Chennai

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Chennai, India

On March 12, 2008 our first anticipated look at India became reality as we docked in Chennai, the second largest city in India. Other than the Semester at Sea ship docked in back of us, the ships were all freighters, and there were lots of them. When we arrived we couldn’t tie up until two huge cranes were moved giving us space at one of the docks. Again we were in an industrial area requiring a long bus ride around cranes, trucks, freight, and miscellaneous concrete and metal structures to get out of the port.

We had to arrange for visas to India before we left the US, and we had to fill out landing cards to carry with us on shore as well as a list of all of our video equipment and prices. Guards boarded our bus at the port entrance, went up and down the aisle, and got off, noting the bus number as we left. We were never asked for the landing cards nor the list of cameras the whole time. We were told we would have to have a “passport-to-face” check on return, but that didn’t happen either. We did have to turn in our cards to them on return, but the officials didn’t even look at them. We supposed they just wanted to get on board and eat on the ship.

Our first impressions of India were not very positive as our bus headed for the fishing “village” along the beach. The area is filthy and terribly crowded. People live along the sidewalk in shanties made of corrugated steel and cloth and some wood and abutting other structures on three sides. These hovels are not much bigger than a couple of refrigerator boxes and whole families live in one of them. When asked what these fishermen earn, our guide said about one dollar a day, if they are lucky! These people are just existing and have no hope of improving their lot in life. People wash clothes, fish nets and animals in their basins and lay clothes on the beach to dry along with the nets. This scene went on and on the whole length of the beach.

When we turned away from the beach we were greeted by hoards of small taxis, autos, and people. We were told of the huge population of India, but when we saw the streets and sidewalks, we couldn’t believe the crowds we were seeing. As we continued through the city, we saw many private schools and universities as well as many temples, mosques, and churches. School children wore uniforms and looked very clean and prosperous compared to the children on the beach. We passed crowded markets full of food and goods where people were shopping. Then, we would see women in saris on motor bikes talking on cell phones. What a contrast. Again, the haves and have-nots are set far apart here. We have never seen such poverty on such a large scale. The beggars lined up when our bus stopped, and we realized that we couldn’t give to even one because others would crush around and we couldn’t give to them all. Very depressing. When we talked to others on the ship we tried to think of what would really do some good for the poor people there, and no one could come up with any solutions that wouldn’t take generations to solve, if ever.

Now we are headed for Mumbai, or Bombay. We don’t know if we will see more of the same, or if there is a difference in this larger, “Good Bay” city. We are staying two days there, so we will have a chance to see more of the city and its people here. Stay tuned.

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