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Asia » Indonesia » Maluku April 25th 2019

Vonku pod mrakom. Na terase zjedene keksy, oznamenie, ze tu ostavam este jednu noc. Podla recepcneho kijang do galela by mal chodit i z pred ubytka. Zastavil som troch no ani jeden nesiel, tak isto ani dodavka angkot. Nuz tak pesi busom prechadzam celu jednosmerku co je vlavo od ubytka. Tu sa pytam dvoch domacich co cakali pri ceste, ci galela. Ukazuju na prichadzajuci kijang so zltou spztko (to su oficialny prepravcovia, cervene su statny a cierne obycajny ludia ale i ti funguju ako taxi) Pytam sa na cenu,25k, podla recepcneho mala byt 30k. Este ked som povedal galela tak sa pytal na kontretnu dedinu. Podla mapy pri jazere to mala byt soa sio. Neskor sme sa cestou opat zaplnili. Nesmel chybat vojensky check point aj s gulometom. 25km ubehlo rychlo. Opat dedinky, pobrezie, dobra vozovka ... read more

Asia » Indonesia » Maluku April 18th 2019

Ranajky kupene v blizkom indomarte. Objednany tentoraz gojek a smer letisko. Nasadam na motoku, sup ho do protismeru ale to je tu bezne. Na letisku ma motorkar vyhadzuje na parkovisku pre motorky, tak troska slapania k terminalu. Tu mierim k automatu kde som kupoval letenku. Dnes je tu ina baba, tato trocha vedela ang, resp ju jej kamoska pripravila na to, ze pride bule. Pri check in si vyberam miesto v ulicke, podla planiku to vyzera na plny let. Prechadzam cez security aj s vodou. Na domacich letoch je povolena. Usadzam sa a sledujem na tv bundesligu. Vyber penez v atm a cakanie na let. Z mojej brany odlietaju v rozmedzi 5min dva lety. Sledujem vacsinu ludi a dufam, ze nasadnem do spravneho. Na ploche pred nastupom do busu sa radsej personalu pytam na destinaciu. Potvrdzuju ... read more

Asia » Indonesia » Maluku » Kei Islands December 2nd 2018

It’s a question I’ve been asking myself the past ten days, and I’ve had plenty of time to think about it, with nothing to do but stare idly at the white sandy beach in front of me, with its swaying palms and aquamarine waters. It certainly has the cards for it. A plethora of brilliant beaches that seem to have dropped right out of some glossy travel magazine, offshore coral gardens, dreamy islands, a mini-mini-mini-Raja Ampat in the form of an isle dissected by the turquoise seas and split into a jigsaw puzzle of tiny rocky islets in strange forms and shapes that reflect in the clear blue waters, begging you to swim down one of the secret channels to find out what is hidden there, or to walk on top and look down on the ... read more
Pasir Panjang
Pasir Panjang
Pasir Panjang

Asia » Indonesia » Maluku » Kei Islands November 23rd 2018

Travelling offers all kinds of interesting experiences, like sleeping in a pod hotel at Jakarta Airport for instance. I have never slept in a pod hotel, and since my flight to Ambon had inexplicably been rescheduled to the morning after my arrival in Jakarta, I decided this was the opportunity to try one out. It was a futuristic looking contraption, a square hole in a long row of square holes, dimly lit with blue lighting to give it even more of a science fiction appearance. It reminded me of a morgue, where they slide the bodies into refrigerated lockers. The only difference was that these refrigerated lockers were full of living people, creeping in and out of them, and equipped with screens and mirrors, and mood lighting (I presume the dead have no need of such ... read more
Jakarta
Jakarta
Ambon

Asia » Indonesia » Maluku » Banda Islands October 22nd 2017

Three hundred and fifty years ago New York was still called Nieuw Amsterdam. And three hundred and fifty years ago, the British had a useless speck of an island in the Banda archipelago. Useless though it was, as the Dutch had destroyed all the nutmeg plantations on the island, which was the original reason for the British to set up shop there, it was a bit of thorn in the side of the Dutch who controlled the rest of the islands and thus the lucrative spice trade. The British, basically, were an irritating nuisance, too close for comfort to the important Spice Islands. The Dutch tried to dislodge them several times, when this didn’t work they burned down all the plantations in order to render the island useless, in short they tried everything to get rid ... read more
Ambon
Ambon to Banda
Ambon to Banda

Asia » Indonesia » Maluku » Ambon December 12th 2016

There is a Dutch tinge to Ambon and the surrounding islands. An umbilical cord connecting it with the former colonial power. This umbilical cord takes the form of family. Everybody I meet has an uncle, aunt, nephew, grandfather, brother or sister who lives somewhere in The Netherlands. Names of cities and towns fly by, Frankie who lives in Venlo, Jaap who lives in Almelo, Tony who lives in Amsterdam. Older folk speak Dutch to me spontaneously when I tell them where I am from. For good or for ill, Holland is quite popular out here. Which, if you think about it, is rather strange, seeing the atrocities we committed. The reason so many Moluccans and specifically Ambonese live in Holland has to do, as is often the case, with the past. We have to go back ... read more
Ambon
Ambon
Ambon

Asia » Indonesia » Maluku » Ambon December 30th 2015

Ed eccomi qui ad Ambon seduto al tavolino di un caffe' con una busta di tabacco a buon mercato, carta, penna ed una fumante tazza di pregiatissimo Kopi Luwak; cosi' va la vita nel lontano Oriente, dove con una tazzina di liquido ottenuto dai chicchi di caffe' defecati da un quadrupede ci si puo' bere lo stipendio ricavato da una dura giornata di lavoro di un nativo del posto... Sapore intestinale dolciastro, aromi di animale rinchiuso in gabbia, residui di alimentazione forzata: e comunque non riuscirei a distinguerlo da un Kimbo qualsiasi! Cosi' va la vita nel lontano Oriente... Scappato da Singapore, lasciata con successo Jakarta, quasi alluvionato a Makassar (e scippato miseramente nel bel mezzo dei mari del Sud) il Mercante e' riuscito finalmente a raggiungere le lontane e mitiche terre delle spezie, le Isole ... read more
Pulau Saparua - vista dal vecchio forte olandese
Pattimura, eroe delle Molucche
Isole Banda - Noce moscata rivestita dal Macis

Asia » Indonesia » Maluku » Haruku Island August 8th 2011

This tiny island is in the south part of Moluccas archipelago, located east of Ambon Island and south of Ceram. The postman never rings here. They do have electricity. But form me the hot water springs give more thrills. There is no banks, hotels, museums, supermarket, nor shopping mall. Only time, abundant of them. Spending time on the forest growing nutmeg, hunting wild pigs, looking for shells and fish at low tide. Reading is not a favorite passing time here (I guess literature is discovered when suffering becomes unbearable...). Women are looking for each other lice. Children playing barefoot. Men hanging on the street talking to each other. Is this simplicity enough? For a life time? My ancestors were born and died here. For centuries. I believe that I see less suffering in their faces compared ... read more
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Asia » Indonesia » Maluku » Ambon April 29th 2011

So the morning Emma had been looking forward to had finally come. We hired a bike each to take us to the airport - again one building next to a runway about the width of a dual carriageway.But before this we had to get through checkin. We had read some of the small print on the ticket over the last few days and started worrying over the *no change of name* clause in it. We started to think that the fact our names showed as Friedrich and Christina might cause a problem. As it was a domestic flight our passport shouldn't be needed but so far we usually got more attention at airports than most as we were Bulé (the local word for foreigner which is usually shouted to alert everyone we are in a shop ... read more
Sheer joy
Our friend Phillip
Cramped conditions

Asia » Indonesia » Maluku » Banda Islands April 21st 2011

So we got on our second ever Pelni at about half 12 when the klaxon sounded twice - this was meant to be when there was 1 hour to go before we left. If anyone remembers Emma's reaction to the 3 1/2 day Pelni trip from Lombok to Sulawesi we took on the last trip ( we didn't do a blog but family and friends should remember the look of dread on Emmas face) then you would not be surprised that Emma was not too keen on the next 8-12 hours. The boarding was much more organised than the last one with no big shove to get on but once on we encountered the same problem as last time. Seat/beds were hard to come by and we plunged ever deeper into the huge ex-cruise liner. We ... read more
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