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Published: October 11th 2012
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Three trains from Takayama and we arrived at Kinosaki by 3pm. There are so many different types of trains on the JR network, that it's easy to go all trainspotterish on each leg of a journey. The one from Takayama to Nagoya was pretty cool - we were in the first carriage and the wall between the driver and us was glass, so we could see what the driver could. That trip was highly entertaining. We are also very fascinated by the hand signals of the conductors on the platforms. As the train pulls into the platform and as it leaves, they perform a routine which wouldn't be out of place on a magician's stage. Maybe it's the gloves?
Kinosaki is an onsen (hot spring) town north of Kyoto, on the coast. We stayed in a traditional ryokan and it was lovely. The price of the accommodation included dinner, tickets to all the onsens in town and breakfast. On arrival (after taking off our shoes - we're still getting used to that!), we were shown our traditionally furnished room, kimonos and were given little bags containing tickets and towels. Later on, the lady brought up a kimono for Eleanor. She
Getting dressed
Ready to bathe or eat or go for a stroll... had originally explained that children didn't receive them, but I think she decided Eleanor would fit into one and wanted her to have the experience too.
Strolling around town in our kimonos and wooden thongs was initially uncomfortable, but everyone else was doing it so the awkwardness didn't last long. Dean visited the largest of the public onsens while Eleanor and I walked around town as the sun set. We were quite taken with the little statues along the canal and a very helpful lady tried to explain what they meant. She didn't speak English and we didn't speak Japanese, so the exchange probably looked very comical from afar. Probably more so when she started writing down the meanings. In Japanese. After lots of nodding and smiles from us, she eventually left us to it and we made a hasty retreat back to our room.
In the evening, Eleanor had her 50th ice-cream for the holiday, although at least it was a green tea flavoured soft serve, so I felt she was kind of getting into the spirit of Japan. We had just eaten a banquet dinner which included snow crab, sashimi, mushroom, pickled veges, rice and other
Dressed and ready
Although not excited about public bathing delicacies so I don't know how she fit it in. It was delicious and the only thing we all didn't eat was the cuttlefish. I remembered the texture and taste of it from the sushi we had in Tokyo and the memories weren't wonderful. Best for budgies, I think. After dinner, Dean went to the onsen while Eleanor and I had a walk through this lovely little town and then we dabbled our toes in a couple of the public footbaths.
We must be getting used to the futons because we had a little sleep in. I thought Dean might indulge in one more public bathing ritual but the extra snooze minutes cost him some time. Eating our massive feast of a breakfast
(Lucky Air Asia doesn't weigh passengers yet) after the previous night's dinner was difficult but we somehow fit everything in
. We couldn't not eat the delicious food despite the fact that we really weren't that hungry! Sitting on the floor is certainly a skill that requires years of practise and Dean had to finally admit it was just too uncomfortable for him. We had spent a fair bit of dinner time laughing at his efforts to
cross his legs so we weren't surprised when he ended up in a chair while Eleanor and I contorted ourselves into a pose where we could eat without shifting every few seconds.
Just before checking out we had a family onsen experience. I'm not entirely convinced about them - I like a shower in peace, and without Dean's bubbles.
Caught the train to Kyoto at 10:30am.
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Tracy
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Thoroughly enjoying the blogs Jane. Dean, I have sent a copy of you in the kimono to every footy club in metropolitan Melbourne! Thanks for H.P book, even more jealous now.