Yumthang Valley and Zero Point

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Zero Point and Yumthang Valley

As often happens, we were ready at 0600 hrs, nobody else were up. After some breakfast we finally left the hotel at 0730.

We were rather disappointed that we could not explore Lachung which was rated as one of the most picturesque and culturally thriving little towns in Sikkim. As we reached Lachung only after dark there was little chance of that. Now the importance of Lachung has shifted as the gateway to North Sikkim with hordes of tourists using it as a staging post for their tour of North Sikkim.

Soon we were driving through the narrow lanes again. I had given up counting the number of "hairpin bends". Again we were just hugging the sides of the hills going up the hill then going down to the valley cross over the small river and going up again on the other side. This repeated a couple of times more. The surface of the road was manageable and the driver knew exactly which was the best line possible. We stopped at Mangan for a break and refreshments and at a couple of viewpoints.

It was an hours drive to Yumthang Valley and another hour to Zero point. Whatever I had written about the cliff roads to Lachung yesterday, the roads to Yumthang Valley was worse and was twice as bad as you progressed to Zero Point.

In addition the driver took a fancy to overtake any vehicle ahead of us often at U bends where the road edge was unprotected and the drop below was often hundred of meters. The road surface as we neared the Zero Point improved a bit except for stretches where the road had been obliterated by rock slides.

We got to Zero point(5000m). This is a place worth getting to at least once. The air was too thin. Attempting to walk a bit gave shortness of breath and giddiness in the head. A small stream passes through here with part of the water solidifying as ice. To the North we could see the snow-clad mountains of Tibet close by. Looking to the South we could see winding road we came up disappearing into the Yumthang Valley below and the snow-capped spiky mountains in the distance. Every day venders travel from Lachen carrying beverages and food for the tourists and guides. Spending much time here is demanding as the cold breeze freeze your bones.

Further ahead we could see the bunker huts of the Indian Army. Even with some heating I could not imagine how they could survive here in any comfort.

I was worried about the gravel on the road while going down and spoke with the driver to take it easy (if he wanted to earn a good tip). He was very good at handling the vehicle and obliged me.

Yumthang Valley was probably one of the most beautiful places I have seen anywhere. Any description I attempt can’t do justice to the place.

The centre of the Valley was a wide river bed with a modest stream running through it. The glacier melt water was turquoise blue (it acquired a greenish tinge when collected in large quantities as dams). On both sides were steep hills of lush forest full of dark green pine trees. In the North were the snow-capped mountains of Zero Point. In the South were the snow-capped spiky peaks of Kanjunjanga mountain range glistening in sun.

From the road we walked down to the edge of the stream for a few beautiful photos to cherish.

It took us another hour to get back to the hotel. Had an hour break, some lunch and started the 4hour drive back to Gangtok. It was 1800hrs and dark when we reached Gangtok.

Next morning I left Gangtok at 0500hrs by Shared Taxi for the flight to Kochi via Kolkotha. Again the flights operated by Indigo was good and punctual as before. As I had only one day in Kochi definitely it was going to be a hectic day.

One of the things that impress you most in Sikkim is how simple and friendly the people are. Even the soldiers were friendly and considerate. That also may be the reason for the general appreciation and friendliness to the soldiers there. We see in many countries where their overwhelming presence often brings bitterness and animosity.

The middle and south of the country is an ocean of green forests. Human habitation do not seem to have rendered the hills bald. The road trips through the winding roads were delightful and at every turn there was a new scenery of green.

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