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10 km outside of Pondicherry lies the community of Auroville. This Trippy Hippy settlement is mainly made up of French and German spiritualists (read ‘lost tourists) looking for enlightenment. I went seeking my own holy grail … I was still looking for a beach.
The commune was set up in 1968 by Sri Aurbindo – A UK educated Indian who preached the importance of Independence and spiritual unity. With ‘the Mother’ he returned to India and set up a community (not unlike a kibbutz) so that “there should be somewhere on earth that no one can claim as property”.
Auroville forms a 15km or so circle and right in the centre next to a Banyan tree lives its spiritual heart – The Matrimandir. Its secrets are privy only to those staying within the community. As a lay visitor you’re only allowed to view this space-age style architecture from a distance – and a specified distance at that. You’re also obliged to first visit an exhibition on the thinkings of the great man and watch a video about Auroville – the aim of which is to ‘realise human unity’ and the Matrimandir – a giant gold orb which has at
Auroville
At least someone found some calm by the golden orb of Auroville its center a crystal reflecting the sun’s rays. There are no flowers, no flames, no incense, no colour… nothing but crystal and light to reach spirituality.
In the spirit (geddit) of things I wanted to meditate so I asked whether there was somewhere quiet I could go. (If you can’t meditate in this dominion of spirituality, where else?) I was told I could have the priveledge of some meditation space under a tree on the guided way to the Matrimandir. However the 20 minute treck in the heat and dust and the amongst touring Indian families wasn’t exactly condusive to peace and tranquility let alone spiritualism.
What I did find at Auroville though was some cool shade, and I rented a scooter and pootled through the manicured gardens and shady lanes. I paid 50p for my trusted steed for 2 days and left a 3 pound deposit, though I’m not sure it was worth that much. I’m not sure the owners did either as when I returned it the shop was closed.
True Aurovillians (ie: those who have lived in the community for more than a week) say that you can’t get a sense of the Auroville
just by passing through. I hope not as the difference between the treatment I got as a visiting European (even just for a day) was obvious when compared with the more dismissive treatment the Indian tourists got. For somewhere preaching spirituality and unity it left a nasty taste in my mouth. There is in fact a running argument as to whether the Auroville (ie: ex-pat) community is exploitative – all the workers are Indians. The Aurovillians claim that they are enriching the local community by providing work. I’d agree with that if I also saw some subsidized area for the locals to also enjoy what Auroville has to offer.
Other events over the last few days have included me checking into a beauty salon. I checked out pretty quick though when I saw it was offering head lice treatment. :-o.
I treated myself to an Ayurvedic massage. ‘Treats’ are of course subjective and in this case it would work if you enjoy being stripped naked, having oil poured over you and being hit over the head. Well, I guess it works for some.
Oh, and I did find a beach – eventually, listened to some Jimmy Smith
and watched the kids diving in and out of the waves – the girls still wearing their saris.
Overheard at Auroville 1 : “I think you must be on acid or LCD or something” – waiter to guest.
Overheard at Auroville 2 : “Je voyage toujours. La vie est un voyage” – Sebastien, Aurovillian, Parisian, and true citizen of the world.
I've also had somewhat of a Culture shock in Chidambaram Everyone says the culture shock is huge .. the poverty overwhelming. Everything you’ve ever heard is true. Even those who get by – such as the ricksahw-wallah, the stall-holder seem to be living hand to mouth.
But what is extraordinary is the proliference of broadband internet cafes and telecoms shops. In 100m youi’lll coe across at tleast 3 (that is as you step over the leper lying in the street and dodge the goat). It’s this juxtaposition of modern and antiquated worlds that’s the real surprise.
I had even bigger a culture shock today. India is not somewhere you come for a bit of peace and quiet.
A 6am start got me to Chadambaram before everything closed for elections.
Any thoughts I’d had about catching up with some sleep on the bus were put to rest as I shared my seat with a family of 3, whilst 2 guys sat on my bag. But at least we had seats. I pitied those who stood – or more realistically swayed as the bus lurched on its journey to each town.
There’s really nothing much to Chidambaram other than a big temple. The biggest in fact. Or a least the only one dedicated to both Shiva and his consort Parvati. I walked to the temple from my hotel and experienced my first exposure to gawping by the locals. I’m not sure if it was because I am white or because I was the only idiot walking around town at 3pm when the ‘mercury’ (as they put it) was heading towards 38.
It’s hotting up here now, or maybe it’s because I’m more inland, but today I certainly felt the heat.
India’s currently suffering from a heatwave - the North is seeing 44 degreess . I gather that Indians love talking about the weather almost as much as the Brits do, which I find a little surprising as you’d
have thought they would have worked out by now that it’s hot most of the time…
Indian busses themselves are a burst of energy and light. Modern Indian pop is blasted through all speakers – invariably turned all the way up to 11, so there really really is no chance of sleeping (though somehow the little girl sitting on my lap managed). As it happens the tunes were a fitting accompaniment to the passing countryside and hectic road-side stops. It also complimented the flashing lights and kaleidoscope images of gods that adorn most busses.
The place is awash with colour and sound. To read about India without hearing the bicycles squeaks, the rickshaw hoots, the motorcycle horns, the children’s laughter, the men’s booming, the women’s chattering and the clanging of devotional bells and metal goblets is like going to a rock concert and unplugging the guitar. When I arrived at my hotel this morning, I was given a room overlooking the bus depot and with the a/c fixed on 32. I asked if they had anywhere quiter and cooler. “Madam”, I was told “This is quite and this is cool”.
But today’s highlight was the Shiva temple.
You can see it’s richly adorned towers as you pull into Chidambaram’s main street. I was hoping to find a Hindu corner of calm there, so approached barefoot, bearing locust leaves and coconuts – one for each god. Instead I found cow shit, (not good with bare feet), more beggars, guides touting for work and a tired looking elephant who kindly blessed me with his trunk. And yet, I can’t resist going back there tonight to see the Brahmins again. Hopefully this time I’ll avoid the cow shit.
S
xx
PS: pics to follow.
Rachel – ‘behave’ and you’ll make it to the top of my list as my favourite oldest niece ;o)
JB – Your brother was right. Auroville was worth checking and I’m still tempted to go and spend a bit of time there. Maybe.
Steph - the motorised hairdryer that I hired isn’t quite South American on a BMW, but it sure was fun :o). Negotiating the Pondicherry traffic however was another matter but as soon as I realized that there are no rules (including which side of the road you drive on) I got the hang of it and was
soon tooting my horn with the best of them. So what if I was being overtaken by a family of 3 on a bike… I was having my own Easy-Rider moment. :o)
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Rachel
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Hey
Hey! Just saying hey! Keep having fun xxxxxx