The best place on Earth - Varanasi


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Asia » India » Uttar Pradesh » Varanasi
January 3rd 2011
Published: September 18th 2011
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Alas! We reach Varanasi Junction Station @ 730am. We were exhausted from the long trip from New Delhi, thus, we stopped over to a nearby cafe and perk ourselves up with chai and samosas. It was freezing cold, and I desperately needed a blanket. Thankfully Anna loan her blanket to me for awhile till we reach to our desired guesthouse.

Lots of auto rickshaw wallahs were desperately waiting outside the train station, hoping to rip us off for a ride to our destination. Not forgetting to mention the commission they would be getting for recommending a guesthouse to fellow travellers.

We decided to book an auto rickshaw from the designated booking booth. However, to our dismay, there was no one manning the booth. Le Sigh! We left with no choice but to ask around who'll give us more bang for our rupees. One guy came to us and quoted 90 rupees, when it was supposed to be 60-70 rupees. Oh well, few cents difference anyway! I remember travellers telling me Varanasi is one of the cheapest city to visit in terms of food, accommodation etc.

We hop onto his auto rickshaw. It was really treacherous. The harsh cold wind was blasting off my face, and I was tattering, trying to control myself. 'It's mind over matter Han!' Still, it's unavoidable, and I was really hoping that we get to our destination as soon as possible.

Alas, we reach Assi Ghat. We paid the fare, and went to look around for guesthouse. I let both Guailo and Anna do the guesthouse surfing; my mind was thinking ' Vishnu Rest House', dorm, cheap cheap cheap. I was running out of money already to a point where I went to ask my friends and parents for some spare bucks, and promised that I'll pay them back as soon I as reach back home and get a job.

Both Anna and Guailo decided to stay together in one of the guesthouse nearby Assi Ghat. I continued my way to look for Vishnu Rest House, which is situated right on Pandhey Ghat. However, a guy came up to me and asked where I'm heading to. I said, to Pandhey Ghat. He kept on insisting that it is far away, and won't be able to last long with my so called heavy bagpack. To be honest, I've been through the Army, and 15kg of load and walking like 400m away is a piece of cake, unlike the usual 25kg of load with full battle order and 32km route march.

One thing about the Indians is that they would not accept 'NO' as an answer. Even if you're lost and they don't know the way you're heading to, they give you directions and assume that you're ok on your own. I understand where they're coming from; they wouldn't want to disappoint foreigners in their own land. But anyway, this guy was starting to piss me off, and he told me that he'll bring around to cheap guesthouses around Varanasi at no charge. So I'm like, very well!

We went around for like almost half an hour. I keep telling him that I want him to bring me to Pandhey Ghat. He kept bringing me to guesthouses whom he can get commission by getting me there. Eventually, we reach 'Vishno Guest House' and I assume that was the right one. I asked for dorm and the manager told me that the dorms are booked for hostelworld.com... I'm like WTF? Since when you are allowed to book a bed? It's not like Couch Surfing; even then, you still need to send request for a couch! I gave in, and paid a deposit of Rps 300, assuming that I will stay in Varanasi for 5 days.

I decided to grab a bite and have coffee and shower. I changed to my clean set of clothes and went off to meet Anna and Guailo. While walking along the ghats, a blue building caught my attention in Pandhey Ghat.

'Vishnu Rest House'

-_- I got punk'd!

I was fuming mad and curse and swear to that man who claim to help me with a sincere heart. Pile of bullocks! I walked along the narrow streets nearby Pandhey Ghat (you know where they have alleys/walkways with shops and cafes all around, not sure of the street name). I heard people calling my name.

'Farhan! Farhan! Han!'

It was Guailo and Anna. I went into the coffeeshop next to Cafe Mona Lisa (which soon became my favourite hang out spot in Varanasi). I told them about my experience, and couldn't stop cursing and swearing in the holiest site of Hinduism. Eventually, we began to chat about other stuff, and things to do in Varanasi. I wasn't really into shopping, although I badly need a huge ass blanket to keep myself warm. As usual, I tend to mind my own business by venturing places alone, hoping that I'll bump onto someone and strike a conversation and instantly become friends for 'life'.

I hated my first night in Varanasi, with that annoying experience with the 'honest' Indian man and witnessing the live session of cremation ceremonies. It was a bit too much to handle, but I was amazed with the Indians' attitude towards life and death. Family members sipped on chais and joke around while waiting for their dead family members burn to ashes. I was 'forced' to make donations to the asylum (something like that) where they keep all the sandal wood choppings and dead bodies waiting for their cue to get cremated. The old lady uttered some prayers/chants and 'pat' on my head a couple of times, wishing for good karma.

Hell yeah, I better need some of that. 1st night suck.

I went back to my guesthouse, and told the manager that I'm leaving the next day. He told me that I was unable to get a refund, because of he needs to pay commission to the Indian guy who brought me in. That pissed me off, but there's nothing I can do about it. Eventually, I packed my stuff, and slept my way to the next morning.


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