Kamakura: a place for surf and day hikes

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Once upon a time on a train to Kamakura, a woman sitting next to me began to strike up a conversation in English. She was middle-aged and timid, but comely. She began to ask me why I was here and told me that she thought the English language was very beautiful, but very hard. I have never heard anyone describe the English language as beautiful, but I agreed it must be difficult to learn. She continued to list all the American musicians and actors that she likes, the few that I could decipher (the letter 'L' is hard to pronounce for Japanese people) included Clint Eastwood, Micheal Jackson, and Kevin Costner. She followed with the statement, "Micheal Jackson dead." I nodded, yes, very dead. When we arrived at Kamakura she insisted on showing me where to connect to my next train even though I knew where I was going, but could not be rude and say so. This is just another example of how helpful random Japanese people can be to tourists. They will go out of their way on the regular, it is unlike any place I have ever experienced. I continued on to Shirichigahama along the beach to check out the possibilities for surf that day. It looked small, but very inviting due to the light wind and gorgeous weather. I couldn't resist, so I made my way to a surf shop called Easy Surf which faces the water to rent a board. The owner did not speak English, but we figured it out eventually and soon enough I was on my way down the street, longboard in hand, ready to get wet. The Shirichigahama/Inamuragasaki section of Kamakura's beaches are a bit more rocky and therefore act more like a reef break than in Yugiahama, which I'd say is beach break. There are a few nicely shaped left breaks for my goofy-footed liking as well. I paddled out to the wave that looked the most promising, which was breaking at no more than knee high. There were about eight other surfers out there so I had to wait my turn, but was able to get a few small rides before the tide got so low that it killed the waves. I was a bit disappointed that I didn't get to have a longer session as I had paid 3000yen to rent the board (about $36) for the day. Every rental shop in the area charges at least 3000yen though, so I couldn't get around the steep price. Easy Surf provided a locker for my personal belongings and even a shower with changing room, plus the board was of good quality, I would definitely rent from there again. Afterwards, I walked along the beach road shortly and stopped at Double Doors Cafe to enjoy lunch on their front porch with ocean view. I had a ginger ale with actual real ginger, the spicy taste was incredible! My delicious lunch consisted of a delicate curry with crunchy vegetables of green, white, red, and yellow varieties along with fresh shrimp, squid, and clam served with a side of rice and pickles. For a while afterwards I sat on the sea wall eating a matcha (green tea) ice cream from the 7-11 store, reading a book of haikus, and watching people get dive-bombed by roving groups of hungry hawks (to which sea gulls pale in comparison).

I made another recent trip to Kamakura to walk along the Kuzuharagoaka hiking course that terminates at a well-known giant Buddha. I began the trail at Jochi Temple after a short walk from the Kitakamakura station. It was immediately clear that Spring was in full swing with the mashing of scents of brightly colored flowers and the array of cheerful bird calls over the wooded path. The sun peeked out from behind the clouds just in time for the beginning of my hike, giving the slightly muddied trail a light-dappled appearance. I made a brief stop at Kuzuharagoaka Shrine to view the gardens and sakura (cherry blossoms) before continuing along to the popular Zeniarai-Benzaiten Shrine where legend has it that washing your money in the natural springs will cause it to multiply. Such things are completely ridiculous to me, so I didn't partake in any money washing, but I did enjoy the really neat koi ponds around the shrine. Continuing along the trail I came across few people and some nice views of the Kamakura coastline before descending to street level where I turned off to Kotokuin Temple which houses the great Buddha. Unfortunately, I was immediately dismayed to see hordes of tourists and school groups. For this reason, I was very glad to have enjoyed the solitude of the trail before coming to this mad house. Cast in the year 1252, the giant Buddha of Kamakura is the second-tallest bronze statue in Japan standing at 43 feet. Perhaps most interesting is the amount of natural disasters (earthquakes and tsunamis) that this statue has withstood over the centuries. Though the Buddha was impressive, I did not linger long amidst the crowds. I spotted a tourist from India in a zen-like pose, making an attempt at some worship, I silently wished him good luck and made my way back through the laid-back streets to Kamakura station.

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