Golden Week in Shikoku (Part 1)


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May 6th 2007
Published: May 6th 2007
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Honshu at our heelsHonshu at our heelsHonshu at our heels

This is the Naruto bridge that connects Awaji Island and Shikoku.
My travel buddy:

I met Barrie in December through a mutual friend.
I saw him again at work a couple of months later.
The combined amount of time that I was in his presence probably amounted to three hours.
So of course he was my obvious choice to spend a week with traveling around Japan.

Thanks to an online community (go Facebook!), the two of us began exchanging pleasantries regarding new work schedules and classes, as well as our plans for Golden Week (national holiday at the end of April/beginning of May). It turned out that we were interested in going to the same place- Shikoku!


Our destination:

Shikoku is Japan's fourth largest island but seems to be generally overlooked by tourists, which is what made it such an attractive destination (especially during a period where almost the whole of Japan is traveling). Shikoku is famous for udon and crab, but more importantly for a ring of eighty-eight temples that mark the journey of a Buddhist Saint as he wandered in search of enlightenment. Kobo Daishi is one of the most famous figures in Japanese history. Born on Shikoku in 774, he was expected to
Wild waterWild waterWild water

The view from the observation deck on the bridge.
become a court official but ended up leaving college (to the dismay of his parents) to become an ascetic. He wandered around Shikoku for seven years, studying Buddhist scripture and begging for food. He eventually founded the Shingon Buddhist monastery on Mt. Koya (on the main island of Honshu), which is now known as Koyasan. The seven-hundred mile trek that begins in Koyasan and visits each of the eighty-eight temples is Japan's most famous pilgrimage. Many Japanese go on this pilgrimage once they've retired, as it can take up to a couple months to do. I should probably mention that the elderly population in Japan has to be one of the fittest in the world! It's more than a bit embarrassing when you're getting smoked on hikes by a bunch of little old ladies!


Part 1 - Kobe to Takamatsu:

We caught a bus to Shikoku on Monday morning, making a brief stop in Naruto to see the whirlpools. There is a narrow straight that runs between Awaji Island and Shikoku that connects the Inland Sea with the Pacific Ocean. About four times a day large amounts of water rush in and out, creating massive tidal whirlpools.
Welcome to the real JapanWelcome to the real JapanWelcome to the real Japan

Train tracks and rice patties
It was pretty interesting, but I enjoyed the people-watching opportunity much more than the rushing water.

Next on the agenda was Takamatsu. On our first night there we just grabbed some dinner and proceeded to pass out early, as we had both stayed up late on Sunday night. On Tuesday though, we managed to see one of the top gardens in Japan, Ritsurinkoen, as well as two of the most famous of the eighty-eight temples, Zentsuji and Kompirasan. Zentsuji is where Kobo Daishi was born. It's pretty standard as temples go here, except for one thing -- there is an underground maze beneath the main temple! You have to keep your left hand on the wall as you walk through the maze in complete darkness. This serves two purposes: to help you find your way and to "read" the story of Kobo Daishi's life that has been carved into the wall.

Kompirasan was a shrine to seafarers before Kobo Daishi chose it as a site for one of his temples. It's a magnificent place, but to get to the innermost shrine you have to climb up 1300+ steps! The view at the top was completely worth it though.
First class all the wayFirst class all the wayFirst class all the way

Traveling on trains with only one car
Poor Barrie actually has a weak lung, but he made it to the top and never complained once.


After our day of sightseeing, we met up with Barrie's childhood friend Adam for a tour of the city. Adam's been living and teaching English in Takamatsu for two years now. We stayed out with him and his friends until late, but somehow managed to catch an early morning ferry out to a tiny island called Naoshima.... (to be continued)


Additional photos below
Photos: 22, Displayed: 22


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RitsurinkoenRitsurinkoen
Ritsurinkoen

The famous gardens in Takamatsu
Gorgeous dayGorgeous day
Gorgeous day

Ritsurinkoen
Statues at ZentsujiStatues at Zentsuji
Statues at Zentsuji

These statues circle the entire perimeter of the grounds. Each one is unique!
One of these things is not like the other.. One of these things is not like the other..
One of these things is not like the other..

Exactly what you'd expect at the birthplace of a Japanese holy figure...
Kobo DaishiKobo Daishi
Kobo Daishi

Statue at Zentsuji
Well howdy there pilgrim!Well howdy there pilgrim!
Well howdy there pilgrim!

A man wearing the traditional pilgrimage garb. The staff is supposed to represent Kobo Daishi (he walks with you and supports you on the journey).
It's only up from hereIt's only up from here
It's only up from here

The very beginning of the climb up to Kompirasan
The entranceThe entrance
The entrance

Kompirasan
A short reprieve from climbingA short reprieve from climbing
A short reprieve from climbing

However you can see more steps up ahead!
Barrie trying to purify himselfBarrie trying to purify himself
Barrie trying to purify himself

But there is only so much water...
We made it!We made it!
We made it!

The shrine at the top
Old school signageOld school signage
Old school signage

After all the crazy mechanical signs they have in Osaka, it's nice to see such a low-tech display. It's sort of like the country cousin of Shinsaibashi's big crab.


18th May 2007

Alyssa darlin'. Quit runnin' around in the Far East and come back to Austin, Texas baby!!! -Troy
18th May 2007

Amazed
Alyssa- you amaze us with your spirit of adventure and exploring spirit. We enjoy and appreciate you sharing adventures we will never have - vicarious enjoyment for all of us with pictures always an added bonus. We love you and miss you. Thank you for sharing with us. You take care as you are family!
24th May 2007

you silly
Thanks for making your comments hilarious. Glad to see your sense of humor is intact. I miss you.

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