Skiing, Swimming and Snorkelling - part 1


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February 16th 2020
Published: February 16th 2020
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Suginohara Ski FieldSuginohara Ski FieldSuginohara Ski Field

Up near the top, blue sky day - what else could we ask for!
Having enjoyed a day at Suginohara Ski field last year while staying elsewhere, we eagerly sought a longer visit this year (assuming bodily capabilities).



The 'bodily capabilities' issue arose about a month before departure as Judy experienced a painful inflamed knee issue which was not getting resolved. Just before departing, Judy confided that she doubted she'd get skis on this year!



This year we were joined by one of our children and his family. Adrian had married a Japanese national - Mari - and now have 2 children; Sakura 10 and Jack 7. Though they had visited the snow some years ago for a day, we assumed a prolonged ski holiday would be a novel experience for them.



Having Mari help with accommodation turned out to be a blessing. Mari was able to secure accommodation in a Japanese speaking Guest House (Beeken Lodge) right on the ski slopes so it was ski in-ski out.



As with last year, we flew Gold Coast - Tokyo direct (on February 6th) and after an overnight at Narita airport, took the very fast train to Tokyo and then a Shinkansen to Nagano (close-ish
Snow Dump DaySnow Dump DaySnow Dump Day

With over 300mm of powder overnight - let the fun begin.
to the west coast of Honshu island). From Nagano it was a slow train to the nearest station where we were collected and taken to Beeken Lodge via a stop to collect ski gear.



Though we had a micro sized en-suite, we found it better to use the communal showers and the included Onsen (very big communal bath with very hot water sourced from an underground hot spring).



Overnight there was a quite good powder snow fall to welcome us. After a good days' skiing, the Onsen was invaluable. We all got taken to a restaurant some 6km away to have traditional Japanese food and a few beers. We slept well.



Before departing Oz, we'd paid for Sakura and Jack to attend a full day ski school at Akakura, another resort some 12km away. The four adults were able to ski the many runs. After a few hours, Judy and Mari remained on Green runs while Adrian and Bruce went seeking more challenging slopes. Collecting Sakura and Jack (who advised they had a great day), we all went out for dinner at Akakura. After dinner (and a few good beers) and
From Restaurant area towards Mt MyokoFrom Restaurant area towards Mt MyokoFrom Restaurant area towards Mt Myoko

The wide open runs are a joy.
collecting some groceries, we returned to Beeken. Again, the Onsen was invaluable.



After a snowy day, the third day opened to light cloud and patchy sunshine. 'First Tracks' is valued by experienced skiers as the groomed slopes or fresh snow runs (as the case may be) are always super enjoyable. With no additional snowfall, the tracks were super fast. Bruce (especially) loved the opportunity to act like a kid again and just 'go for it'. Mari had to meet up with friends so Bruce took Sakura and Jack with him. After 2 days of lessons, they were speeding down the 4km slopes faster than he. Jack was especially a 'goer', earning the nickname 'Lightning Jack'! While there are many ski runs and lifts on Suginohara, the Red runs (called Blue or 'intermediate' in Oz) associated with the 4km long Gondola were 'magic'. Judy had found skiing wasn't taxing her knee (as she'd assumed) but did prefer to go quietly. The sunny day gave over to heavy cloud about 2pm and the snow returned. Nevertheless, all in all, another great day needing much time in the Onsen.



Tuesday (day 4) opened up to a grey
Looking down the Gondola routeLooking down the Gondola routeLooking down the Gondola route

At about half way up the Gondola ride, the view across the valley is expensive
sky, but over 300mm of fresh powder greeted us. Skiing knee deep in fresh dry powder is an experience we'd only heard about. Today it was our turn! On the top of the Suginohara ski field the snow was so light it couldn't be made into a snow ball. Doing so was like trying to make a ball out of froth! There's no leaning back into one's boots with such powder, it really tests skiing experience. Sadly, Sakura made a wrong move and twisted her knee. She got taken back to Beeken on the Ambulance Skidoo (snow jetski) much to Jack's jealousy. Fortunately, with intense exercise and frequent Onsen immersions, she recovered to ski the next day. After an amazing day skiing, where even Judy caught the 'fun' bug and wanted to ski faster than Bruce (so much for a knee issue), it was back to Beeken and the Onsen. Mari had organised with the Guest House owners (in their 70's) to supply us all dinner. It was great. Mari explained it was a traditional 'home' style meal; rice, piece of fish, some meat, vegetables, Miso soup and condiments. Yum, Yum!



Wednesday opened to blue skies -
Tree runTree runTree run

Many of the Suginohara runs / trails meander through the Fir forests. Here Judy is on her way back to Beeken Lodge.
and hence super fast runs. Again, 'First Tracks' were super enjoyable. With Sakura and Mari deciding to ski later, Adrian, Judy, Bruce and Jack time and again raced each other to the bottom. Later, they all headed to the top run (above the Gondola) and found the 6km length to the Gondola challenged the thigh muscles. By mid afternoon with the warming temperature, the snow became sloppy and so it was an early finish.



Thursday was departure day. The guest house owners had offered to drive us to Nagano (as their driver had to collect goods) so we left early (7:30am) in light rain. As it happened, 2020 was the worst ski season Japan had experienced. In Suginohara village, instead of the 2 - 3 metres of snow on the ground, it was less than a metre. We were so lucky that a good snowfall had occurred a few days prior to our arrival, coupled with a couple of good dumps while we were there made the rain appear as though there was little fun to be had thereafter. Clearly, we were blessed.



Nagano is an important city. Though not large by Japan standards,
Ski Lodge areaSki Lodge areaSki Lodge area

Beeken Lodge is behind the tree in the centre
it has held a central position since fuedal times. As is often the case, the seat of power typically has an important church/temple/mosque/etc. The buddhist Temple of Zenko-ji in Nagano is no exception. Judy and Bruce had previously visited it and wanted Mari, Sakura and Jack to also enjoy. By the time of arrival, the cold temp was accompanied by a clear blue sky. One of the joys of the temple are the garden area. The Camellia's had started to bloom, signalling Spring is about to commence.



After a delightful lunch in a 'hole in the wall' restaurant, we took the Shinkansen to Tokyo (80 minutes). Our destination was Ikebukuro (near Shinjuku). There is something special about the 'busy' centres like Ikebukuro, Shinjuku and Shibuya. This area at night is full of lights, people enjoying themselves because of the plethora of bars, restaurants, nightclubs and shopping. It's like one is immersed in a big buzz of options. While walking to the bar of interest (craft beer), the walkway was lit up with heaps of 'fairy' lights, and the Sakura (Cherry) trees had burst into flower (6 weeks early). Sakura was delighted.



After a Wagyu
Wide angle vistaWide angle vistaWide angle vista

Suginohara IS fun.
dinner and a good sleep (but no Onsen), it was back to Narita airport to await our flight to the next leg of our journey - Manila.


Additional photos below
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Wide open runsWide open runs
Wide open runs

As well as many run options, Suginohara offers many wide open runs.


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