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We were looking forward to a holiday feel in Indonesia after spending the last 6 weeks sleeping in a car round New Zealand and Australia. We landed in Kuta, Bali and got the bus to PadangBai for our journey to Lombok. There we were drinking our cokes and watching the world go by when the boat arrived. Ok, we thought, it doesn't leave for 30 minutes, so we'll walk the 400m no problem. If only it was that easy. We had our first experience of scooter riding, complete with crazed driver, 15kg rucksacks on our back, day bags on the front, no where to hang on and trying to dodge potholes, people and trucks haphazardly parked with their veggies spilling everywhere. All was well as we fell off them and clambered on board.
We found seats in the shade at the back of the boat and settled in for our 5hour journey. We couldn't quite believe it would take that long but once we were out of the harbour and saw the captain and crew tie their fishing lines off the back, we finally understood why covering 25km took that long. The fact the captain was fishing over the
back explains the roundabout route taken. 4.5hours later and still no fish. Just as we were beginning to think there would be no fish supper, they caught 2 big ones which held everyones attention as they flapped and thrashed about the deck with scales and blood flying everywhere. Fish for them, but it took us a while.
We got to Lombok and headed to Kuta in the south, a chillout haven with fantastic surf. The hotels grounds and pool made an excellent haven. Having had our first taste of scooter riding, we thought we'd go one step further and promptly hired one. We headed to a Sasak village with traditional homes and a population of 700 - all related as it doesn't cost 2 water buffalo if you marry family. We then found some gorgeous deserted beaches, but the day went a bit sour when we were bombarded by 10 sarong sellers who didnt take no for an answer. Their polyphonic picture phone ringing halfway through broke the begging illusion for them, so at that point we headed off back to our hotel, or rather haven. Kuta was a beautiful place with some lovely people but if you didn't
buy something from everyone, they hurled abuse and another couple we met got held at knife point until they handed over their money.
We wanted to believe Lombok had better than that so headed to Senggigi in the north from where we got the boat to Gili Trewangan. Cars are banned and the only form of transport being horse drawn carts or heliciopters if you"ve been on the magic mushrooms. It certainly let you know that it's part of the most populous Muslim country in the world with morning prayers being our predawn wake up call. We settled in our little bungalow with seaviews and spent the week snorkelling. We saw turtles nearly everyday, as well as squid, starfish, moray eels, and a plethora of tropical fish. It is all so colourful and the coral so alive that it puts the great barrier reef to shame.
We decided one day to hire bikes and cycle round the island. It's only an 8km roundtrip but just standing still makes you drenched with sweat and the roads were more like sandpits which made staying upright difficult and hardwork! Saying this though, we decided to do it twice, and rewarded ourselves
with a couple of drinks on the beach.
We headed to Gili Meno, 400m away to spend our 7 year anniversary away from the party island, and magic mushroom restaurants. It was billed as a Robinson Crusoe getaway for total tranquility and peace. For our anniversary we had a fresh fish meal on a beach pagoda watching the sunset and the dolphins play.
Coming out of New Zealand here has really let us know we have landed back in cash cow country with a heavy bump. Even a millionaire would not have enough money to calm the hawkers who know perfect English except no. The scams they pull by saying they can't afford boat transport for 9 days after we see them arrive every morning would be very funny if they didn't insult and swear at us when we don't buy their tat. Coming here was worth it for the snorkelling alone, but the appeal of those boat based surfing/snorkelling trips becomes very apparent.
We had time to burn at the end, so headed back to Bali for cheap beer, loud bars and late nights - the inner party animal wants to get out every now and
then...we also missed in their own way, dodging scooters, stray dogs, trying not to step on the offerings laid out every morning to keep bad spirits away, and looking forward to a greater tourist/hawker ratio......hmmmm. So, on our first night we headed out to a bar, which was showing formula 1 during happy hour. After a while, (read: end of happy hour) we got bored and decided to move on. We could hear some distant bass so thought we'd follow our ears to the sure fire party, with it being only 10pm. After 5 minutes of walking we found the source of the bass - the amazing party scene in Kuta Bali, that is......the local launderette!!!!! Still it was nice to see the 70year old ironing away and bopping her head, so with the bass thumping away, we left her to party and headed back to our hotel. All is quiet by 10pm every night, although the chav scene of loitering around outside McDonalds seems to have made its way over here too!
A typical day on the beach wouldn't be so bad, if you didn't get shouted at to buy: ice creams ice creams (they have to say
it twice for some reason), sarongs (that we're already lying on), beach clothes (that no-one wears), magic cigarette boxes (mmm, not sure really), little wood buddha (cute little guy), chess set (for only $1 mind), hats and sunglasses, watches, and the best of all...crossbows (minus the customs clearance papers ofcourse)!
We are looking forward to heading to mainland Malaysia for a couple of weeks of history, culture and more snorkelling before heading to Malaysia Borneo that somehow we have managed to save up money whilst travelling to be able to go to for 3 weeks - we know, how crazy is that? the 3 day jungle tour is booked, and we are just looking for flipflops big enough to scare away the spiders........
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Hannah
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Looking seriously tanned guys! I know what you mean about the hawkers; your experiences of some of the nicest places on earth can be totally ruined by them! The snorkelling and beachy sunsets look amazing though - still jealous! Can't wait to read the next chapter!