Valley of flower_Uttarakhand_India

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Ohhh! Not possible for me to avoid the warmth but fearsome invitation of the “Valley of Flowers” any more. Some times, I think about the curse of my father, when I was young. I told him about my dreams, about my future plan to become a tourist!! He is a man of conventional thinking and accustomed with darn reality. He ridiculed me saying: My boy! You wanted to become a vagabond!! Ok may god fulfill your wishes!

Being suffocated with the long boring monotonous work, I too was thinking for some relief. And suddenly I came upon the idea of visiting Valley of flowers, which is far away from the Din and bustle of the modern sophisticated life but not too far from New Delhi.

After much hesitation, I finally dared to inform Mahua my only wife (My Brazilian friend Tony Fereira alias Perola says so!!!) who is an active but silent supporter of my Napoleanian wishes that we are about to leave for valley of flowers today after a while. And as per expectation she became furious and began to argue, that she had not visited the beautician for long time, our luggage is not ready, daughters have studies for examinations etc etc. Although I knew, she too is excited for our trip.

And ultimately we started our journey at about 3:00 in the afternoon with our little Maruti Suzuki Alto car, hurriedly packed luggage on the roof top, like a Gypsy Omnibus. In fact small car like Alto is best suited to travel in to the Himalaya because of its typical small structure with the capabilities to negotiate sharp hilly curves and steep gradients.

For the first two hours, the journey was not comfortable because of the busy road traffic. But Tandra and Tista my daughters on the back seat are engaged fully in Tom & Jerry tussle as usual without paying any attention to the jostling of their father with steering.

Now the density of traffic is diminishing, and Mahua is excited to drive herself on the wide, smooth National High way no. 24 with delight.

Lush greenery of wheat and paddy field with sugar cane at some place spread upto the horizon, fascinated with the clear blue sky perhaps trying to touch it, made me spell bound. Mahua perhaps became mesmerized to the beauty and could not noticed, how the speedometer needle has touched 105 Km/Hour.

But had to slow down and exchange our position as the evening is approaching. We arrived the Holy city Haridwar by the river Ganga at 8:00 in the evening being exhausted. And to retrieve energy for the tougher journey tomorrow. The Hotel rates are reasonable and we could manage to find out a four bedded room @ Rupees 500 for 24 hours. In most of the hotels, the Check in time is 12:00. But time is flexible. Room rent varies here as per nationality. The Hoteliers charges high rates from the foreign tourists. I do not know, what is done in the rest of the Communist countries around the world!

From Rishikesh, ascending starts. CNG in my already has exhausted well before Haridwar, so after having our breakfast with banana, germinated gram pulse, hand made cake of Mahua, I decided to refuel the car. Because after Rishikesh you can find so many petrol pump stations along the national highway no. 58, but purity is doubtful.

It is mid of November and temperature is clinging around 10 to 8 degree, but I was sweating. At every 10 to 20 meter, I am facing surprising sharp turns. The road surface is smooth, but maintaining its smoothness all through is almost impossible. Speed of Car is gradually becoming slower automatically.

At every step, I was thinking about driving straight into the river Ganga. We crossed one by one Teen Dhara, Devaprayag, Srinagar, Sweit Gaon, Kaliyasur, Rudra Prayag etc. Whole of body hair straightened up when I reached Rudra Prayag. It is this place of which I have dreamt in my childhood. And obviously the name of Jim Corbett came into my mind. I still can remember the adventurous story of Jim Corbette and how he prey the Leopard (Man eater of Kumayon). I closed my eyes for a while and I saw the hungry leopard is moving slowly along the bank of the river Alokananda and coming towards me!! My motor nerves suddenly pursued me to apply brake. And I opened my eyes to see a great surprise. The confluence of river Aloknanda and Mandakini waiting stretching its ice cold arms. If I would have applied the brake a little latter, perhaps could directly meet the infamous gate of hell. Here is some history about this Garwal Himalaya.

(Some Historian and scientist believe Arya race originated from Garwal. Perhaps in 300B.C. An Indo-Aryan ethnic group Khasa invaded Garhwal through Kashmir Nepal and Kuman. The natives for their protection built small forts called “Garhi’’. Later on Khasa defeated the native totally and captured the forts.

The Kshatriya( Lord Buddha is a descendant of this Kshatriya community) invaded this land and defeated Khasa accomplished their regime. They confined Garhwal of hundreds of Garhi in to fifty-two Garhi only. King Vashudev a Kshatriya of Kshatriya dynasty established his regime on the northern border of Garhwal and founded his capital in Joshimath then Kartikeypur. Aadi-Guru Sankaracharya visited garhwal and established Jyotrimath which is one of the four famous Peeths established by Aadi-Guru Sankaracharya. In Bharat varsh other these are Dwarika , Puri and Srinagar. He also reinstated idol of lord Badrinath in Badrinath, before this the idol of Badrinath was hidden in Narad-Kund by the fear of Budhas. After this ethicist of vaidic cult started to pilgrim Badrinath.)

Mahua became more alert, Tandra and Tista began gurgling to take rest in a road side restaurant. Now I glared my wrist watch, it is already 2:00 in the afternoon. A small road side inn. And we are the only customer. The owner greeted us heartily, with fresh ice cold water of Aloknanda. Tista is happy as the owner informed we can have only vegetarian dish like cheese, curd, mixed vegetable (Potato, Capsicum, Carrot, Cauli flower, Mushroom etc) curry and Rooti. Tandra became angry when she understood that she will not be able to have chicken through out the entire route. She began to complain Mahua, that : Baba (Me) always selects the route which is suitable for Tista. I have to wait for 5 days more for chicken curry until we return to New Delhi etc etc.

I took out the wiping cloth to clean the windshield glass of the Car. It has became very dirty now. After spending almost 45 minutes, here, Mahua warned me about our long journey. We shall have to arrive at least Joshimath before it is too dark. As driving in this hilly road during night is risky and who can say, whether the grand children of the Jim Corbett’s Leopard still searching at least for the fans of the Killer of their Grand pa!!

The owner of the Inn informed us, Himalayan Bears may wait for us to embrace heartily on the side of the road. But the beauty of small huts of slanting roofs, with small gardens full of blooming flowers of various colours, with the contour of great Himalaya, forgets us about all the stress and anxiety. Darkness appears quickly in the hill, so I was worried and thinking about how to arrive Joshimath before it is too dark. In hills, the Hotels and restaurants begins to close early due to heavy cold. Joshimath is comparatively having large population in this area. So Tandra & Tista was encouraging me to arrive early so that they may remain safe from the descendants of Jim Corbett’s leopard. Although I assured them, that Leopard likes only fatty human, and they should not be worried as Leopard will reject them being too skinny. Now I understand why Miriam , the wife of my Brazilian friend cum editor of Magazine Perola wants to be skinny.

I am trying my best to cover the distance before darkness but what I am seeing there? A Python? But my agony turned into frustration proceeding a little more! Long queue of cars. Landslide!! And the Army soldiers are busy to clear the road. No one knows how much time will be required. Tista is bored staying inside the car for long time. Tandra is busy with laptop and Mahua glaring at me with some meaningful smile. Suddenly I noticed through the view finder, Tista shouting seriously pointing towards something : Baba look lots of Ghorar Dim (Horse Eggs!!) there.

I was amazed, as I told her a few days ago, that Horse born from eggs, when she told me that she needs a Horse. I discouraged her for that time on the ground, that Horse eggs are too large and can not be handled easily. Mahua alarmingly shouting her not to go nearer, as egg white large boulders of different sizes scattering over the road. A dilapidated hut is found almost hanging from the cliff. At any time it may come down over our car. I forwarded my car a little away.

I am lost in the forest, wandering to find the way to out. A small waterfall there and trying to arrive nearer but seems me too far. I am now very thirsty. Suddenly a voice surprised me: Indianooooooo, tudo bem? Onde você está indo!! I was trying to find out the source. But long Horn of the cars from rear returned me to the reality. The road is opened. With much wrestling with the steering, I managed to cross the area.

The sun is now almost crimson red. I am trying my best to arrive safely to Joshimath. Now feeling too tired because of long driving, and need a cup of hot tea urgently. After crossing a sharp turn surprisingly we found a small tea stall, with a little girl as shop owner. She is frying various types of vegetables, dipped in gram pulse paste (Pakora). First time in my life, I ate bitter gourd (Uchche Pokora). No doubt it is bitter in taste, but Hot tea and Uchche Pokora, revitalized my energy. But Tandra, Tista or Mahua did not touched the marvelous recipe because of bitterness.

How far Joshimath is? I asked some other customers there. No Sir, you should not take risk to arrive there as the road is not good afterwards, some of the local villager replied. Better stay at Pipalkothi, you can have lodging there. But Not sure whether you will be able to have dinner at that time. My God!

Hearing such a good news, I could not dare to wait more. The darkness has engulfed, the whole earth, the headlight of our car progressing slowly piercing the darkness. The only sound we could hear is the crickets call and the sound of the waterfall, when opening the window.

Pipolkothi is a small town and we decided to proceed further towards Joshimath. Ultimately, we found a half closed clean and tidy wayside village lodge. The room rent was surprisingly cheap! Just Rs. 200 for 24 hours! The temperature is around 10 degree. My daughters asked me not to proceed any more. They need warmth of the quilt. We had to finish our dinner in a almost closed inn with Ruti, Tadka, and vegetables. The cold night passed peacefully under the warm rag, without know that I am apprehending some great trouble tomorrow.

We started early in the morning at 6:00 AM as the hotelier informed that, to go to Valley of flowers, we have to trek 25 Km from Govindaghat. In the daylight, I saw the place of our night stay. Mesmerising. It is a plateau, surrounded by green Hills. Picture like small huts, heaps of thatch kept as fodder for their milk yielding domestic animals.

Mahua was looking jubilant (Fresco como o alfaco) after deep sleep, and perhaps mosquito or some other flying creature fell in deep love with her, so he did not let her go without a kiss on her forehead. And this sign of love, she had to bear through the journey even some days after arriving Delhi.

The road very bad now. Marks of landslide every where, and very difficult to manage. Suddenly a huge military truck approached from opposite direction on a reverse sharp curve. I applied brake to avoid collision. Mahua was on the rear seat and her forehead struck against the my driving seat. I need some cold water to put on her forehead. Tista pointed out a waterfall just near a tea stall. The owner is a young Nepali Boy from Nepal of around 25 years. I relished hot tea, with vegetable noodles listening to unsuccessful love story and how his fiancée betrayed him. And thus to forget her memories, he came here and opened this tea stall. He had a companion too, a wolf like Himalayan Dog. Perhaps the Dog may have received such shock from his bitch too, who knows! I can not stay there long, because of the waterfall adjacent to the tea stall and to reach Govindaghat early. But assured him I shall visit here again to listen the incomplete Love story.

We arrived Joshimath at around 8:00 AM. Withdrew money from ATM of State Bank and refueled the car. This is the last place where you can have bank. The petrol pumps on the entire route does not accept Debit or Credit Card.

The love sign at the forehead of Mahua has now tourned into a 1 rupee coin. Seems the creature really fell in love with her. Ascending speedily from Joshimath, and after half and hour we arrived Givindaghat, where we have to leave the car and have to trek. I hurriedly dislodged the luggage from the top and took some useful garments, Laptop water bottle etc, in small bags to carry them on back. The parking owner demanded rupees 400 in total for four days.

We decided to fuel ourselves before proceed a long trek. We took breakfast cum lunch with Makai ki Ruti, Sarsoo Saag curry, curd. Just after crossing the bridge, ascending started. Steep ascending. The narrow serpentine pathway has vanished into the jungle. I began to grasping after ascending just 2 Km. The luggage on my back seems to be increasing in weight. We had to stop after every 100 meters, because of steep ascending. There are cold drink stalls, on the side of the pathway. But none can blame them for such abnormal high price. In fact they are providing tireless service to the tourists, just for some extra price. We were sweating profusely, so had to drink more water. It is advisable, to ascend slow but steadily and drink little water when want to take rest. On hill, the measurement of distance is quite impossible.

It seemed, to me that 1 Km at Hill is equivalent to 3 Km in plain land. So, after ascending 3 Km, I decided to hire pony. We hired 4 pony for Rs. 2000/-, but rate is negotiable.

We began to move by the side of river Puspaboti. The beauty of the path can not be described. So beautiful. The roaring sound of the river Puspoboti, with the sound of horse bell, made me dizzy. I was almost dismounted from the horse, as the horse jumped to get a short cut. Tandra is crying in pain, after long riding on the pony. Tista too is shouting being afraid to fall down from the back of the pony. But Mahua is steady, because she perhaps has understood, it is her last journey. None will be able to save her life now. And perhaps cursing me silently with all the abusive words she knows.



Three helicopter flew over us in 15 minutes with roaring sound, seems we are almost arriving Ghangharia. Helicopter service is available from Govindaghat to ghangaria and takes just 10 minutes. Charges are around Rs. 4000 per person. But I do not know, how much one can enjoy the fierce beauty of the nature flying in it. We arrived at last at Ghangaria about 6:30 PM. It is a very small town. We took shelter at a lodge @ Rs. 300/- per night. Arrangement is not too good. But is very much needed at this moment as we are completely exhausted now.

Ghangaria is too small village without any mobile tower or electricity. Market committee arranged electricity from diesel generator set which lasts for upto 9 o clock. So we decided to recgarge the batterie of camera and complete our supper. I have to talk to my relatives, who must be anxious not to have any infromations for a long time as there was no signal for mobile phone. Here exists only 3 telephone booth having the facility of satelite telephone. No other means of communication with rest of the world!!!! And naturally is very crowdy. Sikh Gurudwara is suitable fo having our dinner with Roti, Dal and Payes (A sweet dish).

We all woke up fresh after a cold winter night under the warm quilt of the guest house. The Hotlier provided two bucketfull of hot water at the rate of Rs. 10/- each. A quick bath with this little made us fresh and after having breakfast with tea, pokora etc, we started our journey for valey of flowers. At the entry point, the guard warned us to return within 3 o clock after noon as Himalayan Bear, Leopard etc may come out. The swelling on the forehead of Mahua is now spreaded more. It seemed me, after some time perhaps I shall ot be able to distinguish her!!!! But She was brave enough to continue. Tista began to ask me, what will happen is some tiger comes out right now, how shall we escape!! I was also thinking about this, how to reply her. But before getting the proper reply, we all became stand still!!! What a beautiful scenery!! We are infront of the river Poospaboti! White foam of water roaring down the little bridge over the river Poospabati! (To be continued)

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