chill town

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For being so touristy (both foreigners and locals) this place is real laid back.

Two young dogs and the 2 year old niece of the fella that took me to my delux 100rs room on his moped wander around the grounds of the guesthouse, which is basically a house with some rooms built to the side.

Yesterday whilst wandering around town a group of newbies (1 Aussie 3 French) asked me if I knew a good place to stay, and I took them back "home" with me. Haven't gotten any baksheesh from the place, but it is good to know I give off friendly, talk-toable vibes to random strangers.

The French and I communicate in Spanish, and the universal language of amicability.

A young Tamil guy and his father (uncle?) got their picture taken with me while I was walking down the street in a lungi and a headscarf. First time since I was up in McCloud Ganj, and next time I ask for some baksheesh. Good for the ego, which in general might be bad for me as a whole. My self-esteem is already a bit over-healthy.

Went swimming a bit in the surf today. Had to be very careful, strong currents in the water, didin't get in over my head. Very nice though to let the waves rock me and to smell like salt. A Tamil guy who speaks almost no English and I hung out, chatted, and enjoyed the waves. I also met the two French at the same time and place, they work with horses back home and one of them rented one and was galloping along the shore.

I can't really figure out the economics of the temples and food here. There is a beautifu stone temple to Rama/Siva on the beach 564 years old that costs 250rs for the ferangi to see up close (I get a plenty good view from the sand, thank you very much) and there is one on a rocky outcropping a bit inland that is nine hundred years older and absolutely free!

Enough chow to make me uncomfortably full is 25rs (served on a banana leaf!) but for two liters of water the shada chamra gets charged anywhere from 22-25rs.

Tea has cost between 3-4rs.

Tried to negotiate while buying bananas this morning. Quoted price was 5rs for two. I say that in Kolkata they are two ruppees apice. The man running the stand says yes this is not Kolkata, to which I reply that if anything they should be cheaper because more bananas are grown here in Tamil Nadu. He half-amusedly, half-apologetically told me "tourist area", and I accepted his explaination and bought the bananas. No hard feelings all around.

Lots of Russians around.

Occasional rain/thunder storms. Very warm and humid.

The only troubling thought I have had here is how completey doomed this town will be if the sea level keeps rising. Apprently a number of temples have already been swept away by tsunamis over the last couple of centuries.

I know how to say "thank you", "hello" and "how much" in Tamil. I'm going to need some money from y'all if I post this valuable information.

India has really gotten in my blood.

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