Going to Kyoto- Golden Pavellion Temple., Kiyomizudera and siting of Geishas

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5 April 2018

Hakone - Kyoto

Today we were advised to take a bag with 2 days cloths and other requirements. Our big bags were going directly to Osaka and we would get it there only. We were to go by bullet train to Kyoto. The bus dropped us at station. Here they call Shinkan to bullet train. Our number was 10 to 12 in compartment 13/14. We were very worried that what if we can't get in train in time. But the authorities had made arrangements to see that all can get in. We got down at Kyoto. Other bus was waiting there. Today was visit to Golden Pavilion Temple. Then lunch and after lunch visit to Kiyomizu Temple.

From Google :

Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) is a Zen temple in northern Kyoto whose top two floors are completely covered in gold leaf. Formally known as Rokuonji, the temple was the retirement villa of the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, and according to his will it became a Zen temple of the Rinzai sect after his death in 1408. Kinkakuji was the inspiration for the similarly named Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion), built by Yoshimitsu's grandson, Ashikaga Yoshimasa, on the other side of the city a few decades later.

Kinkakuji is an impressive structure built overlooking a large pond, and is the only building left of Yoshimitsu's former retirement complex. It has burned down numerous times throughout its history including twice during the Onin War, a civil war that destroyed much of Kyoto; and once again more recently in 1950 when it was set on fire by a fanatic monk. The present structure was rebuilt in 1955.

Each floor has a different architectural style-

The first floor is built in the Shinden style used for palace buildings during the Heian Period, and with its natural wood pillars and white plaster walls contrasts yet complements the gilded upper stories of the pavilion. Statues of the Shaka Buddha (historical Buddha) and Yoshimitsu are stored in the first floor. Although it is not possible to enter the pavilion, the statues can be viewed from across the pond if you look closely, as the front windows of the first floor are usually kept open.

The second floor is built in the Bukke style used in samurai residences, and has its exterior completely covered in gold leaf. Inside is a seated Kannon Bodhisattva surrounded by statues of the Four Heavenly Kings; however, the statues are not shown to the public.

Finally, the third and uppermost floor is built in the style of a Chinese Zen Hall, is gold plated inside and out, and is capped with a golden phoenix.

The pavillion shines in the sunlight. Its mirror reflection with all the trees in pond looks very beautiful. It is a must visit in Japan. Take picture on any angle and it will be best only.

After viewing Kinkakuji from across the pond, visitors pass by the head priest's former living quarters (hojo) which are known for their painted sliding doors (fusuma), but are not open to the public.

The path once again passes by Kinkakuji from behind then leads through the temple's gardens which have retained their original design from Yoshimitsu's days. The gardens hold a few other spots of interest including Anmintaku Pond that is said to never dry up, and statues that people throw coins at for luck.

Continuing through the garden takes you to the Sekkatei Teahouse, added to Kinkakuji during the Edo Period, before you exit the paid temple area. Outside the exit are souvenir shops, a small tea garden where you can have matcha tea and sweets (500 yen) and Fudo Hall, a small temple hall which houses a statue of Fudo Myoo, one of the Five Wisdom Kings and protector of Buddhism. The statue is said to be carved by Kobo Daishi, one of the most important figures in Japanese religious history. Ringing the big hanging bell is an attraction. A popular stop for people to ring the temple bells, light incense and ask for blessings.

Then we headed towards Gion area where our Indian hotel was located. We got down at a lake from bus. From there we had to walk towards the Indian hotel. The lake is beautiful and cherry blossom of various colors was adding to the beauty. We took photographs. While walking many shops were attracting us towards them. But fear of loosing the way was keeping us on line. We had lunch and again came to the lake point for the bus. On the way we came across a painted building of which we took photos. We reached the lake and our tour guide / leader got a call that one of the group member has come to them as she was left behind. She had gone in toilet and by time she returned, everyone had left. She could not find the way and she preferred to go back to hotel. Maria had to rush back to bring her.

After that we headed towards Kiyomizudera ( literally "Pure Water Temple") is one of the most celebrated temples of Japan. It was founded in 780 on the site of the Otowa Waterfall in the wooded hills east of Kyoto, and derives its name from the fall's pure waters.

The temple was originally associated with the Hosso sect, one of the oldest schools within Japanese Buddhism, but formed its own Kita Hosso sect in 1965. In 1994, the temple was added to the list of UNESCO world heritage sites.

Kiyomizudera's main hall is covered up from February 2017 to March 2020 for the renovation of its roof. Visitors are able to enter the main hall during the renovations.

Kiyomizudera is best known for its wooden stage that juts out from its main hall, 13 meters above the hillside below. The stage affords visitors a nice view of the numerous cherry and maple trees below that erupt in a sea of color in spring and fall, as well as of the city of Kyoto in the distance. The main hall, which together with the stage was built without the use of nails, houses the temple's primary object of worship, a small statue of the eleven faced, thousand armed Kannon.

Behind Kiyomizudera's main hall stands Jishu Shrine, a shrine dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking. In front of the shrine are two stones, placed 18 meters apart. Successfully finding your way from one to the other with your eyes closed is said to bring luck in finding love. You can also have someone guide you from one stone to the other, but that is interpreted to mean that an intermediary will be needed in your love life as well.

The Otowa Waterfall is located at the base of Kiyomizudera's main hall. Its waters are divided into three separate streams, and visitors use cups attached to long poles to drink from them. Each stream's water is said to have a different benefit, namely to cause longevity, success at school and a fortunate love life. However, drinking from all three streams is considered greedy.

Other structures on the spacious temple grounds include the Okunoin Hall, which resembles the main hall on a smaller scale and has also a stage. Near the Okunoin are halls dedicated to Shaka Buddha (the historical Buddha) and Amida Buddha, as well as a small hall with nearly 200 stone statues of Jizo, the protector of children and travelers.

The three-storied Koyasu Pagoda stands among the trees in the far southern end of the temple grounds, and a visit is said to bring about an easy and safe childbirth.

Around the entrance of Kiyomizudera, outside the paid area, stand various other temple buildings, including a vermilion three storied pagoda, a repository for sutras, large entrance gates and the Zuigudo Hall which is dedicated to Buddha's mother and where against a small entrance fee you can wander the pitch black base.

Here also we were give very less time to explore the temples and have to run all time. Much time was wasted so we were just running. But we waited in line of drinking water and Maria had to wait for all of us. But due to that we could not enjoy the shops outside. We had to get through a busy street flanked on both sides by many shops and restaurants. It was hard not to stop at each store which sold so many unique and interesting souvenirs. Various shops with different sweets were there. Also ice cream stalls were inviting us . But The tour organizer was going to give us coffee/ tea/ ice cream so we did not have anything. But alas, they took us to the same spot of afternoon and took us to a tea shop nearby the Indian hotel. Here, after a long wait, we had coffee.

We saw many women here dressed in traditional attires with their colorful kimonos, yukatas (the cotton ones worn during summer) and getas (Japanese footwear). While going in temples they ware traditional dresses.

In the bus, our guide had briefed us about geisha. Those are girls who have adopted this work of entertaining others.. They have to leave their families. Then they are trained by big geisha. How to walk, converse, table manners, dance, singing, making food items they are well trained. In Japan, keeping geisha is considered as a big thing, a prestige. Only rich peoples can afford this. For big deals, or for big visits people take geisha with them. They are trained as to all manners. First they used to paint their teeth black to show that they are different from others. But afterwards they started painting their face white. First lead was used. But due to health problems now they use white powder. So any girl with white face is geisha. Before lunch one itinerary was in our programme Siting of geisha. Maria told us that you may or may not come across those girls. But look for such girls if by chance you can see them. We got down from bus and while crossing the roads our people sited geisha. They were quick to take their photographs too. Opposite the shop where we took coffee were houses of those geisha and we would be going there after taking coffee. Before that at signal, many ladies of our groups saw geisha and we just wondered how they were able to see them. We went to tea house and ordered coffee. After coffee, we started on our way to Nishu area. Here all had gathered to take photos of geisha. Some photographers had put their cameras focused on some houses where they believed geisha will be sited. One thing I did not like. People were running to take photographs / videos of geisha, as if they are tigers/ lions in cage. Our group members were also running to take shooting of those going on roads. Our group leader had told us that people run after them for photos. So they don't go on road but take taxi/ Cars. We spotted one car stopping at a house. Every one gathered there. A lady came out with other lady dressed in kimono with white face. People rushed and took photos in front of her. She sat in car. Still people were rushing and taking photos. I got one photo for my album. Our group members shared their photos on whatsapp. They had spotted many geisha.

Our afternoon hotel for lunch was full. So we headed towards other hotel. This was a chinese resto. Food was good and management was good. After dinner, went to our hotel Hotel Glad one ,Kyoto.

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