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Published: August 8th 2017
I did it. I traversed Flores west to east (well, at least until Maumere) without hiring a personal car and driver. That would have cost upwards of US$50 per day. The majority of the travelers I met hired a car and driver. Excluding time spent at the two ends of the journey, the overland journey itself took five days; total distance traveled over the crazy, winding, up and down roads was probably over 350 miles. I took public buses, shared ride vans, bemo, and hitched rides from fellow travelers. Except for the two days getting to Moni and staying in Moni, the entire journey was smooth and very pleasurable. Flores is heart achingly beautiful. The people, other than those I encountered in Moni, are just wonderful. Many people have helped me without asking for anything in return.
Outside of Labuanbajo, Flores is not heavily touristed and tourist infrastructure is minimal. You go with the flow and just trust that things will work out. I have mostly felt taken care of, even in touristy Labuanbajo. There are almost no people harassing you to buy stuff. That is what I dread most about heading back to Bali.
My only regret about
Flores is that I did not visit Riung on the north coast and its islands. A few hardy travelers I met did go there, and they reported enjoying it very much. I just could not stomach a five hour diversion
each way from the main highway on long, winding and badly potholed roads. I also came here wanting to buy an ikat, but I haven't done so. I'm just not feeling it. After a few weeks of living out of a backpack, I realize how little I really need, and that clutter is a big source of stress for me. I need to simplify.
Coconut Garden Beach Resort is exactly what I needed after the stress and hassle of Moni. It bills itself as an eco-resort. I'm often cynical about places which describe themselves as such. The bamboo structures were beautiful and clearly made from sustainable materials, but I question the wisdom of planting impatiens and bougainvillea on a beach, and not having proper drainage in the outdoor showers (it just soaks into the sand, soap and shampoo and all).
The resort is isolated so it has a captive market for meals. The meals were organic and
Coconut Garden Beach Resort
The resort as viewed from the sea.prepared from scratch. Other travelers complained about lack of meat dishes, but I was fine with that as I rarely eat meat. The meals were expensive by Indonesian standards. There isn't much to do other than laze on the beach. It was exactly what I needed. The beach is pretty, the sea is shallow and warm, and the sunsets are spectacular. The other travelers are relaxed, friendly and chatty, but they belong to a more upmarket demographic than most other travelers I have met on the road. They can't seem to relate to what the two Spaniards and I went through before we got to Coconut Garden.
I booked for only one night as this stay was a result of changed plans. It cost way over my budget anyway. I liked it so much that when I checked out at noon I asked the staff if I could stay on the premises until after dinner. They said yes. So, I had another lazy day sitting under the shade, snoozing away all day, and occasionally venturing out into the sea. Bliss.
I left Coconut Garden after dinner and moved to Capa Maumere Resort, the original place I had booked
Capa Resort
Infinity pool and beyond. to recover from the rigors of the cross-Flores trip. I am staying here two nights, although in reality I am just here for under 36 hours. Capa is a nice resort, but there isn't a sandy beach there, just rocks and an infinity pool. I'm glad I'm not spending more time here as it isn't anywhere as captivating as Coconut Garden.
So, where to next? I really want to go to Tana Toraja in South Sulawesi. The Torajans are known for their funeral ceremonies and August is peak funeral season. But, Tana Toraja is a ten hour bus ride from Makassar city up winding mountain roads. I just can't face that right now. The one thing I hated about the trip across Flores was that I had to manage my intake of water in order to not have to go to the bathroom (remember, I was mostly at the mercy of bus drivers' biological and petrol refilling schedules). Before each travel day, I downed over a liter of water before going to bed and didn't drink anything two hours before the bus ride. The enforced dehydration wasn't pleasant as I am one of the most hydrated people
Capa Resort
Fishing boat. you'll ever meet. I'll reserve Tana Toraja for a future trip, along with maybe an overland trip to the Togean Islands.
When I was planning this trip, I emailed Santra Putra, my go to place in Ubud, Bali, to ask if they had rooms available. They replied that they were fully booked for August. Yesterday morning, I emailed them again, and they said they could accommodate me for a week. I am booked to fly into Bali, although my original plan was to look at connecting there to other places. I think the universe is telling me to just go to Bali and enjoy myself there. I'm going to listen this time.
Travel Tip for Flores: The Lonely Planet's Flores chapter isn't particularly comprehensive. Supplement with information from travelfish.org.
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alex waring
Alexander Waring
Enforced dehydration!
Hey! I totally get you on the enforced dehydration for those long bus trips! We are indeed totally at the mercy of those bus drivers for our relief stops! I like to sit close to the driver in case I have to ask him to stop. Also with you on the drinking plenty on non-travel days! Definitely go where the universe takes you! Enjoy Bali :)