The Motorcycle Diaries - Part 1

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Greetings from the road!

As the title of this latest blog would suggest, I have finally moved on from Kuta, Lombok; not permanently though, mind, I intend to head back there in ten days or so for a final week of surf before leaving Indonesia. I am now on Sumbawa, the next island east after Lombok. I'm spending tonight in Sape, the tiny port town on the very east of the island, before taking a nine hour ferry to Flores, an island still further east, tomorrow.

The title of the blog should also give some indication as to how I made it out here...yes indeed, by motorcycle. Readers of Simon's original SE Asia blog will be aware that my debut motorbiking appearance ended less than ideally, with a small crash into an inconveniently located wall. Needless to say I have thus been driving very carefully, or hati-hati as the locals would say. In fact, there's no other way to drive, regardless of previous experience - the roads are, more or less, MENTAL. Since my Bahasa Indonesia still isn't great, I have no idea what the Indonesian Highway Code reads like. However, based on experience, I would guess it looks something like this:

1. You must be at least 8 years old to drive a motorcycle.
2. The number of passengers your motorbike may carry is limited only by your own creativity. A family of 6 on one vehicle is perfectly acceptable (true story).
3. When driving, be aware that the road is also home to dogs, chickens, buffalo, goats, lizards and snakes. Also, the central reservation of a dual carriageway is a perfectly acceptable, and normal, place for farmers to graze cattle.
4. The most important part of any vehicle is the horn. Use this liberally. In fact, why not assume that everyone else on the road is blind and that traffic in both directions should be audibly warned that you are passing?
5. Remembering to signal is hard, so don't worry if you forget. Indeed, should you manage to remember to use your indicator correctly, feel free to leave it on for the next few miles to celebrate.
6. Roundabouts are for decorative purposes only. Treat them just like t-junctions; if you are going left, traverse clockwise, if right, anticlockwise. If you happen to be going straight over, the choice is yours!

OK, maybe I'm exaggerating a little. Only a little though.

Nonetheless, the last few days of traveling have been a tough but incredibly enjoyable experience. From Kuta, I traveled to a small village called Tetebatu, still on Lombok, as much to break up the journey as anything else. There wasn't a lot there and so I left at 7 am the next morning, catching some magnificent views of Mount Rinjani (Indonesia'a second highest volcano at 3726m) as I did. I jumped on a ferry at Labuhan and had arrived on Sumbawa by 11 am. I decided first to head south, to Maluk, a popular surfing area. I even had the vague notion of potentially spending a couple of days here, before heading off east. However, it was on this relatively short journey that I realised just how big Sumbawa is - much, much bigger than Lombok or Bali, for instance. My optimistic plans of taking just two weeks to get out to halfway across Flores and back were quickly shown to be just that. Furthermore, Maluk was literally deserted. Miles and miles of pounding surf, gorgeous beaches and not a soul on them.

It was therefore with a sense of disappointment that I spent my first night on Sumbawa; I had left some real friends behind in Kuta to come out here, only to find myself alone, once again, with my wonderful idea of a trip crumbling around me. I admit I almost considered heading straight back there the next day.

However, I didn't. I reasoned that, since I was on Sumbawa already, I might as well see just how tough riding across it was going to be. I got up at sunrise the following day and journeyed for 10 hours, making it from the southwest tip of the island to Dompu, a town in the north east. Pretty good going, by all accounts. I don't intend to get back on a bike for that length of time at any point in the near future though. I arrived, with a face covered in dust, sunburned arms and legs and my whole body aching. Maybe such journeys in the Western world aren't too bad but out here, with roads that can be more pot-holed than not and bends that sweep you up round the shoulders of extinct volcanoes, they are punishing. I crashed out at about 7pm last night and slept solidly for almost twelve hours. From Dompu, it was a (relatively) short 3 hour jaunt to Sape, where I arrived at 10 30 this morning.

It was indeed tough. But at the same time...an amazing experience. The scenery can be breathtaking; rolling coastline backed by huge, tree covered volcanoes gives way to wide valleys divided into bright green rice-terraces. And Sumbawa is really remote, totally removed from it's neighbour, Lombok. Every town I drove through prompted shouts of 'Hello, Mister,' while most transactions, for food and fuel, have to be carried out in sign-language, since very little English is spoken. People honk their horns every time they drive past me, and more than a few accomplished motorcyclists have slowed down along side to try and have a conversation. I only wish I was comfortable enough to give the road anything but my full attention!

I should also relate a 'near miss' I had at lunch yesterday. I stopped at a small roadside warung and ordered sate ayam, grilled chicken served with rice in a peanut sauce. I had just sat down when the owner said something in Bahasa and pointed at a big silver pot. I worked out she was asking if I wanted my rice served with whatever was in the pot. Almost saying yes straight away, for some reason I checked myself and went over to have a look first. A somewhat fortunate decision, since pulling back the lid revealed a full goat's skull, teeth and all, bubbling away merrily in what I assume was a kind of stock or soup. I didn't know the Indonesian for 'I think I'll pass, thanks,' so I vigorously shook my head. Maybe on the way back.

As I mentioned above, my original plan was to journey all the way out to halfway across Flores, to a volcano called Mount Kelimutu. I'm fairly sure that on the timescale I have, that will be impossible. I therefore don't really know what I plan to do for the next week, before I begin the long drive back to Kuta. Visiting Komodo is a definite - this island lies between Sumbawa and Flores and can be visited in a two day trip from Labuabanjo, Flores. Expect a blow-by-blow account of my encounters with the dragons next time. Beyond that...who knows? Just me, my little Honda and the open (very pot-holed) road. Exciting, if uncomfortable, times lie head.

Chris.

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Comments

[mum]

get off your horse and drink your milk!
we watched the top gear episode the other night when they went across bolivia and chile in a range rover a jeep and something else- not nearly an endurance as your trip sounds!!! how adventerous are you! would love to have seen your dusty face after your 10 hour trek though. did you walk like john wayne when you got off your bike?!! hope the dragons live up to expectation. get that camera clicking! hopefully the journey back wont be as bad- it always takes less time going back! keep safe and drive carefully if possible! mum. xx

[Simon's Grand Parents]

Fantastic Bike trip
Hi Chris we so enjoyed this blog so much, way back in the 60s we lived in Singapore for two and a half years and were keen motorcyclists. Your blog brought it all back, traffic conditions in Singapore in the 60s were very much as you describe in Indonesia to day, "what fun". Sadly back then Indonesia was "off bounds" to all, as a state of war existed between Malaysia (which briefly included Singapore) and Indonesia. Some things have changed for the better then. Soon you will be off for that reunion in Fiji, could be fun, and then its on to Central America. Your "Nannie" has offered Simon some very sound advice for CA I will simply reiterate much the same!! "Stay Safe" and remind Si "CA" is not "Leeds" on a Saturday night Good luck to both, God Bless. N&G R.