on Nikko city due to various reasons, some of which will be revealed later in the blog.
Nikko means sunlight in Japanese. Nikko City lies in Tochigi prefecture north of Tokyo. It is close to Tokyo making
Nikko Street
A view of the main street near the station possible same day return journeys. But I wanted a longer break for me and my family.
The Daily Yomiuri( reasonably popular English Newspaper in Japan) carries an advertisement for an Indian style hotel near Nikko City at a place called Chuzenji. I had researched this place a few times and tried to plan a trip during last summer .The reviews over the web are not really flattering but the since it said Indian Style I decided to do it anyway.
The winter holidays have stretched to 9 days in Japan this time. Its the longest that I can remember during my 4 years stay in Japan. It is a boon for stressed out people but also a blessing for factories which are looking to cut down production to cope with the hard times
I called up for reservation at the hotel a week back and was able to get it without any problem(that should have been a warning) Nikko city is connected by the Tobu railways and they operate the local bus services in that region. The ideal method of travel is to take the all Nikko 4 day free pass which allows you one round trip
Statue of Shodo
Shodo Statue at the entrance of the Rinnoji temple from Tokyo to Nikko and unlimited bus rides in and around the Nikko region for 4 days.
The starting point of the journey is the Tobu Asakusa station in Tokyo. There is the option of traveling by JR from Shinjuku station, but Tobu looks attractive primarily due to the 4 day pass. The Tobu travel center is located near the Tobu Asakusa station and the helpful staff(English speaking) guide you in getting the correct pass based on your travel duration. Though I did not check at that time, I believe they can help you in getting hotel reservations .
The Tobu Izezaki line express train from Asakusa station to Tobu Nikko station takes around 2 ½ hours and is covered in the 4 day pass fees which means you do not have to buy a separate ticket. However you have the option of taking an express train by paying the extra surcharge of around 1300 Yens. The train goes through Saitama prefecture and passes the Tobu Zoological park before getting into Tochigi prefecture. The landscape is pretty much unremarkable(at least this time of the year), passing through the normal Japanese countryside(villages, farms and graveyards).The train separates over at Shimoima
Rinnoji temple
A view of the Rinnoji temple station with the first 2 carriages heading for Nikko and the last 4 ones heading for Kinugawa Onsen.
Nikko is a tourist town, and the feeling you get when you walk out of the station is that nothing else happens here. Tourists come and go and the whole area depends on them to keep the city running. The Tobu bus stop is exactly in front of the railway station and being Japan the buses run on time. I took a 2B bus heading for Yumoto onsen, which the hotel had explained would stop in front of the hotel. The journey till now was uneventful, as per plan and it looked to be a comfortable 3 day break.
A journey of a thousand steps starts with a few hiccups I had booked a double room at the Indian style hotel, but when I read the hotel web-site and they stressed too much on the public bath at the hotel, I checked with them whether bath and toilets were attached to the rooms. The staff replied back that bath and toilets were not attached, however if I wanted bath and toilets attached rooms, they had another hotel nearby. So
Five Storied Pagoda
The five storied pagoda after confirming that the other hotel had bath and toilets attached I booked a double room.
The hotel is located near the bus stop called Yubinkyokumane( Before the post office) on the 2B bus heading for the Yumoto onsen. The hotel is around 1 minute walk from the bus stop. The snow covers the sidewalks and walking can be a tricky business. However I reached the hotel after a few near-slips.
Not all that meets your cheap deal seeking eyes and miserly hearts is lawful prize First Surprise: No staff to greet guests at the hotel reception. I called out a few times and then an extremely shabbily dressed person, with clothes caked in dirt came and asked me to take seat. He came back after a few minutes and told me in a strongly Bangla accented Hindi something about toilets and baths not working. I asked him to explain again, and he told me that due to heavy snow the water pipes have frozen and the bath and toilets attached to the rooms don’t work. The alternative was to use the public bath and common toilets which are a good 10 minutes walk from the nearest
Three Monkeys
The story about the 3 monkeys has originated from this temple room.
Problem My vanity does not permit me to bath naked with a bunch of strangers in a public bath.
I don’t fancy walking 10 minutes on a freezing night to take a leak. The next conversation went as follows conversation is as follows
Me: When did the pipes freeze
Him: 2-3 days back
Me: Why was I not informed of this earlier, I had specifically requested for a room with bath and toilet attached.
Him: No answer(Strike 1)
Me: How long will it take to get the pipes working again
Him: I cannot commit anything, it can take 1 day or it can take few days(Strike 2)
Me: Can you help me find another hotel since you screwed up
Him: I cannot do that, and it’s the weather’s fault not mine(Strike 3) Three strikes is out and I decided to either find another hotel or cancel my trip and go back to Tokyo Walking by the lake I found one whose owner tried to fleece me into paying 30000 Yen for one night and found that all other hotels were closed. My guess is that nobody stays by the lake in winter. It
The roaring dragon temple
Lots of strange statues in this temple must get very cold and there is a bone-chilling wind blowing all the time. The other hotels also must be facing the same problem as this one(water pipes freezing) and the owners decide not to be too greedy and shut down the hotels for the season.
There is a small café by the lake and the café owner suggested finding hotels in Nikko. The journey back to Nikko was not pleasant, the possibility of the trip getting cancelled was weighing heavily on my mind. The snow bound slopes which looked beautiful on the way up to Chuzenji looked pretty depressing.
Persistence can make you a very annoying man, but it does deliver the promised land Tobu group runs a tourist information and hotel reservation center at Nikko station. The staff is courteous and efficient. I explained my problem and mentioned my budget for a room. Unfortunately the staff took the complete budget for my family as rate for 1 person and found me a hotel room for that price. I replied that it was too expensive and I was looking for something cheaper. He told me that it was impossible to get rooms at that price during the
Futarasan Shrine
The Futarasan shrine year-end. I keep quiet, he thinks, I keep quiet a little more, he thinks a little more, and then he blinks. He dials another number and there is a hotel room matching my budget.
No boasts of heraldry no pomp of power, just a clean room with a loo and a shower Hotel Viva Nikko is an unpretentious yellow building 3 minutes walk from the Tobu Nikko station. It is run by an old couple who are polite and courteous and try to make foreigners comfortable by using up their limited English vocabulary. The rooms are clean and spacious and probably with more area than an average 1LDK Tokyo apartment. Since it’s a B&B facility, breakfast is free . The hotel did not charge for my 5 year old son, but they ensured that he got breakfast separately. They tried to serve me sausages on the first day but I explained that I was a vegetarian(liar liar), so the next day they served omelet with vegetables.
Hotel Viva Nikko is old and it shows in the peeling wallpaper, but what it lacks in grandeur it makes up in customer service. The couple who run this place
One of the strange statues
There are many such statues in the shrine are exceeding polite and helpful. It is a comfortable place to stay and within walking distance from the Tobu Nikko railway and bus station. The square opposite the Tobu Nikko Station is reasonably lively by the day, tourists arriving by the trains, getting into buses, taxi drivers hustling passengers, eating joints full of tourists. But by 6:30 PM there will be only a few people roaming around and the area gets deserted by 7. The only shops open are an Indian restaurant and a Yakitori shop( it means grilled chicken). Surprisingly both these joints are run by the same group as the one which owns the hotels in Chuzenji. It is owned by somebody from Bangladesh ,who for some reason has invested heavily in the Nikko area. We were the sole customers in the Indian restaurant for dinner on both days I stayed . I am not sure of the purpose of keeping it open in the night. The food is edible at the best and the service is nothing great. The restaurant also serves as a luggage room facility by the day and tourists can drop their luggage for 300 Yen(each baggage) and travel around Nikko area. By looking
Stairs
The long hard climb to Ieyasu's tomb at the volume of customers it is difficult to imagine this restaurant turning great profit and the hotels near Chuzenji lake are mostly deserted, I cannot imagine how the owner manages to keep the establishments running.
To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield The four day All Nikko free pass is a blessing. It allows you to board the bus any number of times within the 4 days. The Tobu buses have the highest frequency during morning hours and connect to most sightseeing places. The ideal method should be to cover the heritage sites around Nikko initially. There are 4 main temples and shrines within walking distance of each other. The Heritage Bus which runs from the Tobu Nikko Station drops you at the Rinnoji shrine near the Shodo statue. After getting a 1000 Yen ticket which covers entrance to all 4 temples and shrines the first temple is the Rinnojo (Sambusutdo). Then after passing the 5 storied pagoda and passing the 3 monkeys, you enter the Toshogu shrine. Then comes the sleeping cat and the climb to Ieyesu’s tomb. After covering that comes the Yakusido or the Roaring dragon. Exiting this place
Ieyasu's tomb
This is what we find after climbing 500 you come to the Futarasan shrine. The Taiyuin is a mausoleum of the third Shogun Tokugawa Iemetsu and is the last of the 4 temples and shrines in that area.
There is a statue of the sleeping cat in the Toshogu shrine and is considered to be a famous sculpture of the shrine. Despite multiple attempts I was not able to capture a picture of the sleeping cat statue. The lighting was bad and the statue is small and located at an elevation. The shrine of Ieyasu Tokugawa is located on hill above the Toshogu shrine . To access it one needs to climb for around 15 minutes and if you are of weak heart or unsteady legs it is not recommended. Another interesting aspect is the statue of 3 monkeys which signifies Speak, hear or see no evil. The legend of the 3 monkeys is said to have originated here. There are other status of monkeys with stories attached to each one. I am not going to go too much into that detail. But the atmosphere is serene and you can walk at your own pace without any hurry. The place is peaceful, the tourists are quiet and
Wishes on pieces of paper tied together
If wishes were horses this would be a stampede the atmosphere gives you enough space to be at peace. Even though other attractions are located around this place, but walking for around 3 hours is tiring and it is recommended to rest at some place before continuing the excursion. Our limitation of eating only vegetarian food ensures that we head back to the Tobu Nikko Station and eat at the joint serving Indian food.
The standard food at any Indian restaurant in Japan is Nan and curry. The vegetarian option is vegetable curry, which is basically boiled vegetables put in curry gravy. After eating the same stuff it becomes a bit of a torture, but it is better tha nothing. After lunch we decided to head for the Chuzenji lake.
On the way to Chuzenji falls by the bus, there is a mid point stop called Akechidaira. There is a ropeway which goes to the Irozahaka mountain top from where there is a view of Chuzenji lake, Mt Nantai and parts of Nikko City. The ropeway journey lasts only a few minutes and is a bit of a disappointment. The ropeway cable car is small and can seat around 6 people. Since the journey is short, standing is also
Rinnoji Temple
The Rinnoji temple(Taiyuin) allowed and around 8-10 people can be accommodated. The ride is not spectacular and can definitely be given a miss.
Even though the Chuzenji lake-side was the site of our misadventure the previous day, the place has fresh snow and because it is not too popular during winters most of the snow is unspoiled. My son wanted to have snowball fights and build a snowman and the shores of Lake Chuzenji are ideal. Fresh and clean powdered snow is ideal for snow fights and we had our fare share of it. There is a waterfall called Kegon falls located 5 minutes from the Chuzenji station. It can be viewed at various levels since an elevator facility is located. The elevator takes you 100 metres down near to the base of the waterfall.
Winter is not an ideal time to explore the natural beauty of Nikko. The best season is Autumn. My guess is that most of the tourist crowd limits itself to the onsens(natural hot-springs) around the region. It is a Japanese tradition to soak in Onsen , drink beer and eat the local delicacies. The exploring in winter is left to western backpackers and people like me looking out
The Ropeway
View of the other cable cards from the ropway for cheap deals . After viewing Kegon falls it was time to head back to the hotel to rest the aching legs and dry out wet shoes and socks. Few hours rest in the hotel and then dinner at the Indian food joint and off to sleep.
The next day was our last day Nikko city and we decided to cover the areas nearby Tobu Nikko station. The Shinkyo (sacred)d bridge is around a 5 minutes bus ride from the station. The pamphlet handed to me by the polite lady who mans the ticket booth mention it as
a red-lacquered bridge crossing the River Daiya at the en trance of the Nikko mountain area. The bridge used to be known as Yamasufe-no-Jabashi(Bridge of snakes with Wild sedges) Legend has it that when Shodo Shonin and ten of his disciples attempted to explore the Nikko mountain area in 767 AD, they were halted by the River Daiya. The current was strong and there was no bridge by which to cross. Shodo Shonin began to pray fervently and his prayers were answered by the god Jinja Dajo, who appeared carrying red and blue snakes. He threw these across the river, and View from the top of Irozahaka mountain
You can see the Chuzenji lake in the background they twined together , forming a bridge.
There is a small fees for walking on the bridge but most tourists avoid it and are content with taking pictures from the outside. I decided to pay the fees and walk on the bridge. It is a unique structure and gives a good view of the Daiya river. Having a legend attached to it makes it even more interesting.
The backpackers mostly walk along the river Daiya passing the Shinko Church or more formally known as the Episcopal Church of Japan. The main attraction of the Church is the stained glass windows . The Reverend was on vacation so our view was limited to the outside. The Reverend’s house is located behind the Church , since I did not want to invade their privacy, I did not venture into the garden. I unfortunately forgot to get any more details of the Church and will not be able to provide them here One can walk further to the Hachiman shrine and to the graves of the self-immolation victims(no idea why they immolated themselves) . But I decided to give this a miss and return to the Shinkyo bridge.
During my numerous
Mt Nantai
Mt Nantai peak as seen from Irozahaka peak. bus journeys to and from Chuzenji I could make out a sign in front of a restaurant mentioning
vegetarians welcome. To reach this place one needs to get down at the Shinkyo bus stop and walk back towards Nikko station for around 2 minutes. The restaurant is on the right side with large handwritten signs pasted on the windows. The place is named Hippari Tako(to pull a kite).The restaurant is small and can can seat around 10-12 people at a time. It is run by Miki San who provides food and warm hospitality. The menu is simple and the food decent, but it scores highly on customer service. Miki San and another old lady take their time in preparing food. The walls and roof of this joint are covered with messages written on paper slips, currency notes, visiting cards from customers over the last 10 years. I strongly recommend this place not just for the food but for the experience. Japanese food cooked vegetarian style and served with lots of warmth.
The lunch was the last experience of the day and we headed back to Nikko to catch the train back to Tokyo. Since it was New Years
Chuzenji Lake
The lake with the mod-afternoon sun as the background eve, I did not want to get caught in any possible passenger rush. But as usual the journey was unhurried, comfortable.
If I look back at my Nikko trip, and take away the hotel misadventure, everything has a lot of warmth associated with it. This is a tourist town with which still has not lost it innocence. The sunlight town is full of kindness and is a soothing getaway from the Tokyo urban jungle. Rivers, streams, waterfalls, lakes, forests and ancient temples and lots of peace of mind. Accessible from Tokyo through normal trains(not the expensive fast ones)with all the conveniences of a tourist towns without getting troubled by excess of mankind.
These may be times of doom and gloom, but the sunlight town does not burn your pocket ,relaxes you and prepares for the tough times ahead. My benchmark for whether a thing is good or not is whether I would like to do it again. It applies to movies, books and travel. I definitely would like to go back to Nikko ,soak in the sunshine, walk along the streets ,explore new places and most important of all just be there.
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apar
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superb
partha , u r gr8 and god lives in details