sun day 51

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I had heard from some other travellers that to spend one or two days in Jakarta was plenty, so this being my one and only day I headed out to try and find my way round. Walking to the end of the quiet street and turning left onto a very busy road - similar to a dual carriageway there was a market up the side of the pavement. Selling the usual phone accessories and fake tat I was more having to watch my step - the pavements are so dirty with a layer of wet mud across them, rubbish strewn everywhere and people sleeping among large rats running between the sewers ( which are open and producing a terrible smell.) Spotting a shopping mall I headed in for some fresh air and some breakfast. Soon after I began heading to the train station, just partly so I could get my bearings. Spotting my first westerner - theres not many! To ask for directions who was also looking for the train station - we walked together deciding to opt for a taxi instead. North of the city is an area called Kota ( used to be known as Batavia when it was the centre for the Dutch trading empire) my rough guide book mentions the area as being quaint and attractive so a visit was definitely worthwhile. The man I had bumped into was Alexander and he happened to be Dutch - who better to go to a Dutch area with!? Chatting as we walked we headed to Taman Fatahillah the centre square ( similar to a smaller less grand version of Trafalgar square) hundreds of people in the middle surrounded by museums. We headed in the town hall where we had to change our shoes for previously worn flip flops - the building now being a museum to the area. Dutch history doesn't really interest me so whizzing around in 10 minutes I said to alexander I would meet him outside. Walking around the square seeing the street entertainment - some light hearted and funny while some being sad and desperate. I grabbed a drink and had a sit down - soon after about 5 groups of school children approached me wanting to interview me in English - while being videoed! Their English was really good and they were all very endearing - much more fun than a Dutch museum! Walking with Alexander we went to get some lunch and headed off in the direction of the old fishing quarter, passing many Dutch buildings on the way and having my own guide to the area! Walking onwards to a fish market which again was in a filthy, dirty area with the market stalls pretty much surrounding a huge rubbish tip - with people rifling through it - looking for food!? The smell was so pungent - just couldn't get too close to it. Not ever really making it to the harbour front but walking back along the river which again was just littered with so much rubbish and men urinating into it we passed more Dutch buildings and back to the main square. All the historic buildings that we passed were derelict and falling into a complete state of disrepair - windows smashed in and greenery growing from the cracks. Heading back to the train station - found this one! And getting off before Alexander we said our goodbyes and I thanked him for the tour! It was dark and I was tired so I got a motorbike taxi back to the hotel.
Quaint and attractive is really not how I would describe these areas of Jakarta - its sad and is a real shame to see the level of the city's poverty. Even through that the people seem happy, friendly and are often smiling.

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