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Varanasi
Varanasi ...arriving early with +4h delay we started to make our way to the Hotel. This was a nightmare. We read and were told that the touts were tricky here, but the ones in front of the taxi stands were just something completely different. We headed to the stand to pick up a standard fare, you named the hotel and they gave you the fare for this area, but still the drivers were on about "NO, the hotel not here, must pay this, hotel here" WTF? They must think I'm stupid, I had a map!
Anyway after being dropped of about a mile from are hotel ("No go further, police fine"; it was the heavy traffic he didn't want to enter) then being guided from some stranger to the hotel, of course for money, we finally arrived in our little oasis on the Ganges. The hotel had a nice courtyard, shaded by over growing plants and with a fountain which attracted many birds.
Peace at last. The streets on the back of our hostel were something we haven't seen before, not even in Delhi. The small alleyways surrounding the Hotel/Backpacker district are narrow, over crowed from people and cows, noisy, dirty and
Varanasi
a picture of the burning Ghat taken from a distance. life threatening: Motorbikes should not be allowed through such streets. The other main streets weren't better; even being wider they seemed more packed, here you were constantly dodging the auto-rickshaws, taxis, and the bikes. Mayhem. Diana and I started to avoid these streets, it was by then just a little too much for us.
Suffocation from the smog, deafness from the constant sound of horns, all sins on full alert not to get run over or run down by people. And as if it couldn't get any worse you had the, "Rickshaw mister, good price Mr" or "yes Mr have best silk in India Mr you see Mr".
But now to the good sides of Varanasi.
The river bank is remarkably calm. Yes there are many people here, and the boats man are everywhere trying to persuade you into a boat ride at the best prices, but still it has a very calm vibe. This could be due to the rivers importance in the Hindu, Buddhist and Jains religion.
After recovering from the journey and the stress we made our way to explore the river banks. This was amazing. Everything took place next to or in the holy water.
Varanasi
Fire wood. Not for heating!!! People were bathing, people were praying, others were washing their cloths while others found watching more fun. Even the occasional cricket match was taking place on the
Ghat.
We walked a long the riverbank and ended up sitting on the Manikarnika Ghat.
This is their main cremation Ghat. This was a very strange but fascinating experience. First of one must find out what the Ganges means to the Hindus and what religious aspects are combined with the river.
Read this to get a very basic view:
# 3 Religious significance Corpses are carried through the streets. Wrapped in cloth, they are dipped into the Ganges and then sat upon a pile of wood. This is covered with some grains and then is sat alight while people walk past, cows roam around, and tourist stare.
Not much of a big ceremony. But to be burnt here is considered as the best thing which can happen. Your sins are washed and your ashes re-enter the circle of life. We were so amazed at how open all this ritual is performed. The families, if they attend, seem to be happy rather than sad. It is the ending of something good, but also the beginning of
Varanasi
preparing the Aarti something better. Death didn't feel as unreal as it is handled in the western countries. It felt to us as if they were glad, not because you were gone, but in the sense you are starting a journey towards a better life. Being buried and having family and relatives stand around crying, filled with sadness for long periods and then being "forced" to visit your grave years afterward s to remember doesn't quite feel right.
Why be so afraid of something so natural? People believing in Christianity should be looking forward to dieing rather than being scared. At least then one is in Paradise with the Lord. Shouldn't death be something to celebrate then? Well this is getting slightly out of control, but seeing these corpse burn with such little sadness and under such circumstances did bring up these questions, and Diana and I discussed this later on while dining on our rooftop restaurant enjoying the night views of the Ganges.
The next day we decided to visit the main Ghat and witness the nightly Ganga
Aarti at the
Dashashwamedh Ghat.
This is an amazing scene. Six large podest are scattered with flower petals, incense smoke hangs in and fills the
the air while hundreds watch from the Ghats, and many more from floating boats. I am not sure who perform these rituals, they are not priest but are dressed up as some kind of holy men. Anyway, for one hour bell chimes fill your ears dimming out the actual prayers, fire blinds your eyes and the only escape is to turn your head and smile at the many lights floating down the river creating a beautiful sight. Diana and I spent the evening off the shores in a boat with many Indians and enjoying this ritual. Towards the end we too let a candle, surround by petals, float down the river and are now looking forward to the good luck it should bring.
One morning we took a early boat trip up the Ganges to view all the early morning life. It was amazing. The sun rise soaked the town in nice soft warm colours. The scenes were breath taking.
We had just managed to rub the dust from our eyes, while people were up and working. Who washes their clothes by hand at 05:30 in the morning? The Ghats were packed with men, women and children crowded together
to wash them selves and perform prayers. Early morning yoga was also on the program, and it was here where we sat and listened and watch life go by while sipping our Chai.
Everything in this city is built around the Ganges and that does not just include the buildings. The people live their life in, around and through the river. Its such a beautiful thing to see. Even the men, being a man dominant civilization, take care and share the river with each other and woman. No separate bathing areas. No separate washing areas. Even the cast system doesn't seem too effective when it comes to the Ganges. The boat was amazingly peaceful and beautiful but the early hours left us tired for the rest of the day.
The same evening we noticed that next to our hotel was a much smaller Ghat where the evening Aarti was performed by 5 people, but without the crowd of hundreds. This was maybe even nicer than the one before, as no more than 10 others were watching, Diana and I being the only tourist. And they also had the best drum machine I have ever seen.
check out the pic Varanasi
some floating candles The next few days we spent waiting for our flight to Thailand. We originally wanted to visit some other places as well, but as all trains were fully booked we were forced into staying in Varanasi for a week! Well, at least we found a GOOD German bakery selling some semi decent bread. If travelling to India, I advice you to book as many trains as possible in advance as they are mostly fully booked!!!
We returned to Delhi were we spent two days, and the left to Thailand!!!
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