Another cold morning and we are up early in Kodaikanal, ready to set off to Coonoor, a long drive in prospect. The previous evening we have had a club sandwich, unable to face another Indian meal after the burningly spiced thali served to us for lunch. Seems like chef had not served a club sandwich before. He had not done badly, but had not toasted the bread. He appeared at our table, head wobbling from side to side in excited expectancy. “How was club sandwich flavour good?” he asks. Such a sweet man, we just reply “yes, delicious, very nice”, and off he goes beaming with pride after first taking our photo. Off we go from Kodaikanal. We trek along the side of the Ghats, uphill and downhill. The road surface is awful, potholes with the
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