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Published: November 8th 2007
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A wonderful time in Varanasi, one of India's holiest cities. Full of the Indian culture - a drastic place, either people love Varanasi or hate it. I was happy to discover that Varanasi took me in and showed me the beauty of the city and its rich culture. The Ganga- a completely different river in Varanasi than it is in Rishikesh, but carries the same mystical energy- or maybe it's the people living near this holy river that bring on or add to the spiritual vibe.
I was in Varanasi for the Durga festival- Durga is the Hindu goddess that fights against Mahesa Surya, the 'Buffalo Demon' which from my understanding encompasses all the evils in the world- the Durga goddess fights it all year, and the fesitival is to return her to the Ganges, because she has won the fight and they can let her go for now. Beautiful statues worked on for months, some 10 feet tall elaborated goddesses that are brought down to the ghats on the ganga and thrown in the river. The ghats are filled with people, pujas (offerings), the sending out of candles in leaf baskets filled with flowers floating down river, fireworks exploding
in the sky, children and women out in the lite up streets with beautiful saris worn. Performances of dancing and chanting and stick fighting down at the ghats. A beautiful festival to observe from a wooden boat, on board with a few friends- one is a film maker- cruising around with him that day, as he captured beautiful shots of the celebrations for his Indian Goddess Deva documentary.
The streets were full, lights hanging in the sky, a fun night out with my new friend Sara, a full on aussie chick. Having a blast in the streets, getting involved and making up a fake language to communicate in, just to mess around. One night I went into the Golden Temple, the most revered Hindu Temple in Varanasi. Usually non-hindus are not allowed in, but providing my passporrt # and some other information I was permitted in with my Israeli friend, a beautiful woman who is living on an ecovillage at home. The people packed in the temple, the puja going on, the Hindu priests in a smaller room in the center- white cloth wrapped around them, with their big round bellies hanging out as they canted amongst the smoke.
Kite Flying
Especially during the festival time, all the kids are out flying kites A layered candle holder filled with candles being danced around by the priests. Standing and observing, the baba next to me began to go into a trance- eyes rolled back and a little shaking, with his arms raised to the sky, chanting- his neighbors holding him up. I made an offering to Shiva and walked back into the night carrying with me this special energy that got rubbed off on me in the temple- a feeling I can't describe.
The burning ghats- many old or sick people come to die in Varanasi, and the dead are cremated on a pile of wood down by the ganga, where their ashes are later dumped into the river. Sitting and observing burning bodies, such a surreal experience. I found some kind of disconnect between what i was seeing and how I was feeling. Expecting some kind of reaction in myself, grief, anger, saddness....soemthing- but nothing strong in me arose, maybe just confusion. Just watching, with no strong feeling- a really bizzare experience. Its almost the heavy belief in Hinduism in India and the belief in reincarnation and learning about these perspectives and reading books that incorporate these beliefs- I've began to see
death in a different light. That its just the beginning to another journey and I have a feeling it will be a beautiful expereince.
If you are not married, or are pregnant, or died from a snake bite, or some other conditions, you are not cremated, but they tie a rock to you and you are placed in the river. My friend saw a body floating, and i think I saw a cow floating at one point.....so surreal.
The washing in the ghats- the holy ritual of being cleansed by the holy river. Some going for swims pretty far out- you wonder how they are still alive, by bathing and brushing their teeth in this extremely dirty water each day- strong immune systems they must've built up.
HUGE water buffalo roaming the streets, impressive beasts, but so gentle. They wait for each other as they make their daily trips down to the river and back. Goats that act like dogs, crowded streets, motorbikes, bicycles, rikshaws all zooming by. The constant nagging of someone that wants you to buy something, a shawl, a rikshaw ride, a drum- anything. Admist the chaos it is essential to stay 'shanti' (peaceful,
calm).
The travelers that stay for periods of time in Varanasi are all there to practice instreuments. The tablas, the flute, singing- the city is filled with music and creativity. Met some beautiful people in that city. The rooms we were staying at, above a families house, there was a cool guy, Adam who practiced the tablas for 4-5 hours a day, another older man who practiced singing and the indian accordian like instruement (dont know the name) and other israeli guys with a guitar, a jimbya and a home made digaridoo (sp?). It was quite the music house.
One night sitting with Sara- a die hard cricket fan, amongst a group of Indian men corwded around this one television in a little shop to watch the Australian vs. Indian 20/20 cricket match. Sitting and watching the game, Sara teaching me about cricket, such a bonding experience with the men around us, and renewed our appreciation of the Indian men. Can get difficult sometimes, they are constantly staring, and even if you hold eye contact with a stern face, or even tell them to go, they keep their deep gaze (at least some do). You feel like a
monkey or something, but you learn how to deal with it- it was just really nice to meet and make those connections with the brother/father types, who didnt look at us like meat.
Varanasi is a place I could see myself staying at for a long time- sad that my time is starting to come to an end and I need to keep moving. But I know one day I'll be back in this part of the world.
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will
non-member comment
amazing
You're gonna write a book of all this, right Kristen? The pictures and stories are so amazing, thanks so much for having included me in your list so I could share in your journey. I can't wait to hear more when you come back to Marin some time. Till then, Cheers! -Will