A Taj too far

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Taj & Park



Day 25. Monday 25^th December.



As the Sun newspaper would say: A MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL OUR READERS



We were up bright and early at 6am. Leave Hotel at 6.45 and walk to the South Gate, which is just around the corner. Half way down the road a guy tells us that the South Gate does not open ‘till 8pm, so we head for the West Gate where a large queue had already formed, although the gate was shut. We then had to join another queue for tickets, but this was a very small queue for forigners (Rs1000 each, kids free) our ticket price included free overshoes (for entry to the Taj) and a ½ litre of water each. Then we went to join the queues for entry. We found that there were 4 queues to get in: Full price tickets had 2 queues for Women & Men, and the Cheaper (Indian) tickets had 2 queues too. We joined our respective queues, very sexist queing. After half an hour, we started moving, slowly, slowly. Shirl & Esmee were going quicker than us boys, but eventually we made it to the gate. But this was where the heavy security began, and also explained the sexist queing as we all got frisked to within an inch of our lives. Then we had to get our bags checked (only one scanner between all, so this took a long time). They did not like the scissors that I had in my 1^st Aid Kit and I had to explain that the kids keep falling over and I need the scissors to cut plasters for their cuts, after talking to the boss man I was allowed to keep them, but not use them. Then they found my electronic cigarette which I was definitely not allowed to take in. I was told to take it to the lockers back outside the gates! I left my bag with the Reedies and set off. The 50 yards I was told it was, became 350 or more and the que to get in was now that long too. Eventually I found the place & got a receipt for the e-cig deposit, they wanted Rs20 but I had left my wallet in my bag, they said to pay later… I hurried back and got back in through the exit quickly & easily enough, past the armed guards who remembered me, and finally found the others. We wandered into the complex. By this time it was after 8am and the South Gate was open!!!



We made a slow progression through the complex, all the main viewpoints were crowded, but with a little patience you could get that iconic shot (along with hundreds of others). One guy was showing us the reflection in a shallow lake, then told me off for videoing it! In all I was told off for having a camcorder about 6 times and told to turn it off. Why? Who knows, mindless beurocracy methinks, many people had tablets or mobile phones that probably take better videos than my little camcorder but they were OK apparently. I chose the best course which was to turn off when asked, then on again when clear. Esmee went through the usual barrage of selfies here, maybe more than usual. Rocco avoided them, even when asked very nicely. We think we located the Princess Di seat here, but were baffled as to how she was here alone, must have come on a Friday.



When we finally reached the Taj itself then the ticket segregation reared it’s ugly head again. Cheap tickets to the left (Indians Rs30), expensive tickets to the right (forigners Rs1000). This was where you had to remove shoes or wear the free shoe-covers given with our tickets. As kids got free entry they got no covers so we had to purchase some for them. Then climb the marble steps onto the main plinth area. There was something about the contrast between the red inlaid sandstone that the massive outer walls and entrance towers were made of, and the slightly off-white marble of the main mausoleum area. The 4 tall corner towers lean slightly outward, this is apparently so that, in the event of an earthquake, they will fall outward and not onto the main building – these Moghul architects think of everything.



Our privaleged tickets got us into the main cenotaphs with signs of No Photographs, Silence and Keep Moving. The silence was often broken by a guard blowing a very loud whistle when he saw a photo being taken, or by some workers shouting at each other. Indians seem to really revere this place, even throwing coins in the coffin area which was almost totally surrounded by intricate marble latticework. But these tombs are fake, apparently the real tombs are located in an underground vault, closed to the public…. Don’t tell the locals!



After meandering through some other inner chambers we found ourselves outside again, but at the back, with great views of the river. We wandered around our left-side of the plinth, Esmee wanting to climb one of the huge corner towers, but thankfully they were locked. Not long afterwards we left the plinth, removed our shoe coverings and headed for the South Gate. Halfway back we came across a buffalo rubbish-cart pulled by 2 buffalo, we took pics with Rocco & Esmee between the buffs, then the driver asked for payment. I’d have given him nowt (Indians didn’t) but Shirl coughed up a few rupes. I’ll tell the bin-man on my round at home (who’s in a band with my next door neighbour, Graham)….



At the South Gate I parted company with the others and headed for the West Gate to retrieve my e-cig. This done I grabbed a Tonga to the main road for Rs50 then, walking past a line of auto-ricks (not tuk-tuks which are from Thailand) I noticed one was empty and as I had Rs20 in change I offered this for a lift to my hotel, he declined. But as we kept passing each other he eventually relented and I jumped in. My cheapest auto-rick to date!



As I got near our hotel I heard Rocco & Esmee calling me and looked up, they were in the next-door restaurant that I ate in last night. We all had breakfast there, a slow process but done with lots of care as they seem to really apprechiate our business. About half the price at our hotel too! After breakfast we went to our rooms to chill a while (especially the kids). But not long afterwards I found them sitting in the front of an auto-rick, with the Hotel manager in the back, pretending to take him for a ride! They have been a real hit with the staff who have taken them under their wings. One guy told me how, after our arrival, his days were now happy and not like work any more. I thought he was leg-pulling but he went on to tell me how most guests are grumpy but us lot are so happy that it makes their day here! Yes, I was surprised too. But they really like the kids who have taken to calling the waiter “chai wallah, chai wallah” and another one “ice cream wallah” (he thought Esmee was called ice cream for a while). They are always hanging around the kitchen or reception, getting spoilt rotten!



In the afternoon we went looking for the nearby Forest Park which was only ½ mile from our hotel. (It cost us Rs100 for 4 tickets as Esmee said she was 4 years old and thus exempt ). The park was quite nice, quite hilly but with rounded bridges across dry stream beds, and a few flat plataus with nice views of the Taj, this time from the East. Rocco & Esmee kept going off the path & through the woods which I don’t think would be approved of. But eventually Rocco stood on a large thorn that went through his shoe sole and into his foot. I came to the rescue with my little 1^st Aid Kit; an antiseptic wipe followed by savlon & a plaster. Esmee said she had one too but she didn’t. After lots of selfies again,we went off the main path & into wilder woods where dalits collected twigs to cook with, some girls hussling Shirl for cash and pointing at her watch when they found she had no money! I gave them a few coins. After a while we realised that we were leaving the forest so headed uphill going off-piste and looking out for thorns! At the top, beside us, we found a kids playground! Our health & safety people would love it; a metal dome affair climbing frame, with sharp steel bolts poking through the joints; a see-saw made by the local steel-works, consisting of heavy girders with steel frames at the ends which may have had seats attached at some time; all highly dangerous and of course there was just ground below – no special rubber stuff. There were a few plastic slides which may have passed th H&S tests, a set of 4 swings, and a roundabout thingy. The kids tried out most of these before we passed on to the next field. This was an ampitheatre with a pair of large swings (Esmee getting pushed by a group of teenage girls on one of these) and a large concrete slide with stairs up the side, the slide was painted a dull red and was obviously very slippy. I sat with Bill & Shirl on the top rim of the ampitheatre where we could watch the kids below. Many kids running up & sliding down, but we soon noticed that Roccoalways came down just after Esmee & then tried knocking her over. As there were concrete slabs in front, this was not a good idea, but soon Esmee caught on and jumped to one side upon landing which left us free to sit and watch (having ben about to intervene) a guard with a big stick came by which may have helped.



As we were leaving, in a valley not far from the entrance, there was a large group of ladies with children, one was dressed as Santa and was handing out sweets, 2 other ladies were trying out blond & ginger wigs to howls of laughter. Not exactly Christmas as we would know it, I was sitting with Esmee and she was given a carrot, a large radish thing (peeled), and lots of sweets & crisps (too spicey for either of ours). Whatever they were celebrating, they were having a good time and seemed happy to include us too. A nice end to a strange Christmas Day.



For dinner we went to a posh place that we had passed earlier, for a special treat. But we really just paid more for what we could have gotten from our hotel. Made a change though.



Everyone was shocked that we were spending 5 nights here in Agra (those in Talla and Jaipur anyway) but this is because Agra is a day-trip sort of place; arrive one night, watch the Taj at dawn, see other sites during the day, then move on that night. This explains the frantic and aggressive hussling we have experienced, with the hint of underlying anger, but I’ve found it best to meet it with a smile. Coming back from dinner tonight, Rocco started saying “Handup bandova” to everyone and I took this up too. So anyone who says “buy this cheap” “see my shop” “do you want an auto-rick?” “where are you staying?” or whatever, then you reply with “Handup bandova”. They either think you are from some obscure country or just mad. We made many husslers laugh anyway, and stop hussling us! Try it next time you are in India….

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Comments

[Janice]

How sweet!
Lovely - what the hotel staff said about the kids. They (kids) seem to be having a ball. Just incase you don't hear from her, Ann is off to Lanzarote on 2 Jan for just over 2 weeks.