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Published: April 2nd 2009
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19th. March : Early morning I and oliver were driven to main entrance of Dhikala forest where we were joined by Mr. Sumantha Ghosh of Vanghat and Tiger Camp Eco tour arm. More interesting than the tiger sighting, Mr. Ghosh informed us that as per my request, he had bought two bottles of Gin for our frustration and celebration of tiger sighting. But there wa no Tonic water. In Fact, in Eastern India, people haven't heard of Tonic water ! We swapped the 4w Maruti of Eco Tour for 4w Maruti of Forest department. Mohit, the driver, a nice young Kumaoni lad informed us that a few days ago while driving alone on a forest road deep inside the park found a tiger napping in the middle of the road. Mohit took good number of photographs on his mobile camera. He informed that half an hour later the tiger woke, got up and walked away while he sat in the jeep unable to go forward. Sitting beside him, I felt "tiger sighting luck" rubbing me off him. Then and there, I announced Rs. 1000 reward to anyone who help show me a tiger.
When we go on safari in Africa,
we all want to see a lion first. When we go to an Indian National Park, all we think of and aspire to see is a tiger. And therein lies the myopic insight of a true safari and game watching. Besides these two, there are other animals, birds, insects, plants, flowers, pug marks and foot prints that equally requires our attention and we must focus our attention to them. Otherwise, we have walked through all departments of Harrods in Knightsbridge and kept our eyes shut.
Drive to Dhikala forest Lodge, located in wonderful isolation in the heart of Corbett's tiger country, was some way away. Drive was pictureasque, negotiating negotiating hairpin bends on the mountain and flat bits in the valley. On the way we came to a place, deep in the forest, called Sultan. There was a forest bungalow. Mr. Ghosh told me that it was here Sultana Daku (Bandit) met Jim Corbett while spending the night. Sultana was India's Robin Hood - a real life bandit. I lost no time in renaming the surrounding forest as Sherwood forest !
Around lunchtime, we heard alarm calls of Rhesus monkey. It has seen the tiger and warning other
to the presence of a predator. There were few road workers toiling on the road who told us the direction tiger has gone. We waited, scanned but to no avail. So we returned to Dhikala lodge to check in seeing barking deer, sambhur, spotted deer and many species of birds on the way.
In the afternoon, after two hours of jeep safari, we mounted an elephant. It was an experience I wouldn't want to repeat again at any cost. No matter how many times it help me sight the tiger. Along with me, Mr. Ghosh and Oliver, a young Indian mounted with his infant son - must be three or four years old - all of us going out in search of a tiger. That was most appalling, dangerous and irresponsible thing to do. In Africa, where safari was invented and perfected, children under twelve are only allowed in certain specialised camps. And I am not aware that anyone allow a child under six years old in a 4w drive for game viewing, let alone an elephant back in Botswana where elephant back safari, along with horse back safari takes place. The kid kept chatting. Our Mahout, Ayub was
an experienced hand and took the elephant where he thought tiger could be. We travelled about half a mile from the lodge in the tall grass. Then suddenly, kid's dad shouted "tiger" and pointed where the predator was lying. It took a while to make out its shape. What a natural camouflage ! It had taken full fifteen minutes for me make out the shape and whereabouts of a leopard inside the bush in Masai Mara, Kenya, a year and half ago. The kid kept talking, perhaps he wanted to feed a chocolate to the tiger ! Camera clicked. Many more elephants turned up each with four people. The tiger was surrounded by elephants. It got up, walked a few paces and laid down to snooze. He did it a few times. Then it vanished in tall grass and up the mountain slope where elephants could not pursue it. I will be writing a separate blog about safari in Indian national parks and what should be done to make it professional and safe.
It was the first time that I saw a tiger in the wilds of an Indian jungle. What exhilarating experience. But I saved my thousand rupees,
for it was meant for Mr. Ghosh, Oliver, Mohit and Nirankaar, our guide from the forest department, though I gave him that amount when we sighted the tiger second time on second day, and that also when we were leaving Dhikala.
I had hot shower after a hectic and tiring day. Then Mr. Ghosh and Oliver joined me for G n T and a well deserved dinner of rice, Dal and egg curry. I fell asleep the moment I hit the pillow in the most comfortable room in the bungalow called "Hutment".
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