gangotri...


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May 18th 2008
Published: December 16th 2008
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gangotri...
hey everybody!
just got back from the journey of a lifetime and wanted to update everyone. gangotri...seriously one of the best and worst experiences i have had in india.

let me start with the negative...the ride from hell...returning back to india from the backpackers haven of Bagsu. diving in head first...full force. rising before the sun in a deserted Rishikesh to board our 4AM bus. not a soul in sight nor a sound within reachable distance. even the cows and the dogs rest peacefully on the side of the road. climbing aboard a rickety bus packed with all indian men with the exception of one german tourist and two local women.finding our seat and trying to make ourselves comfortable for the upcoming journey. as the time slowly passes, the bus becomes more and more full. but what is full? aisle ways packed, benches overflowing with people, touching skin to skin on all sides, and any personal bubble officially popped. cars, buses, motorcycles, and taxis all rush to wait. a dirt road that seems endless. heading straight onto oncoming traffic, the horns whistles, and yelling intensify. seeming as if there is absolutely no chance for two lanes we reverse, wait, and try again. once again... reverse, wait, and try again until we magically fit. the yelling cheerleader in the seat behind me waves his flag and shouts mantras throughout the entire journey. he also carries two white doves on his shoulder and as we take a break outside, they obviously fly away. as the entire bus waits for the birds to come back, india's true colors and characters are shining brightly. toilet breaks consist of roadside pullovers. although walking down the street with exposed shoulders and chest always attracts attention from sheltered hormones, squatting on the side of the road with your pants down is just part of the norm...no second glance there!trying to use the power of the mind to disconnect myself from the physical discomfort. winding up and down the mountainside that accompanies amazing beauty. barren himalayas full of rocks and separated plots of land. staring down the sheer cliff edge with great trust in not only the driver but the bus as well. slot canyons so narrow that even mama ganga has to force herself between the smooth boulders. waterfalls dispersed along the drive spilling fresh melted snow into the running river. finally approaching the higher elevation, i feel the mountains. freezing cold air awakens my skin and breath. pine trees sit in front of the snow line and smiling faces peak through the layers of hats, scarves, gloves, and sweatshirts. and as i look out the window, i remind myself to meditate on how fortunate i am to be here. what may feel like hell quickly transforms into heaven. coaching my body through the physical pain and switching my negative thoughts into positivity. observing the situation and then excepting it.

240km (about 160 miles) and 14 HOURS of the true practice of patience.

although it felt impossible, we survived the ride and reached our destination. worse than i could have ever expected it to be, i immediately look at it as the past and laugh. with my aching body and exhausted mind...i add it as one more story for the books.

next...continuing to accept the present moment of india's inefficiencies, we arrive after our 1 hour journey to find out that we do not have the correct permit. keeping our cool. we take a deep breath, smile, and weigh out our options. deciding to take the legitimate route, we back track back to uttarkashi ( 4 hours each way). at the permit office we are told "not possible until the 20th " knowing that this date does not fit with our schedule. we sit down calmly and reply "sab kuch mileka...anything is possible." this is what we have learned in india...to accomplish anything you need persistence, patience, and you must remain calm. truly accepting the present, for denial will only bring about frustration. with pwermit in hand, we head back to the village and excite ourselves for the upcoming trek.

now the trek...remembering the balance of india as we enter paradise after days of struggle. leaving gangotri village behind and following the trail of bliss. mama ganga rages by our side, black crows soar above head, and shuffling rocks dance beneath our toes. surrounded by unexplainable beauty in the vastness of the mountain valley. snow covered himalayas compliment the crystal clear blue sky. clouds part ways to allow the sun to warm us. seriously surreal...leaving me speechless...babas accompany us on the hike that is so familiar to them. explaining their simple lives of living in caves for years of enlightenment. feeling the air become crisper as we make our way further up the mountain. staring ahead...blue skies, white snow. looking within...Being, Presence, Contentment. arriving at the lal baba ashram in the middle of nowhere where warm dal and rice await our hungry bellies. again joining ashram meals. sitting cross legged on the floor in aisles facing each other, we give group praises and begin to shovel the food into our mouths with our right hands. then finding a space on the floor that will be our bed for the evening. one small ashram that houses the world. as the wind blows, it carries voices of hindi, italian, spanish, russian, japanese, and english across the mountains into one space...we are all one at this moment. soon we walk down to the ganga whose flowing lulabye puts us in a dreamlike state for naptime. bundling up on our private beach as we wiggle into our sleeping bags like two snug caterpillars in their caccoon. laying on the patch of white sand with glowing himalayan quartz surrounding. feeling my sore body ache and enjoying every second of where i am. working hard...relaxing harder. and as i open my eyes, lick my wind chapped lips, and put on another layer, i remember that i am right here, right now, at one with the everflowing energy of the everflowing nature. the only stillness is within me as the wind blows, the ganga flows, the clouds float, and the snow melts.

lastly the destination...gomoukh glacier...

starting our morning off early once again. porridge and hot tea warm our bodies that are still chilled from the elevated mountain air. hiking our last couple of hours before we reach our final destination. the sun hides behind a blanket of clouds...my body is warm on the inside but cold to the outer touch. becoming closer and closer to the source of the ganga. shiva temples and shrines appear and energy rises. observing the sound of the flowing water that dissipates behind mountain rock walls. climbing over unstable terrain that loosens with each and every step. arriving to the glacier just as everyone is leaving. perfect timing for this perfect moment. wary of standing too close, for ice ships surprise us and cascade down. alone at this magical monument, we take advantage of our privacy and brave a holy bath. splashing myself with the freezing cold water that numbs me head to toe. soaking it all in before we reluctantly leave. so free and so remote..just me and nature. and as i feel like i am in my own world, the occasional local trekker passes by with "namaste" smiles that leak out from in between gasps of air. completing this marathon race against the clouds. darkness overhead ad snow falling in the not so distant mountains, but we continue to stay dry. pachamama knows that our bodies are being challenged enough with aching muscles, bones, and joints...delirium form exhaustion. and as we depart the glacier for the trek back, my eyes begin to fill up with tears. absorbing the beauty that will soon be left behind. walking back in silence allowing myself to observe my surroundings as well as the thoughts within me. reflecting on this journey and trying to remain strong in the present within the whirlwind of the past and future. looking back and seeming like i was just at home yesterday but that i have experienced a lifetime of memories and lessons that i will forever take with me. overwhelmed that sarah is leaving india in 2 days and me in 2 weeks, i take a moment to close my eyes and remember that india will always be with me.

and although the elves and gnomes never appeared in this fairytale, we both feel like savage warriors from a fantasy story.

25 miles in 2 days to reach what can truly be a piece of heaven!

sorry it turned out to be a book. pictures will be posted soon for those who dont want to read.

love and blessings to all of you

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