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Published: December 28th 2007
fruit stall
Fruit shop on the way to kodaikanalKodaikanal, where i have lived for nearly a year. A sweet hill resort with restricted construction and exploitation compared to its close counterpart in the south, Ooty. Though tourists throng as much as ooty, thanks to the the local authorities which prohibits any major constructions or developments that could spoil the serenity of the place. Kodaikanal still remains the same since 1970's despite minor alterations here and there. No new constructions are allowed around the lakeside or in the town. So its a must visit place for retreaters. Its still a quiet hill station as lonely planet quotes but only during weekdays and offseason and dont think anywhere close to the word quiet during season or weekends.
58kms of upward climb from Vatlagundu (Batlagundu) via Ghat Road would take you to Kodaikanal. On the way to kodai you have to enroute pambarmalai, silver cascade falls just 8kms before Kodai. The entry gate to Kodai is Munjikal a local market and crowded spot and then you enter Seven Road, the heart of Kodai, from where you can divert to either the lake or the town(main market) or Bryants Park or the Kodai Club or other parts.
STAY: Rates would be
private boat house
A Private House belonging to some VIP on the kodai lake. double in the peak season April and May. We went during off season somewhere like October when the rates cheap and climate will be a bit cold with rains. Initially we stayed at the Hamida Lodge, a cheap and decent budget accomodation with TV and attached bathroom for Rs.350/- per day(Off season rates in 2005) . You can also find something as cheap as Rs.100/-per day in a nearby place Mayura lodge and you would also get free mates like bed bugs and itchy blankets and common bathrooms. There are rooms for 400 or 500 or 700 or 1000 or 2000 or even 3000 as rates based on the service and quality of the infrastructure. Instead you can even rent a cottage for 2000/- or even a house if you are lucky, by the name of Stony Croft in Presentation Convent Road or the one opposite that which doesn't have a business name.
One other decent star category hotel I would suggest is Hotel Sivapriya, which is suprisingly cheap with double rooms at Rs.550/- plus tax(off season in 2005) and Rs.900/- plus tax (on season in 2005). The place is plush with good service and food and its also
lake cycle
rent a cycle and round the 6kms kodai lake the stopping and starting point for Parveen Travels buses (Chennai) & Sharma Travels (Bangalore) buses. People who travel through these buses from Chennai or Bangalore would prefer this place and it has ticket booking facility for these buses.
If you want 3star category i would suggest Hotel Kodai International or Hotel Hill Top or Sterling Towers which are pretty costly but worth in its own right.
Some good cottages can be hired if we contacted the right person. I found couple of people who have decent family cottages. Off season can be good for these cottages. There are some nice guides who wont take us for a ride and some who do..all they need is a commission from our contacts
TRANSPORT: The local means of transports are call taxi's (maruti vans) or Bus. The locals also use Jeeps as mass transport. But walking is the best to enjoy each and every part of the place. Cycling is also available but would be easier to climb uphill if with gear. The main Bus stop is at the Town area where all outstation and local buses halt.
I used to walk 10kms per day from my home in
horse gracing
A small piece of grassland behind Naidupuram Naidupuram to the town (lake area nearly 3kms) and back or i would walk till the observatory.
SEVEN ROAD: I found lots of artistic people both Indian and foreigners. One interesting place is the 'The art shop' run by foreigner, on the road which goes to library and Sunday vegetable and rural market called "Sandhai ". The Sandhai or the market will happen only on sundays and is the place for all local products and vegetables from all neighbouring hills and towns. It would be a buzz around every Sunday morning with variety of local food products and other exotic local products like coir mats, cooking vessels, spices, cheap shirts, cheap pants, foot wear (well dont expect international standards) and other products and that too at a cheap price and with bargain. The sandhai is part of the seven road.
There is good internet browsing center in the first floor above State Bank of India. There were 2 ATMs, ICICI and SBI, both within the seven road area. I find some foreign students from Kodai International School browsing regularly. Sometimes i also find a beard Englishman wearing kurta and dhoti speaking fluent tamil driving an ambassador car and
the road
back home from school teacher and students carrying 4 to 5 local under privileged children and teaching them computers and net surfing. Down stairs you can also find a small cafe or bakery where you can get some pizza's, breads and cakes.
My evening lazing point would be the lake where i found a small mostly unused wooden seating oppsoite to the Hotel Hill top gate where i would sit and gaze the lake and its activity for hours. Circling or cycling the entire lake would be a 5kms lap. Around the lake you can find a good masala chai (spice tea) venders and some other snack and artifacts counters. There are also horses and cycle available for rides.
FOOD: The best place for decent veg indian breakfast would be the restaurant of Hotel Woodlands or Hotel Aristo, both are on seven road. Lunch and dinner would be good here too. These place are of tourist quality and suitable for international tourists and north Indians. There is a small eatout to the size just 100sqft. close to my home in naidupuram called Welcome Hotel, its a place where the locals would eat and its got some good local food even non veg, very crowded during
chruch n homes
view from naidupuram peak hours and we have wait for the service. Its best suited for locals and people who would venture to taste local food. But there are number of other good eateries too.
In the town area you find hot fried chilly chicken or fish after sunset. You can get biryani (a sort of), parathas and hot non veg gravies in the town at Hazrath Mess, though not very classy.
Ice cream palours and cafes are also available. You can find number of roadside tea stalls in and around Kodai. Tea is the best drink for locals to quench the thirst of the cold. I would take tea for every 3kms i walk. Roadside tea should cost Rs.2 or 3 (as per 2005) depending upon place. The vadas or bondas form the roadside shops would be nice but chill, if you can get it hot, then nothing like it. One other thing i would like from these road side shop is a sweet fried bun, but not available everywhere.
TOURIST INTERESTS Lake, Botanical Garden, Pillar Rock, Coacker's Walk (the walk path of the coaker's, foriegn trekkers, who where the first to spot Kodaikanal some 200 years ago). Golf
valley view
view from coakers walk Course(Entry may be restricted). Guna Cave( The haunting cave that featured in the tamil movie GUNA), Bear Shola Falls (Bears can be spotted sometimes), Pambar Falls also called as Liril falls (where the controversial first Liril soap ad featuring bikini glad lady in early 1980's was shot). Astrological Observatory at the observatory road (check for holidays).
Berijam lake is about 20kms from Kodai and runs through the forest area. A pleasant and huge lake which features in most movies. Special permission has to be sought from the forest department if you want to go there.
There lots of group tours available at decent hotels, group sight seeing in a van of 10 to 20 people average per head is Rs.100/-. Small prvate vans for 5 would cost 600 to 700. Tourist guides can be availed at 150 to 250. (Rates as per 2005)
SHOPPING Kodaikanal is famous for Eucalyptus Oils, Winter Green Oils, Fruits like pears, plum, star fruit, Home made chocolates, spices, sweaters and shawls. Tea or coffee plantations cannot be seen in kodai.
LIFE STYLE Local people benefit with vegetation like potatoes, carrots, cabbages etc, tourism realted services like hotels, restaurants and transportation services. Supermarkets and local utility shops are also available. Schools, Chruchs are found in multiples. Lots of Tibetian exodus have small shops on the streets.
MEDICAL Very few medical facilities are available in Kodai. You can find few clinics and 1 main hospital called Van Allen Hospital. Locals go to Dindigul for any major illness. Numerous medicine shops can be found but only upto 7pm.
ENTERTAINMENT There are no Movie theatres in kodai since 1960. There is local TV and Radio Station run by the government. Satelitte television is available in most hotels. Gaming zone is available at seven road specially to the resident students of Kodai International School.
As a tourist i enjoy Kodai during the non peak season. During peak season travel for half kilometer by car would take 1hr sometimes. Though not many places or interests like Ooty, Kodai is calm and less buzzy than Ooty. I would like to laze around the streets of Kodai talking to locals and having street foods and enjoying the chill wind and fog. Rates may increase every year and there is a steep increase in real estate pricing due to the demand and boom in the Indian economy.
(P.S. This article is based on the facts and figures of 2005 and pricing, scenario and some places might have changed)
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ashish
non-member comment
not particularly impressive
I personally did not like Kodi when I visited there last year with family. I did not feel that ladies are safe in this town and could see loafers stalking ladies and commenting loose. There is nothing in Kodi to spend more than a day or two at most. Oooty was comparatively much decent. Anyway, others may have different experience.