Day 1 Part 2 & Day 2 - Varanasi

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Dec 24 & Dec 25.

First of all, Merry Christmas from Varanasi, India to everyone! Hope everyone had a merry Christmas.

Warning this blog will be very long. We have lots to talk about since we arrived here in Varanasi.

The only thing I can said about India is "WOW!". What's an experience so far...

We arrived in Varanasi, India around 3 pm local time. Before we arrived in Varanasi, we had a minor hick-up. We did not realize that our flight from Bangkok had a stop over at Gaya, India. We thought it was a direct flight. We got off from the plane and proceed to the airport build. We got stopped by a guard who could not speak one world of english and asked a question. We could not understand what he was saying to us. Luckily, there was a guy that ran toward us from the plane and said "you got off at wrong destination". So we ran back to get on the plane. Oops!

Anyway, our flight from Gaya to Varanasi was about 35 mins. So we arrived in Varanasi, got off the plane proceed to an airport building with a small door to get to immigration. Once we walked in, there were two old guys and two old ladies setting on a small desk. There were no formed lines, people started to check-in all at once. It was crazy. There were two people at a desk to check our H1N1 declaration paper. Everyone entering India is required to fill that paper. He had a small laser gun that he pointed to your forehead and took your temperature, before proceeding to the next two person to get our passport stamped.

One I got my passport stamped, I proceeded to a guy who was standing alongside a metal detector door. I don't think that the metal detector door was working. He looked at me about three times and was not sure about me but then said to me "OK, you go". The immigration, baggage claim, custom declaration are all in a small room. It is very weird. So now we are in the baggage claim waiting for our bags. Ok, in the baggage claim area, there was a small conveyor bell. Once that started up, there was a HUGE RAT that ran across from that thing to a hole in the wall. I was very nervous that our baggage was not going to show up, but we got all our luggage.

One we collected our luggage, we proceed to the baggage detector machine. We had to wait to watch what's going on in front of us. Every time your baggage went through the machine, the guy that scanned your thing ask who was the owner of the bags. The owner of bags had to explain what they had in their bags on the monitor screen. That was wired to me since the official seemed to take the passenger's word for it without even looking in the bag. So we collected our bags from the machine and started walking to the door and an old guy stopped us. He said "Go here" and then a guy just collected our declaration customs receipt. We did not know what was going on. There are no formal process in the place at the immigration arrival area.

So we started heading an exit door where was a exchange money both. We were not sure if we wanted to exchange money at the airport or not, but we had no choice because we needed Indian Rupees for the taxi. After an exit door, we exchanged the money to get some Indian Rupees. We started walking to the building exit door and there were a group of Australian/British tourists (I think they were waiting to get on the flight to Bangkok) started talk to us. They looked at us and said "Oh, you guys just arrived". We walked over to talked to them. They looked at us and smiled and said "GOOD LUCK" :-). I think they were glad that they were leaving Varanasi.

We exited out the building and people started to swamp us with anything that they could sell. We walked to the prepaid Taxi booth and got a Taxi to the hotel. We arrived at the hotel around 4 or 5 pm, so it was too late to go to Ganges River to see the ceremony. We decided to clean up and eat at the Kabob restaurant. We tasted many types of Kabobs. It was very good meal overall.

The next day we got up around 5 am and got a taxi to the Ganges river to see locals pray and bath at the river. Later in the morning, we went to Sarnath where buddha gave his first sermon to the people. The Bohdi tree was where the buddha sat and meditated and is still there. The place was very sacred to people who are Budhist. I saw many monks from all over the world there at the site praying. Then, during evening, we went back to Ganges river to see the night ceremony. It was very beautiful and peaceful.

We were very tired so decided to stay in and order room service. Tomorrow, we are off to Delhi.

Steven

Ken's Blog Supplement:

What an experience this has been so far. Varanasi has definitely lived up to its hype. It is easily the most challenging place I've ever visited. It has also proven to offer some of the greatest rewards culturally. Where to begin...

I'm sure Steven told you about the Varanasi arrival rat experience we had while collecting our luggage at the airport. I swear that thing eye-balled me as it an across the room! Then, as we were leaving the luggage area, we came across a lone family of Australians who were waiting for their flight. Upon seeing me, I noticed they all seemed to get this odd "if he only knew" grin on her collective faces. Their only advice to Steven and I was to pay at most 450 rupees to get to the hotel - not a rupee more, and to bring plenty of handi-wipes because we were going to need them. With that and a somewhat chilling wish of good luck, we were on our way.

Ok, it was clear from the start that this was not going to be our typical vacation experience. But in the mere day and a half Steven and I have spent here, I feel we've collected a lifetime of memories and experiences. Not all good, not all bad but hey - that's the way life is huh? The first night we tried to schedule a trip to the evening ceremonies at the Ghats but we arrived too late to make it happen. So instead, we decided to take a leisurely stroll around the neighborhood. WOW - didn't happen. We got about a half a block before turning back! For one thing, there were so many vendors who were relentless in having us do what they wanted. Secondly, we came to a death-defying intersection that we were too afraid to cross! Ok, ok - we were tired - that was it. Chalk it up to a learning experience. But it was clear that we would have to prepare a bit before heading out next time - get our game faces on and butch it up a bit. If nothing else, we did manage to setup a morning Ghat run to the river with one of the taxi drivers. Under the circumstances, we saw this as a substantial success.

So 5:30 the next morning we meet our driver at the hotel gate and make our way to the Ghats. The Ghats are steps that lead down to the Ganges river. It is on these steps that Hindus participate in morning bathing rituals in the Ganges river. These rituals are meant to help ensure that Hindus enter heaven at death and do not continue in a perpetual cycle of reincarnations. For tourists, it is popular to rent a boat at the Ganges and cruise along the many Ghats to witness these sunrise ceremonies. So, after a short ride through the dark, empty streets of Varanasi, the driver parks and leads us through some narrow passageways to the river itself. As we are walking to the Ghats, you see close up how impoverished this city really is. There are people sleeping in the alleys. There is cow crap and garbage everywhere... It was so surreal feeling. The narrow passages, the decrepit buildings... It really felt like I was walking through a movie set. And I think on some level, it was easier to view it as a movie set then to really let it in because the emotional toll of considering this circumstance would be far too great.

At any rate, after bartering with a row boat driver, we headed out on the Ganges. What an amazing experience this was. So peaceful, so beautiful, so spiritual, so other-worldly! Aside from people bathing in this cold, polluted water, there were fires burning for cremations that were taking place during the day. It was so beautiful while at the same time, so bizarre. Definitely not something I will soon forget. Once the boat ride was over, Steven and I walked along the Ghats. This was also very rewarding. You can't help but get swept up in the situation. People just doing their thing. The cultural heart of the city laid bare for all to see and experience. What an incredible experience.

After walking along the Ghats, Steven and I walked through some of the surrounding streets and markets. Again, the streets are literally like open septic systems. But somewhat surprisingly, it was amazing how quickly that aspect of the experience faded to the background. Yes it is filthy, but it also has its own weird rhythm about it as well. You really have to be able to set aside western ideas of cleanliness and order and just go with it a bit to make the most of this experience.

After our visit to the Ghats, the driver drove us back to the hotel. We then scheduled a visit to Sarnath for later in the morning. Sarnath is a very important site for Buddhists as it is said that Buddha gave his first sermon in Sarnath under a famous Ficus tree. It was a 20-30 minute ride to Sarnath but this was actually the first time we were driven through the now busy streets of Varanasi. That was definitely an experience all its own! These people drive like maniacs!!! I swear we came within inches of hitting hundreds of people on our way to Sarnath. The streets are so crowded with people, bikes, motorcycles, rickshaws, cars and yes - cows. Yet the drivers fly through this mess with reckless abandon. Horns beeping all the way... I've been to other Asian cities where the driving is somewhat of an ordered chaos. It is kind of like seeing a school of fish all change directions at the same time. You would think that there would be a lot of collisions but there aren't. It is all coordinated with a set of rules I simply don't understand. Despite what seem to been incrediblely frequent near misses, I've never actually seen an accident. Nonetheless, the difference between the other cities and what seems to take place here in India is, that Indian drivers seem to take that same caotic driving pattern, and throw in a healthy dose of perpetual road-rage. I swear - the most important part of a car hear isn't the engine - its the horn! The really odd thing is that, despite nearly hitting so many people, none of those people seemed to even notice. It is all part of their daily experience. There was no - "hey you almost hit me." There were no one-handed birds flying. Not even a negative glance at the driver. It was all just common-place to them. Amazing!

Sarnath was beautiful and much less chaotic. A nice repreive from the city of Varanasi. We visited a meuseum and Steven took some fallen leaves from the famous Ficus tree to give to his family for luck. I'm really glad we fit this trip into our schedule as it did provide a needed rest from the chaos.

Finally, since this was our last night in Varanasi, we scheduled a visit to the Ghats for the night ceremony. Again, the drive through the busy streets was an experience all its own. And once at the Ghats, we found ourselves stradled with an unwanted guide who insisted on showing us the area and explaining what we were seeing. Actually, the guide was ok but I thought it was ironic that he told us not to talk to other people that approach us because "all they want is your money." That was all he wanted as well! Once they feel they "have" you, they jealously guard you from other touts. Steven and I felt owned by our self-imposed guide! Nonetheless, the ceremony itself was very spiritual and beautiful. While there, we also visited one of the cremation Ghats. Again a surreal experience as you can see the bodies lying there burning.

All in all, we've had some very interesting experiences in Varanasi. Through our interactions with the touts you could really sense a level of despiration that is simply plastered over with quick smiles and friendly gestures. The gesturs ulimitly, ineveitalbly and understandably lead to a desperate sales pitch. It can be quite heartbreaking. It takes a real emotional toll on you as you want to help but also feel somewhat scamed in the process. At the same time, there is a spiritual and culteral beuty about this place that is incrediably rich and compelling. While I am so glad we came, I'm also ready to board the plane. There will be no gleaming marble floors awaiting us at this departure lounge. No Starbucks knock-off with free Wi-fi. Just a dank bench and a wayword rat that has hopefully moved on as well!

Ken

　

　

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Comments

[rowel]

hey guys, enjoyed reading this

[Vince]

Stay Safe!
So excited for your adventure...stay safe!! (We missed you at X-mas brunch!)

[Tanya]

You might want to check your bags before you leave for a stowaway rat. It sounds like it took a liking to Ken! Thanks for giving me a great visual in words of all you are seeing.

[prateek asthana]

you have good snaps collections