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Published: March 17th 2014
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To avoid arriving Bali during the wee hours of dawn, we broke up our flights with an overnight in Kuala Lumpur. Despite being tired from the rush of leaving Shanghai, we were completely overwhelmed to be back in Southeast Asia: the fragrance of the tropical flowers, the balmy air, the palm trees, geckos, and empty streets. Everything was just so COLORFUL.
We flew into
Denpasar the next day and took a taxi to
Sanur, a 20-minute drive southeast of the capital city. Sanur was a nice little collection of kitsch shops and restaurants stretched along the coastline. There was a relaxed beach scattered with fishing boats where local children splashed around in the shallows. It was the low season, so not a lot of tourist business. We were frequently cornered about taxis and tours as we wandered around.
We didn't do too much in Sanur...the food was good and the vibe was laid back. We spent most of our time either in the pool or on the balcony, looking out over the corrugated roofs , unable to believe our luck. Bali is a legendary tourist destination. I had heard rumors of wild Kuta Beach parties with thumping trance
On the road
Somewhere near Saraya, East Bali and flowing drinks. I'd also heard about the spiritual side made famous by stories like “Eat Pray Love”. Traveler journeys to island and through interactions with spiritual guru finds self. I was excited to get there and see what it was all about.
In the end, I didn't party. I actually found parts of Bali much more rugged and untouched than I had been expecting. The sleek shopping centers, world class spas, clubs, and big-name hotels touted by many haven't reached every corner of the island. And while I left feeling completely refreshed, it wasn't necessarily a spiritual transformation (or was it?) Regardless, there is no doubt that Bali is a very special place. It offers adventure, but also safety and comfort. There really is something for everyone. I imagine that in spite of its small size, everyone who visits the island has a very different experience. Extreme sports? Gastronomy? Nature? Luxury? Art? You name it, Bali has it all.
Our next stop was
Amed. Located on the easternmost claw of the island, Amed is actually a string of villages and guesthouses sprinkled over 10 or more kilometers. It is fairly off the beaten path and
Peaceful
Smiling Buddha Hotel and Restaurant, near Amed not easy to get to on public transport. For the intrepid, it might be possible to take a bemo to Amalpura. There might also be a tourist shuttle, but we couldn't get a clear answer. We opted to take a taxi from Sanur. Expect to pay Rp 40-50,000. The vans are very clean and in nice condition. However, you should clarify the exact name and location of your hotel prior to departure, as it might cost a bit more to travel outside the central Amed area.
We stayed in
Lipah, a little fishing village hugging a crescent of black sand beach. The gradual slope of the water made it great for swimming and there was a coral reef just 20 meters offshore. It was a great place to chill out and just
be. We watched the fishermen come in every evening after a long day, haul their boats on shore, and proceed to grab fishing line to continue their search from the beach. We also got a kick out of the island kids, mostly boys, who entertained themselves for hours with a competition. They would do elaborate flops and somersaults over a “hurdle” (made from a couple
Colorful boats
On the beach in Sanur of broken oars stuck in the sand) into a shallow moat.
Days in Amed could be as lazy or adventurous as you chose. The beach was tranquil and our hotel had a lovely garden bursting with frangipani and hibiscus. (There were also quite a few large jungle spiders; one of which I freed from our room by trapping it in a large mug). We bobbed in the waves, swam in the pool, ate spicy grilled fish, and admired the absolute beauty of the island. It was a true vacation.
We also got out a little bit – first by hiring a fishing boat for a snorkeling trip. We perched on wooden benches in the narrow wooden boat (which reminded me of a Hawaiian outrigger canoe) and sped along the shoreline until we reached the easternmost tip of the island. There was a nice coral garden with clear water – like swimming in a fish tank - and the crusty skeleton of a Japanese ship sunk during WWII. I had never seen a shipwreck before, so it was a very exciting experience. Mostly it was just the old iron bones, broken down and taken over by sea
Loving it!
Outside of Amed in East Bali creatures. There was a school of bright orange fish ogling us from a hole in the gunnel. I suppose for seasoned divers it was fairly run-of-the-mill, but for me it wsa quite romantic.
We also rented scooters and did a big loop around the eastern coast. The scenery was stunning as we passed though small fishing villages and headed into the hills near Saraya. I don’t really feel comfortable taking pictures of people, so I registered a lot of mental snapshots instead: women squatting on the side of the road with buckets of silver mackerel, children squealing and sticking out their hands for high fives, naked bathers in the river, old men stringing out yards of fishing line alongside the road. People were overwhelmingly kind. They smiled and waved, the school kids with their uniforms squealed and shouted HELLO! A nice young man at the gas station in Seraya spent time giving directions – even drawing us a map – and advising us how to best avoid the police that sometimes pull over foreigners for a bribe.
We eventually wound up at the Ujung Water Palace, The grounds had been built in the early
20
th century as a summer home for the king and his family. Everything was destroyed by a volcanic eruption, but rebuilt with the help of UNESCO. It’s a gorgeous place. The main building is set amongst reflecting pools flanked by walking paths and vegetation. If you climb the hill to the pavilion above you can see all the way to the sea.
We loved eastern Bali so much that we contemplated canceling our plans to see the rest of the island and just staying put. While I am thankful that we continued our journey, I could have easily spent an eternity on that beach in Lipah.
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Dancing Dave
David Hooper
LOVELY
Lovely pics as always...this one has a rare subtlety