Kodaikanal-Nov-2022

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Rameshwaram – Madurai – Kodaikanal : Nov-2022

Kodaikanal

Kodaikanal is one of the best hill stations in South India. It is about 2 ½ hrs drive from Madurai. Other comparable places include: Munnar, Thekkady (both typically visited during Kerala tour), Ooty (nr. Bengaluru / Mysuru), Kunnur (nr. Ooty), Coorg (via Bengaluru), Chikamagalur (via Bengaluru / Mengaluru) etc.

An advantage with all these places is that, they being in south (near equator), except Ooty (~8000 ft) none become too cold during winter. As all are surrounded by dense forests of Nilgiri mountains, they remain cool during summer. Except peak monsoon, any time is good time to visit them, including Kodaikanal. Immediately post-monsoon is perhaps best time to see numerous waterfalls. In November itself, most of the waterfalls near Kodaikanal had become almost dry. As the winter had not set in fully, climate was very pleasant and comfortable in November.

Tourists typically spend two nights and two days in Kodaikanal and it is sufficient. We had planned for three nights and three days and it was definitely a good decision. Especially after the heat of Rameshwaram and Madurai. Only disadvantage of three nights is that keeping taxi for Madurai-Kodaikanal-Madurai round trip becomes a bit expensive. We had used one-way taxi for Madurai to Kodaikanal and back. It is also a good idea to use local taxi for local sightseeing.

Our hotel – Abirami Grand Inn was good – although during our stay, restaurant was under repair – as it was off-season time. It is located at 10 min walking distance from Kodai Lake. We had the advantage of off-season rates – both in hotel and taxi.

Sightseeing by local taxi has its own problems. All taxi operators have formed a ‘cartel’ like understanding among themselves. They operate only on fixed routes and do not allow customization. They have various ‘tours’ called – Forest Tour, Valley Tour, Village Tour, Park Tour, Trekking tour etc (all from 9-10 am to 3-4 pm) and force you to take multiple tours to cover all important places. Each tour cover about 7 to 11 places.

Here is the combined list of places included in their ‘tours’:

We visited:

1. Coaker’s walk

2. Bryant’s Park

3. Kodai Lake

4. Vattakkanal Falls

5. La Saleth church

6. 500 yrs old tree

7. Moier Point

8. Pine tree forest

9. Guna caves

10. Pillar rock

11. Palani view point

12. Sheep and Rabbit farm

13. Mannavanur lake

14. Natural history museum

15. Silver water falls

16. Pambar water fall aka Liril fall

17. Green valley view

We did not visit as places either closed or water fall had no water:

1. Upper Lake View

2. Rose garden

3. Bear Shola falls

4. Wax museum

We omitted these places as we were not interested:

1. Shopping mall

2. Golf course

3. Jain temple

4. Kurinji temple

5. Mahalakshmi temple Lion cave

6. Mountain beauty (repetition)

7. Silent Valley view (repetition)

Required special permission to enter on first-come-first-served basis (starting at 8 am) – hence omitted:

1. Fire Tower

2. Berijam Lake

3. Poombarai village view

4. Chettiar Park

5. Mathikettan Forest View

Omitted - too long trekking:

1. Dolphin nose

2. Echo rock

3. Caps fly valley view

It is very much possible to see almost all places in 1 full-day (9 am to 4 pm) and one half-day tour. Best way to enjoy Kodaikanal is by walking. We walked for 5-8 km each day but omitted places requiring longer trekking. As November is off-season for Kodaikanal, and we had selected mid-week, there were not many tourists. This had its own problem – most of the eating joints were closed!

Otherwise also, for vegetarians like us, food is always a problem in South India since North/West India styled food is not available and by excluding non-veg dishes, options were really very limited.

Day-1:

Reached Kodaikanal around 12.30 pm.

In the afternoon, walked to Coaker’s walk, Bryant’s park and Kodai Lake (garden).

Coaker’s walk – less than 2 km (20-25 min) walk from the hotel. As the name suggests it is simply a footpath – about 1 km long on one side of the mountain that gives beautiful views of the valley and mountains on the other side. With a small entry fee, you just walk till the end and then walk back. Taking morning walk would have been better than the afternoon for photography.

Had an interesting experience at the entrance. There was a fast-food vendor selling banana-bhujji. Price was Rs. 20/- for 3 pieces. After having three pieces, we wanted one more. She charged only Rs. 27/- for 4 pieces and also gave change! Such honesty and simplicity was unbelievable - being a Gujarati. In Gujarat, every such thing is priced in multiple of 10. Nobody accepts a 5 rupee note. And at the only hill station of Gujarat – Saputara – they indulge in day-time robbery. MRP does not apply. Price is usually hiked by 1.5 times or at least by Rs. 10.

Passed by Bryant’s Park (1 km).

Kodai Lake – Garden side: Walked (less than 1 km) from Bryant’s park to Kodai Lake and enjoyed the setting sun in pleasantly cool weather at the garden. But by about 5.30 – 6 pm it usually becomes pretty cold and the day ends early – except at the food stalls. Our hotel was 10-12 min walk from this garden. Walked back to hotel (~ 1 km).

For those who can not walk, taxis are available for Rs. 100 per person for 1-2 km distance. There is no other mode of transport in Kodaikanal.

Day-2:

We had booked a taxi through the hotel agent for Valley + Village tour (part of both) - only at a combined price.

The driver turned out to be an IT professional doing WFH and driving for extra money.

Our first stop was Palani Malai View point. Lot of fog and little to view. We thought, may be, it was bit early in the day and hence the fog had not cleared. But that is how it is anytime in Kodaikanal. Although view was not clear, it was still a lot of fun moving around in fog / low clouds.

Next halt was at Rabbit / Sheep farm. Very little to see, a lot to walk. From anywhere in Kodaikanal, views of mountains and meadows are always excellent. That is the best part of this place.

Next, Mannavannur Lake. Same description will apply. A lot to walk. Excellent views of grasslands. Water activities in the lake were not open due to not enough tourists. Round shaped boats is the novelty here – called coracle or parisal. Again, the moving clouds enhanced the view.

Moier point: Changing weather at its best.