Camels are not cute. They're not even pretty. In fact, some might say they're downright ugly. They're cantankerous. They regurgitate their food and chew it with protruding teeth, sideways. And they don't smell good either. Nevertheless, we thought Nagaur, home at this time of year to the second-largest livestock fair in India, would be a good place to break our journey north from Jodhpur. So, our itinerary included a brief stop to see the camels, cows and horses and to find lunch before driving another few hours to our pre-booked night-stop at Roopangarh. What we didn't know until we met Devendra at the Maharani Bagh in Ranakpur (see: ) was that her father, Karan Singh Bhati, was in charge of the Royal Tents - a fabulous tented hotel currently pitched, especially to cater for visitors to
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