After the Camel Fair


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Asia » India » Rajasthan » Jodhpur
November 12th 2005
Published: November 18th 2005
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Well, it has been a few days since had a chance to add entries. So this is a catch-up.

On Monday, we got into Jaipur about 8 PM. We had a 2nd train air-conditioned sleeper from Amritsar (much better than I expected) to Delhi with a connection to a bus to Jaipur. The only problem encouter was with the men who carry the luggage in the train station in Delhi (believe it or not, they are called "coolies"). We asked for the luggage to have it taken to the foreign visitor information office. But the coolies insisted that we go to their "information office" about a block away (apparent scam worked out with a private party). We refused. Then asked for the luggage to be taken to a taxi. Again, they wouldn't do it! We argued about 5 minutes with two other Indians (apparently also in on the scam on their side) entering the "discussion". Finally, we got them to release our luggage. So we pay them a minimal amount and hoped the first taxi we could. Leaving the coolies very mad as they were "demanding" much more for all their "services"! We took the taxi to the private bus station where we got a great connection - less than 5 minutes wait. Upon arriving in Jaipur, we got a hotel Sajjan Niwas ($22) in a nice quiet area.

On Tuesday, we have a auto-rickshaw driver take us around to the sights for the day for about $9.00. We visited the Jantar Mantor (oObservatory built circa 1730 that unconventionally separates the palace from the fortifications), the Hawa Mahal (circa 1730 - a pink palace in the Pink City built for the harem ladies to look-out over the city), and the lake palace (soon to be converted to a hotel).

Wednesday the 9th, we were still in Jaipur. This day we took an auto-rickshaw to the Galta Polthat where we walked up the 600 m hill that was lined with beggars on both sides of the path waiting for people to throw wheat and peanuts on their clothes on the ground. This valley on the other side is known as Monkey Valley due to all the monkeys who made this their home. There are also several temples there where religious festivals were going-on. The ladies and their colorful outfits were everywhere. We walked down to the other side of these temples to get an auto-rickshaw to get out of there ASAP. The beggars were swarming us, as we were the only foreigners around. The auto-rickshaw was supposed to take us to the fort in Amber but it was an adventure in itself. First, its clutch cable broke. So the driver pushed us a few feet where a mechanic was sitting waiting for work. After about 10-15 minutes we were off again. That is until we went another 500 meters where a shop was that fixed our flat tire. Believe it or not, that took only 5 minutes! It is amazing how quick repairs can be made here. We finally made it to Amber but the driver left us at the palace - not the fort. We didn’t know any better so we got out and saw the palace (started 1635…added to through 1725). It turns out the fort is another 8 km - all uphill. No wonder the auto-rickshaw driver didn’t want to go there! After thought, we also decided to forgo that experience. Instead, we went back to Jaipur and booked some railroad tickets. We couldn’t get anything we exactly wanted so we ended up getting the best possible, that is 3rd class AC. I finished that evening with a bus tour that went by the lighted buildings - Government buildings including Albert Hall, the Birla Mandir Temple (built in the 1970s), the Amber Palace and finally had a vegetarian buffet at the Nahargarh Fort high above the city. Wendy decided to forgo this night tour.

On Thursday we took a bus to Pushkar for the Camel Fair. The bus was anything but deluxe as it was advertised. All its seats were sold to paying passengers. In addition, they stopped to allow family and friends to pack in around the gaps! Nevertheless, we got into Pushkar about 2 PM and checked into a hotel (Hotel Paradise Inn). The rooms were about $28 which was an inflated rate due to the fair. We found Pushkar to be really geared for tourists with shops and hotels everywhere (kind of like Orlando?). Also with the fair, people were everywhere with the tourists being outnumbered by the religious pilgrims. That is due to the nature of the fair which is a religious festival built around the lake - the most scared in India. We both looked around the rest of the day - getting lost from time to time, as there are few landmarks and all the shops look the same.

Friday, we planned to attend several scheduled activities. Noticeably, the camel races and the camel dancing. However, we discovered that the activities planned are not what actually happens. In fact, we found that neither of these activities ever occured. So after sitting around waiting and hoping for the activities (actually sitting talking with other tourists for a couple of hours), we just looked around Pushkar some more. Neither of us decided to buy a camel as attempting as the idea was. Instead, we decided to leave Pushkar the next day and go to Jodphur.

Today, we got a driver (taxi) to bring us to Jodphur. We paid $34 and it was fine except the driver didn’t speak a work of English. This made our requested rest stop an real adventure. We thought he understood at first, but then he stopped and bought us desert apples! He seemed confused when we weren't happy (we did try them...not very sweet or juicy...something like a pulpy apple). Finally, it took Wendy studying the phase book and asking in Hindu to get him to stop at a toilet!

Tonight, we are staying tonight at Sun City Guest House. This guesthouse is owned by the brother-in-law of the owner of the hotel we stayed in located in Jaipur.


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