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Published: December 17th 2008
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"Where do i catch a bus to Surabaya?", I asked the travel guide at my resort hotel in Legian. "What, you want to go to Surabaya by bus" was the incredulous reply. It seems Bali has become such a world tourist destination that any thought of independent travel is not cool. People fly in and fly out or get on a boat to Lombok. But the idea of catching a bus off the island is so outrageous that it's beyond the comprehension of a hotel travel hostess. Still, I persevered and found out that Ubung bus terminal was the place to get to when it was time to leave. After a week of looking at Kath and Kim's, Aussie beer bellies and sun bleached surfers as well as sunsets on the beach and riding around the laneways, I'd had enough of Bali. Next time I go there, think I will base myself in Ubud and spend more time at Lovina and Candidasa - you may as well be on the Gold Coast as stay in Kuta/Legian/Seminyak. Its ok for a few days but does wear thin. If it wasnt for the cheap motor bike hire and able to ride helmetless down
to the beach, doubt I'd ever go to Bali again.
So many buses to choose from - aircon, reclining seats, toilet. Decided the easiest choice was to get on the first one leaving and we set off towards Gilmanuk through the picturesque countryside. Quick ferry ride across to Java and the landscape changes dramatically - drier and no more Hindu temples, poorer houses and rougher looking people. Its quite a journey to Surabaya, no wonder the travel hostess was a bit concerned but I'd decided Probolinggo was probably far enough for the first day. Made it there by sundown and set out trying to find a reasonable hotel. There is not a lot of choice, despite the fact the town is supposed to cater to travellers heading to Mt Bromo. The mountain wasn't on my itinerary though so next day, headed on into Surabaya.
Its a bustling modern city, doesnt rival Jakarta just yet but is certainly vibrant and growing. No budget hotels but the Sahid, next to the railway station is a good bet, despite some bad reviews. You get a good city skyline view from the high levels and you couldn't get any closer to catch
a train to Yogyajakarta. The one tourist site I really wanted to experience in Surabaya was Doli. Not for any nefarious reason but just to experience what was at one time the largest brothel area in South East Asia. Its situated in a residential area away from the city centre but is easily reached by becak. The place thrives at night with bar after bar down narrow streets and each one offering a selection of 10-20 well fed women. If you want to have a drink in Surabaya, this is the place - lot of drinking partners.
The morning train to Yogya leaves around 7am. With a band playing, the train moves stylishly out of the station and pretty soon, you are out in the rice paddies whistling across country with mountains in the distance on either side. Such a comfortable journey, be it in air con executiv or breezy business class. Because of the stopover in Probo, I had to forego a planned night in Solo - maybe a mistake. But its only 50kms from Yogya so easy to backtrack on a motorbike ride. As you near Yogya and catch the symmetry of Merpati volcano and the cluttered
Riding the laneways
Motorbike cruising in Kuta charm of the river flowing through town, you know immediately why this city has captivated hearts for so many years.
Just opposite the railway station is backpacker central with budget losmen, bar/restaurants and internet cafes. The other good thing is that its just off Maliboro street, the main tourist strip in town. With everything being so handy, we were soon in a hotel with one of the smallest rooms in Indon, hired a motorbike and enjoying a beer. Cruised around town, especially Marlboro street and was all set for a ride out to Borobudur in the morning.
I haven't been to Angkor Wat yet but I understand Borobudur doesn't come close to its magnificence. But I have been to Macchu Picchu and seen the Pyramids and the Acropolis. Its very hard to match those 3 and I guess Angkor Wat is in the same league. Borobudur though is a wonderful monument and is cloaked in mystery. Why was it built, why was it neglected for so many years - surrounded by a mountain vista, it is impressive architecture. The ride out there was easy enough - just up the highway. Returned via a back way through farming villages
Leaving Bali
from Gilmanuk to Java with a bit of adventure crossing a river where the bridge had collapsed. So now, I can cross Borobudur off my historical monument list and concentrate on getting to Angkor Wat.
From Borobudur, I caught a bus to Cilicap with a little bit of apprehension - its Amrozi's home town and he had just been executed a few days earlier. There was no need to worry; the town is quiet and the people friendly - it was just a stopover on way to Pangandaran. The plan had been to catch a boat along the coast to Pangandaran but was talked out of it as the boat doesn't go all the way and you have to continue by bus. So, caught a rough looking mini bus along some pretty terrible roads and made it to Bali on a Budget (Pangandaran) in around 3 hours.
First impressions weren't much chop. The commercial part of town is run down and dirty but you follow a road down to the beach, having to pay and register to get in - something to do with the tsunami that cleaned up the beach area a couple of years ago. The tourist part of town
spreads out along the beach and it begins to absorb you with its laidback ambience after a couple of beers. the sea is rough and not very welcoming, the sand is a dirty brown and pretty unattractive but there are a range of rundown and new hotels culminating in a narrow isthmus of commercial activity near the national park headland. There were a few travellers in town and several orang putih that had settled there so it was easy to settle into the lifestyle of the place. Found a Gaudi style hotel that was a pure delight to stay in - beach view and a miasma of colour. The main tourist attractions in Pangandaran are to walk in the national park and visit Green Canyon. Near Green Canyon, on the coast is a newly developing hideaway backpacker area - quiet but charming.
Two nights wasn't enough but I had a schedule to keep and bussed it off to Bandung - what a dirty hole. Bandung must have been beautiful in the Dutch colonial years; clear mountain air, clean streams - but now. The place is blanketed in smog, full of thieves and vagrants and as dirty as a tramp
- well at least in the centre around Alun Alun. The best thing about Bandung was the road to Jakarta.
Back in the metropolis of SE Asia and headed to Blok M. My wife hadn't been too impressed with Jalan Jaksa when we were last in town. So I figured Blok M would satisfy us both - she can shop in the malls that are springing up everywhere and i could cruise the bars. Besides its so easy to get from Blok M down the khusus (busway) to Plaza Indonesia and Kota areas. There is a new hotel just opened, not far from the Melawai which I recommend totally. Only one year old, very clean and efficiently run. Minimalist style and at 360,000 rupiah with breakfast, good value in this part of town. Its called Amaris.
After a good night out celebrating the end of the trip, headed to the airport for the Air Asia flight to Kuching. A word of warning - departure tax is 100,000 - luckily I still had some rupiah
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