Theres something fishy about Hokkaido!


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June 11th 2008
Published: June 11th 2008
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Hakodate morningHakodate morningHakodate morning

Note the name of this boat is the KOTUKU, how coincidental of NZ is that!
Hakodate's Aqua garden hotel proved another sterile nights sleep, and the dawn brighter and warmer than the night before, in fact almost mistless!

I got up early and went to the fish markets, catching some interesting locals selling crabs and anything thst lives in the briney. The whole of Hakodate along the pier stank, and was frequented by large crows and seagulls, obviously in seagull heaven! I had visions of a Rockhampton experience all over again where, in September or spring for us southern hemispehere'ers, they get a little amorous, and try it on with anything black or shiney, like a helmet or cap.

I also had visions of Alfred Hitchcocks 'the Birds' that I nearly took respite in a telephone booth to see if it really is like in the movies.....

So back in time to get aboard a train bound for Wakkanai, and early one at that, departing the very modern JR hakodate station at 830am. It was sardine style for part of it, mainly with business folk and the odd retiree yet again. I am the lone foreigner on most occasions, and the further north I went, the more unusual the looks I seemed to
Mt Hakodate and pierMt Hakodate and pierMt Hakodate and pier

Seaside port town with many a fishy goings on...
attract with my house on my back, and my day belongings on my front!! The japanese do not seem to do low budget backpacking in my experience, its all about the bus tour or the modes of transport! I got chatting to my adopted obaasan on the train, who i found out has 3 grandkids, and 2 kids who are 49 and 55, one being a doctor, you know. She was a retired nurse and very curious about my travels. She then returned to me taking photos out of the window in the vestibule to take one of me on her mobile phone, for her family. So I just had to reciprocate...I cannot be the only one for use as a 'show and tell'!

After a brief 40min overlay in Sapporo, where I got to see some Uni life at the esteemed Hokaido University, which is only 5 mins walk away fromれ the rail station, it was a long 5.5 hr haul up to Wakkanai on the limited express......this basically means it doesn't stop everywhere, but every 2nd where instead....still it is the only connection the provincial places have with the rest of the island in these parts, and
Anyone for crabs?Anyone for crabs?Anyone for crabs?

Hakodate cuisine, going cheap at 4000 yen (thats nearly about 50 NZD!)
we passed many service towns on the way up. The scenery in parts was rolling, plains and as you head north, gets more bleak and windblown. Low valleys with wide rivers are plenty, and always lush greenery....I have not ever seen a dry part except partly in northern Honshuu when I first started this trip. Now it is the wet season, I am sure it has changed!! It began raining as we approached the final hr on the train, and added to the atmosphere of a moody seaside village akin to northern Wales (now theres a pun! Whales!!!!) or england/ scotland, or even closer to home, BLUFF! Contrary to what I previously thought, it was not the Gore of Japan.

After chatting to some older ladies out on a holiday together (they had come all the way from Okayama nr Shikoku!), I decided to check in to the Saiyate ryokan. At only 4000yen this was on par with a hostel far away from the station, and got my vote for proximity, convenience, friendliness, and cost! My hosts were very welcoming, ushering me to a room immediately which I could choose, and then supplying the usual green tea, hot water, and how to use the bath.

Being only 630pm and still light, I headed out for some supermarket shopping, 2 mins away, plus a bit of a wander downtown.........many russian signs, tulips in the mainstreet, ugly government buildings with lovely gardens, and I even stumbled across Wakkanai park and a....TEMPLE, funny that! I have figured out the light thing...there is no daylight saving.

I have also figured out the wobbly ness I that has returned since all this long travel....it was not Shoochu liqueur that made me unbalanced in Nagasaki, its the constant lulling of the train carriage. Up to 9 hrs a day has got to have some effect!

So after some night pics in Wakkanai, I settled in again for another ryokan experience, and enjoyed my generous hosts hospitality, such that they gave me loads of japanesesweets for my long journey ahead today. Plus the constant Ojigis (bowing) highlights the value of being an Okaykusan (guest!).

Morning in Wakkanai was brilliantly sunny and apart from a light cooling breeze, got to 16C today. being coastal it is cooler than onland areas 1 hr away, which get to 26-27C. I made the pilgramage to Cape
my adopted obaasanmy adopted obaasanmy adopted obaasan

This retired nurse with two kids and 3 grandkids appeared to take a shine to me, and I just had to reciprocate!
Noshappu, 30 min walk or 20 min jog away flat along the promenade. It was awesome to be at the very top, although Cape Soya nearby is also the top I didn't venture the 32km out there. The swimming was out though as I had intended, and so was content to touch it the night before....and I intend to touch the sea here in Abashiri tomorrow morning too if the wet clears up. But even if the weather is not, I gotta make the best of a bad and just do it!!

So Wakkanai to Abashiri was a hell of a trip...express plus local plus express trains over 9 hrs, with small stops in provincial holes with friendly locals and dead streets. I had the longest stop in Asahikawa and thought I'd scout for info on my next destinations. One of the older male staff had been to Oz, and hence was very intrigued about NZ, as well as the usual am I single? married? and what do I do?....if someone mistakes me for an American again I will almost scream! The train conductors that carried us here even gave me a good photo opportunity, the one I really
Hokkaido Uni lifeHokkaido Uni lifeHokkaido Uni life

and eclectic mix of fashionable and earthy japanese attend this agriculturally blessed university
wanted...............a waving uniformed conductor from a single carriage, which took us for a 3 hr plus trip half way back from Wakkanai. Arigatoo gozaimasu guys!!

So me and my freind 'T.Rain-san' are getting along without wasuremono hiccups (thats lost goods!) with a little checking paranoia to keep any hiccups at bay, but am loving seeing a different area each day. I have now entered Asahikawa and Abashiri prefectures on the far east of Hokkaido, renound for excellent skiing, cross and alpine, hiking, quality fresh produce, and the indigenous Ainu people. I have seen the odd different face on the train that you just suspect they are derived in a different way...anthropology is so interesting! i shall have to sit next to a sociology professor next time I travel by densha!!

Well the eyes are weary. Tomorrow is another biggy, heading to Furano prefecture for some hiking (the last!!) and a high quality mountain onsen to RELAX!! The end to my rail pass is nigh on saturday when I make the long haul back to see Chihiro and family, where has the past 2.5 wks gone!
Until then..



Additional photos below
Photos: 21, Displayed: 21


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seaside wakkanaiseaside wakkanai
seaside wakkanai

en route by promendade to Cape Nosshapu
kelp gatheringkelp gathering
kelp gathering

so this is how it gets from beach to packet at tai Ping in Northcote?
Cape NosshapuCape Nosshapu
Cape Nosshapu

I made it to the top! At the same time, I am making friends with the Nosshapu version of Opo, attempting to save them from the fate of surimi mix at the local 7 11 CONBENIENSU STOORU, or worse, canned fish factory!
smell a netsmell a net
smell a net

If this was smell-a-internet you would get a REAL feel for Wakkanai, not to mention Hakodate and any coastal fishing village in between!
Mt ReshiriMt Reshiri
Mt Reshiri

offshore volcanic paradise, ht 1750m approx. active volcanoe.
birds eye viewbirds eye view
birds eye view

concrete plus salty air plus fishy smells equals seagull paradise
Hakodate homesHakodate homes
Hakodate homes

Its a poor and smelly life for some fishing folk, if you venture beyond the guide map...
going up!going up!
going up!

Northward scenery beyond Sapporo
signs of russia are nearsigns of russia are near
signs of russia are near

tri-lingual signage is everywhere here! Eigo, nihongo and russia-go!!


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