In the rain.

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My first impression of Indonesia and Jakarta when we arrived in 1986 was the open concept airport - the walkways connecting the aircraft with the arrival area were all open - to take advantage of the cool breeze. That is a real selling point when you come from a place where snow is on the ground for several months each year. Maybe I was mistaken, but now they are all glassed in and airconditioned. Huge malls and apartment towers have sprung up, just like in any other large city.

They serve A/W Root Beer in frosted mugs (just like they did at home 40 years ago), but they also have 100% halal food (and I don't remember that at home) By the traffic, you would think that everyone is in a hurry, but they listen to mellow western music - No Neil Young distortion and feedback to be heard. Many guys make a comfortable living by blowing a whistle to help cars back out of parking lots into traffic. During prayer time the overflow from the mosque block traffic as they put their prayer mats on the sidewalk and road.

Dispite the western influences there are amazing local crafts (at Sarinah, and lsewhere), traces of the Dutch times (Warehouse built in 1719, the Stadhaus - too many jails, and Sunda Kelpa were gangs still load bags of concrete on boats)

Jakarta is interesting, but upcountry your blood pressure goes down.

Sumatra

We took the ferry from the western tip of Java to the southern tip of Sumatra. The ferry gently rolled side to side in the Sunda Straight, passing islands and boats in the mist. We could not see it, but Krakatau, the volcano erupted on 26 Aug 1883 and put dust in the atmosphere for 3 years. The air was fresh, the towns clean and well swept (compared to Jakarta) and the road wound through the jungle. Kota Bumi is just a small non descript town, with soviet style worker statues in the traffic circle, but I think I will retire there for the relaxing atmosphere. It was the rainy season, and we were under pressure to finish our work, so Indonesia was not looking so relaxing standing in the mud (keeping an eye pealed for leaches) as we worked all night. We were just finishing up at 4 am when we were serenaded by the mosques. I had just got this slick new cell phone (you can check your email anywhere!) which will vibrate as well as ring. The first incoming call came on one of those long nights, and I thought it was my stomach rumbling, forshadowing a trip to the toilet.
Later we took a flight to Medan which is not nearly as interesting as driving. I am reminded of the old Roman statesman as described by Plutarch, who regretted going anywhere by water when he could have gone by land.


Bali was as advertised; Kuta Beach for accomodations, shopping and restaurants, Denpasar for Temples on every street corner. Highlights for the trip (other than just driving around) were two temples; Holy Monkey Forest Sangeh and Tanah Lot - temple by the sea.

Timor
Kupang is laid back, off the beaten track,

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Photos

Sunda Kelpa - Old port of Jakarta
Those planks are huge. Gangs carry bags of concrete and other cargo up one plank, and then come back down the other for another load.

Sunda Kelpa - Old warehouse
Those are large cotter pins holding the floor joists to the wall. Sunda Kelpa is a great place to explore.

Holy Monkey Forest Sangeh
A beautiful forest

Holy Monkey Forest Sangeh
They make a nice couple