The time came to leave East Timor and head into Indonesia. As it happens, Rita from the backpackers' hostel in Dili has a brother at university in Kupang, so she insisted I should stay with him - and while I was at it could I deliver some coffee and money to him from her. Rita was lovely all the way through my stay - really friendly and chatty. So I set off for the 12 hour trip to Kupang. The road is twisty and half-blocked by rockfalls in places (a hazard of the wet season), so it's a long slow haul, but the bus was comfortable enough and not full, so there was plenty of room to stretch out. I had lunch with a couple of Congolese peacekeepers on the way (they were heading to Kupang
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