Kongseong, Darjeeling

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Geo: 22.8369, 87.8906

WB - KURESOENG, DARJEELING 1st May - 4th May 2007

So got overnight train at 10pm on 30th May from Sealdah Station Calcutta to NJP station in Siliguri, Darjeeling. Then its a 2.5 hour up hairpin bends of the himalayan foothills to Darjeeling and an hour short of it is Kureseong where we stayed in the lovely Cochrane Place (not in the Lonely Planet either see www.imperialchai.com). We arrived at Silguri station at 7.52am on the mail train from Calcutta which was 8 mins early and the overnight part was grand, if you book 2nd class A/C you get sheets and pillow and blankets (Lonely Planet says you don't, also they don't mention there actually 1st class too). There was an Indian wedding party in the whole carriage and us whiteys but unlike if this was say an Irish wedding party there was no boisterous drunken shenanigans going on all night, praise be, so uneventful night. But they did trust us with 2 of the younger women in their party to share our 4 berth - even if 1 looked petrified.

So we arrived at the hotel at 1458m elevation on the morning of my birthday and chilled out in our deluxe room (as it was my b'day) til lunch and we even had a visit from a real live white bunny on our veranda, and there was a welcoming teddy bear on the bed called 'Teddy Cochrane' (how did they know I love teddies?). That afternoon we went to a tibetan yellow hat sect monastery called Tashilling and saw Sonada the embalmed mummy of Kaln Rinpoche 11km away after a town called Margaret Hope. We saw the monks chanting - as it was coming up to buddah's birthday too - some of them looked a bit distracted to me. Then we went to see the endangered himalayan salamanders and to a 'square meter' farm called SASAC run by a Canadian jesuit priest to help 16 poor communities learn this type of farming so they can use the land year round and not end up on the streets of Calcutta, as well as doing other charitable works.

While we were out 2 New Zealanders we had met in Calcutta had called in to have b'day drinks but were staying somewhere else in town, and as there was no licenced alcohol in Cochrane we thought we'd go into town after dinner and try and find them. But at about 7.30pm I got a dose of 'Delhi belly' and had to go to bed at 9.30pm (on my b'day!) and was not right again for 48 hours and more (was starting to think I had ameobic dysentry at one point). I think it was cause we ate in a real cheapo place in Calcutta on the 30th. So C. went to town to tell them we'd meet tomorrow (and sadly didn't find them) and when he was gone I left the door open and next thing I knew the management brought me in massive big chocolate birthday cake with my name on and a candle and a guitarist to sing happy birthday - I had to explain I was sick and sorry but take it away. I couldn't even get up as I just had me undies on, how embarassing.

So next day there it was waiting for me at breakfast - I got them to share it out to everyone. Had to take it easy that day but did manage a (sweaty) hill walk down to Ambootia tea factory, but after it closed so it was more for the walk and scenery. But the next we got up at 5am to go on the (unesco) toy steam train which doesn't actually stop for 4 hours so you have to jump off while its moving at the town you want, you know how awkard I am it's a wonder I didn't break an ankle but all was well. We went back to SASAC and met all the kids who are boarders there and they were dotey. The Indian government has stopped funds from Canada coming in so all we could was give some euro (all the charities so far gave receipts bar Mother Teresa's interestingly), these people are good and you feel so useless but throwing money at them can't be all bad can it....

After this at 8am the 4 Bombay media heads who were with us got a lift back to the hotel (wusses) but 'outdoorsy us' and Amar our guide set off on a 20km hike til 4pm that afternoon (me with clenched buttocks!). The first couple of hours trekking up the mountain were the hardest but people live up there and use those tracks daily. Also I was stupidly breathing through my mouth instead of nose so at the altitude I was fecked! Anyway we stopped at a lovely nepali families house for tea etc. who had the cutest baby called Chung (who peed on me) and a third of their house was dedicated to a fairly elaborate buddist shrine. They had a toilet though so I was grand after that (hole in ground but with a porcelain standing bit).

Then we went on a few more kms stopping at the library (on the mountain top with ancient books) and saw SASAC's 2nd farm at the top (7000 ft elevation) which is more fertile land and the area is called 'Chimney' as there was a British barracks there and all that remains now is the chimney . Then we stopped at someone else's shop for tea in a place that was for all the world like the shed we had in our garden at home where me and Fids used to play shop - only their products were real. It was run by a couple with no english but they were lovely to us and wouldn't take any money for the tea as they knew our guide well and also the owner of our hotel.

Then we walked down the mountain (on St. Mary's walking trail) to a deer park that had 2 deer and tonnes of bunnies, the walk was so like being in west or south of Ireland with similiar trees and greenery and cuckoos but a bit more jungley. Then we stopped at a forest museum which was good but weird and had too many stuffed animals. Next we walked all the way back to Kurseong right through from the far side to where we were staying, and met tonnes of people who all said hi and loads of kids in all different school uniforms - big place. Saw the tea pickers including Amar's wife - it's been a bad season as no rain and they get paid by the kilo (narrow chinese leaves are best for Darjeeling tea). Had a mad massage on our return where we were literally beaten (lightly) with a stick.

There was a massive lightening and thunder storm all that night, which was amazing, so I hope the tea grew loads. Only we read later 5 elephants (2 pregnant) were killed by the lightening, oohhh. We also read some deer ate so much cashews they couldn't find enough water and died of dehydration. The last morning was spent by us in the very interesting Makibari tea plantation - first flush has just been harvested and 2nd flush will be on 15th May. 1st flush is best but silver tips is stuff worthy of auction. These guys supply Harrod's. We later had tea at Cochrane Place with some lovely artists from Northern Ireland who have been in Calcutta since Jan. and they filled in us in on their adventures (with a 7 and 9 year old) which was very interesting. So at 5.30pm we headed back to Siliguri down the hairpin road for 2hrs and passed 2 accidents of cars who had overtaken us. Train 8pm-6am again fine, this time shared 4 berth with a 46 & 50 yr old married Indian couple (all our ages were posted in the door). Then 2 more days in humid Kolkata in same hotel 'Fairlawn' where they had the welcome of the world for us....

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