Jaisalmer - A trip to the Golden Fort and Desert

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Tour to Jaisalmer was the best part of our journey to Rajasthan.

Our quest for Golden Fort (Sonar Kella)

We (myself and my wife) planned for two days at Jaisalmer i.e. from the early morning of day 1 to the midnight of day 2 with night halt at Sam Sand Dunes, around 40 Kms from the city. Nevertheless every moment of our stay was worth remembering, be it the sunset view of the Golden Fort of Jaisalmer or at Sam Sand Dunes, Camel and Jeep safari of Thar desert, mysterious ghost village of Kuldhara, and last but not the least, varieties of local cuisines.

City in deep sleep, when we arrived

Contrary to expectation, our train from Jaipur (Leelan Express) arrived before time at Jaisalmer Railway Station. It was five’o clock in the morning. City was still in deep sleep and still dark outside. We were prepared for severe cold weather, but fortunately it was not unbearable. Most of the passengers seemed to be local residents except few travelers. They left for their destinations and the station looked empty within half an hour.

We had around seven hours to spare since the hotel timing would begin from 12 PM only.

Sightseeing arrangement

Our departure from Jaisalmer towards Jodhpur was booked thru train next day at midnight. Hence we had two full days at our disposal.

For sightseeing at Jaisalmer, we hired taxi in advance from a private operator called “Royal Jaisalmer Taxi Service” (Mobile [phone]). Mr Bharat promised to provide a brand new car (he sent the photo also). Car hiring charges agreed at Rs 5500/-.

I was skeptical whether he would be available so early. Hesitantly, I called and to my relief received immediate response from him that he would be arriving shortly with his cab and driver, which he did. Car was really a brand new Toyota ETIOS as promised, in tiptop condition. He kept his promise.

We were impatient to rush Jaisalmer Fort immediately. But he suggested that although the fort area could be visited anytime, it was too early to go anywhere. Regarding safety, the city was absolutely secure. But strolling at the streets in the darkness would be little crazy and might not be welcome by stray dogs.

Jaisalmer, was not a very big railway station. Unlike other large stations there was only a waiting room common to all passengers. We entered there for refreshing ourselves. Alas, it was packed with sleeping passengers. Outside the room, not a single shop, within the station premise was open. I inquired for Retiring Room booking but nobody was available to respond.

We asked Bharatji for two things, for a tea break as well as a nearby hotel for spending few hours and refresh ourselves. He assured for that.

A small tea shop, an unmatched pleasure

A roadside tea shop was open. Shopkeeper was busy in tea preparation and his assistant was distributing hot tea cups to customers. Nearby a bonfire was created with firewood to save from biting cold. Localites surrounding the fire were enjoying the hot sip. We disembarked from car and felt the chilliness. Last night I did not have sound sleep in train. Moreover, I am a habitual late riser. But there was no tiredness that day. Little discomfort evaporated with a sip in tea cup with locally made biscuits. We felt energized. Overall that was a fantastic beginning of our Jaisalmer tour.

Bharatji brought us to a nearby hotel. Hotelwala unwillingly opened the door after repeated knock. A quick bargain and he agreed to provide a room for stay upto 10 AM charging Rs. 500/-. It was ok for us.

After a quick refreshment we tried for a brief nap, but could not succeed. Gradually dawn approached, morning light illuminated the city and we returned to our cab.

Sunrise at Gadisar Lake

Our first visit was to Gadisar Lake. Jaisalmer was famous for its desert, but existence of a lake here was astonishing. It is not very wide in length. Entrance gate was artistically crafted and looked pretty. There were number of temples and shrines with beautiful carvings all over the place. All of them were made of sandstone, light yellow in colour.

When we reached, there was hardly anybody. Gradually the Sun lit the eastern sky above the lake water. Entire ghat area was smiling with soft sunshine, the colour resembling the saffron drape of a holy monk. We could see number of small fishes in the crystal clear water.

Lake was ideal for bird watching. A pair of lapwig was looking for food in the embankment. A kingfisher, was so much concentrated to his prey, he ignored our presence. Hundreds of pigeons, they were flying in groups. I came close to them but they seemed to be indifferent to humans.

We noticed, lots of Sparrows, flocking in different sized hangings from a banyan tree. Those small restless birds were a common sight in our childhood, but now they seemed to have disappeared from cities. This nest was not natural, made of wood and other waste materials by humans. Local people feed the birds there. Perhaps that was a nice example of co-existence between human and birds, which was heartening.

Time to wind up from Gadisar lake. We started towards our next destination, golden fort of Jaisalmer.

Jaisalmer Fort

Driver parked our car at the parking slot. There was change of guard. Mr Suresh was on the wheels. Incidentally he accompanied us to the rest of our journey.

Fort was around half a kilometre away on the uphill. But we loved to walk. There were number of eatery shops opposite to fort entrance. We entered the first shop to satisfy our hunger. An unusually fat person (probably the owner) was sitting on a small chair and the chair was hardly noticeable due to his physique. His welcome call attracted us and we occupied a window side table at the first floor. That was the ideal place to enjoy the beauty of the fort in the morning sunlight and also relish delicious Rajasthani Food.

Brief history of Jaisalmer Fort

As per history, Jaisalmer Fort was constructed by Maharaja Jaiswal around nine hundred years back. Historically the importance of Jaisalmer was remembered since it was the adjacent to “Silk route” covering thousands of kilometres from China to Europe. Many battles were fought in that fort and its ownership changed hands between Rajputs and Mughals. Its significance was subsequently reduced after the emergence of British in India and decline of the silk route. This iconic fort was made of light yellow colour sandstone which was unique feature of this place. There were hundreds of forts in Rajasthan of different sizes, but Jaisalmer Fort was famous for its beauty and colour. It was declared as a world heritage site by UNESCO.

As for our breakfast, we ordered Dal Pakhwan, a hot plate of Jalebis and tea. Food was still under preparation since we arrived very early. Meanwhile we pulled the chairs towards the shop window to have a close view of the fort. Entire wall of this tall gigantic structure made of sandstone, was so smooth like human skin even after centuries of erection. There was no hole or gap to climb thru its wall, except near the top. We heard that luxury hotels were running at the fort top. Unlike many other forts which were in dilapidated condition, this fort still maintained its glamour due to its natural elegance. It was an amazing structure and obviously one of the important monuments of India.

Most of the forts in Rajasthan were favourite abode of pigeons. This fort was also not an exception. Hundreds of them were emerging from the fort walls suddenly and flew in synchronization. It was around eight o clock, in the morning. Sunlight has been matured by now and created a magnificent view of the fort wall.



Dal Pakwan

Hotel boy brought our food and our attention diverted towards it. A large size flat puri occupied entire space of a big thali. It was fried and crispy. Hot and thick Dal (split lentils) was spread on it. Nicely chopped onion, tomato and coriander leaves laid on top of it.The dish was so colourful as well as mouth-watering. A dish with crisp Jelabis was served seperately. We consumed it without uttering a word. Last but not the least was tea, prepared with good quality milk. Food price was very reasonable. The hotel looked very simple and ordinary, but their preparation was remarkable and worth remembering. Overall, we had a delicious breakfast.

A walk Inside the fort area

Time to enter the quilla (fort). Fort entrance was almost opposite to the shop. Large number of inhabitants resided inside the fort. Originally Jaisalmer was restricted within the fort area only. Subsequently habitation started outside the fort area due to increase in population. Thus the fort entrance always remained open and there was no restriction in commuting anytime.

We hired a guide to approach further. Like any other fort, entrance was narrow and moved uphill with twist and turn. With continuous movement of traffic over centuries, the passage became very smooth and slippery. Pedestrians had to be careful not to loose balance particularly while going down. Nevertheless I observed two wheelers (even heavy motorcycles like Enfield) were moving effortlessly. Guide took us to important tourist spots inside. Immediately after ascent thru the main entrance, we reached to an intersection surrounded by tall buildings and a temple. All were made of sandstone and with windows, balconies, arches beautifully crafted. In fact all the buildings, temples in the fort area were constructed of sandstone and same colour.

Palace of erstwhile Maharaja of Jaisalmer inside the fort opened at 9 AM. There was no levy of Entrance fee anywhere, except entering this building. Photography was not allowed inside. Palace had historical significance; otherwise I did not find any speciality in its architecture. Next, guide brought us inside the Jain Temple. Minute artistry of the temple interior, its walls and idols were mind blogging. It was a masterpiece. We also visited some nicely decorated buildings of rich merchants.

Most interesting was the narrow lanes inside the Fort. I presume, I could spend a whole day wondering on those lanes. Some of those were so narrow that crossing an incoming passerby without touch would be a challenge. It reminded me of the, famous gullis (lanes) of Varanasi. There were hundreds of shops selling various types of merchandise. Many of the visitors were foreigners. Shopkeepers were tourist friendly and busy in negotiating with the tourists. Genuineness of the items offered, I had no idea.

Lost in the desert - Sam Sun Dunes

I have never seen desert before. When I was young I used to get surprised very easily. I remember when first time I saw the snow peak I became spellbound. As age grew the joy of getting thrilled had mutated. While moving towards the desert, I was thinking, when last time I saw anything for the first time and felt excited.

Our hotel booking was in RTDC Samdhani Resorts at Sam Sun Dunes, around 40 Km from the city. Drive towards our destination in the new Toyota was exceedingly comfortable and interesting. Jaisalmer was not a very big city. We left it behind very soon and took Jaisalmer- Sam Dhanana Road. Landscape quickly changed with miles of sands and green spots in between. Thorny bushes and occasional display of large plants could be seen on either sides of the road. A large number of windmills, seemingly skyhigh, were visible in some places, particularly on the right side of the roadway. There were few hotels and military establishments on the road side but no trace of water anywhere. Last few kilometres, there were very few traces of green, only sand. Instead of concrete structure, number of resorts could be seen on both sides, far away in the desert territory. They placed white tents in large numbers, hundreds if not thousands. Where they get the water supplies in a desert which would be critical for the boarders? Our driver cum guide Suresh, replied, the water source was Indira Canal. Network of this canal passed many areas of Rajasthan and became a significant water source of the entire Jaisalmer and desert areas of Sam Sundunes. We entered into the golden yellow world of sands.

Samdhoni Resorts, RTDC

When we finally reached Hotel Samdhoni Resorts, it was around 12.30 PM. It was a RTDC, Government of Rajasthan Hotel. Hotel offered two types of booking, room accommodation and tent cottage. We booked for the later online. Tariff was Rs. 4000/- for twin accommodation, with GST Extra. However, it included Breakfast, Dinner (or Lunch based on boarder’s choice), Camel Safari as well as Cultural program at night. Additionally they offered 30%!d(MISSING)iscount on the basic room tariff only, for Government employee which attracted me. While checking in we noticed that we were the only occupants of the hotel.

While booking the accommodation I contacted the hotel for arranging a transport for local sightseeing. But the response was lukewarm and delayed. Ultimately I had to opt for private cab operators. My experience revealed that comparatively private cab operators were much faster in response and professional in approach. I also enquired initially whether Camel Ride and cultural program were included in the hotel tariff, since that was not clearly mentioned anywhere in the RTDC website. However there was no clarity till I reached here.

Hence I was little skeptical while checking in, particularly after observing low occupancy. I must admit there was no dearth of hospitality and care during our entire stay. In fact we never felt we were the only boarders. My appreciation to Manager Mr Khan, and his boys for that.

My wife opted for the tent at the corner, to have a panoramic view of desert behind the hotel premises. They obliged. We entered inside. It was equipped with all facilities required for a comfortable stay. Toilet portion was a permanent structure, and the balance facilities at the tent adjoined with the toilet. It pleased my better half.

Manager suggested to take some rest since their program would start at 4.30 PM only. We thought otherwise. We requested our driver for a visit to the nearby point of Indira Canal, which he turned down because of distance and not included in our agreed program. Tanot Mata Temple near Indo Pakistan Border was more than 100 Kms from here, hence we had to abandon that idea.

Desert National Park was included in our schedule but that was proposed for next day morning. He was very enthusiastic to arrange for a Jeep safari ride in the desert for us, which we agreed subject to a taxi ride further down to the main road.

That was an interesting drive with desert on both sides of the road devoid of any destination. Jaisalmer- Sam Dhanana Road proceeded further towards the India Pakistan border, but it was far away. It terminated into the blue sky like a black straight line, piercing the desert land. We could observe straight, miles after miles from the car windscreen without any obstacle.

Around few kilometres from our hotel we stopped the car in a locality. There were number of shops in that place selling groceries and it was crowded with local villagers. We had a chance to walk and small shopping. I was surprised to find a costly DOVE bath soap in such a remote place.

Jeep Safari – a roller coaster ride

Jeep safari was the next program. I was initially reluctant since the charges were high (Rs 2000/-) for one hour ride, but ultimately agreed for it. Our carrier was an open jeep, normally used for goods transportation. We were to stand or seat on the open back deck of the vehicle . Driver told us to hold the handle tight. I did not take it seriously and paid the price. The cab hurriedly entered the desert and started dancing while negotiating with uneven sand dunes. Standing firm was a herculean task. My cap flew immediately. I had to somehow hold my camera bag to protect against imminent damage. I kept my mouth tight to save my teeth. Our jeep was going down from one dune and climbing to another with considerable speed. Entire ride was bumpy and roller coaster. We were deep inside the desert.

But the view of the sand dunes was breathtaking. It’s texture was like painted waves in varieties of forms and colours, somewhere golden, pale yellow and so many. Nature was barren and harsh but dreadfully beautiful here.

Geep stopped at a place near a hut. A local villager was preparing tea. Nearby a camel herd was taking rest ignoring the scorching sun. We had a tea break and photo session. I was surprised to notice hundreds of swiss tents nearby, deep in the desert. Our return journey was equally bumpy, by that time we were acquainted and adjusted ourselves. It was a unique tour.



Meeting with beautiful people and a Camel Safari

There was no eatery nearby, except fruits and snacks sold in carts. It was around 2.30 PM. We finished lunch with fruits and chocolates from our stock, and were thinking how to spend next two hours.

“Saab, Camel ride karenge? (Sir, will you go for camel ride?)” A teen aged boy asked us. He offered for accompanying us deep into the desert just for Rs 100. We already had Camel safari in our afternoon program. I was reluctant but my wife insisted. Next one hour or so, we had a memorable trip which we would remember for a long time.

He brought his camel. It was our first encounter with this amazing animal. Climbing to the camel back and sitting adjacent to its hump needed practice, particularly when the camel used to get up with his rider. Maintaining balance on a moving camel back also needed careful approach.

While walking we had a chat with the boy. His name was Abdul. I was amazed to know that he had come for extra earnings after finishing his class at school. Later he called his uncle also to accompany us. It was a pleasure to talk to both of them. We paid them double, but I must admit it was no match to their sincere service. They were so simple, open to their heart and gave their best for our comfort. Even after returning from our Rajasthan tour I still recall Abdul’s smiling face.

At Jaisalmer my taxi booking was for two days continuously. Here I faced some bottleneck, since there was no staying arrangement for driver at our Hotel. Suresh requested that he would return to Jaisalmer City at the end of the day before nightfall, but would return next day early morning. Unwillingly I had to agree and he left for the day.

Sunset Camel Safari

Our official Camel Safari began at around 4.30 PM as scheduled. By that time we became seasoned, how to negotiate with camel. Camel owner brought us to the same place where we had a remarkable rally sometimes back. Now the area was crowded with lot of tourists. Lot of traders were selling snacks, musicians playing folk instruments.

Morchang – A mouth harp

An aged man in rajasthani dress was repeatedly nagging to play a folk musical instrument. Again my wife insisted and I had to say yes. He kept a small instrument in his mouth and started playing with his fingers. Sound was sensational, perfectly matching with the atmosphere. Subsequently I came to know the instrument was called Morchang, a mouth harp.

Intensity of sunlight diminished and gradually the Sungod disappeared inside the desert dunes. Colour of the desert transformed to dark red. Entire environment looked mystic and surrealistic. I was mesmerized at last, after so many years.

Evening Cultural Program

Evening program was extremely colourful. We were brought to a nearby Desert camp. It was an open round shaped stage. Visitors were sitting on the carpet at the fence with small pillows for comfort. We relished ourselves with evening snacks, samosa, bhajji and tea. Program started with rajasthani folk songs. This was followed by Kalbeliya Folk Dance (traditional folk dance of Jaisalmer), Jhoomar, clay pot dance and many others. Dancers were highly skilled and mastered the art. A performance where the lady dancer had to collect blades from the ground by turning her body 180 degree opposite, was mind boggling. A performer was in taking petrol and expelling fire, we were thrilled. It proved that traditional folk art music and dance program could attract spectators if presented properly. We enjoyed the entire program. This was followed by buffet dinner with varieties of tasteful Rajasthani dishes.

It was around 10 PM. Our hotel manager was waiting at the gate. He immediately arranged for a vehicle and we returned to our hotel. It was quite cold now but we were prepared for that. After hand wash I threw myself under the beautifully stitched rajasthani rajai (quilt) and lost in quiet sleep.

Unsuccessful visit towards Desert National Park

Next day, early morning we woke up with a knock. Hotel boy informed that Driver Suresh reported with his car. When we started it was dawn but sunrise was still to happen.

Desert National Park was a favourite spot which we were keen to visit. It was famous for Great Indian Bastard and other desert animals as also birds, many of them available only at the park. Distance from our resort was around 30 Kms. But Sureshji was not inclined to drive to the park on the pretext of bad roads. We insisted and went ahead. After around 12 Kms of drive, road condition deteriorated due to bad maintenance but it was motor able. We had to adhere to his unwillingness since the car was new and susceptible to damage in such a road.

We came out and walked into the desert on the roadside. Outside was very cold which we had to ignore. It was not barren since many desert plants and trees were abundant. There was no human habitation in close proximity. Sunrays were emerging from the dunes and quickly there was a glorious sunrise. May be it’s a daily exercise by nature, but a desert sunrise was unique to us, particularly in such an environment.

Egyptian Vultures

There was variety of birds in and around, some of which we saw for the first time. A pack of Egyptian Vultures assembled near an animal corpse, which was noticeable. They looked pretty, white feather and yellow nose, unlike other ugly looking vultures. They were categorized as endangered species.

We returned to our hotel, little dismayed due to wishes unfulfilled but ok, we had to be content with whatever nature offered to us.

Packing up from desert

We had a healthy breakfast with bread-butter, omelette and Tea. It was complimentary. We packed up, left the hotel and moved towards Jaisalmer city. As mentioned in RTDC Website, 30%!d(MISSING)iscount on Basic Room Tariff was adjusted with GST payable,while checking out from the hotel.

We thankfully acknowledge wonderful hospitality provided by Hotel Manager Mr Khan and associates. Despite low occupancy they never let us feel that we were the only boarders. Room tariff (Rs. 4000) was also reasonable considering all the complementary facilities like dinner, breakfast, afternoon camel ride and evening cultural program taken together.

However according to me technological improvement was a necessity, particularly with respect to communicating and answering queries of probable customer thru WHATSAPP and Net, immediately, before and after booking. In today’s environment, this was a key to attract more tourists. My experience in contacting them post online booking was already expressed earlier. I think for effectively compete with private hotels and taxi operators, Government Hotels have to catch up fast.

Kuldhara –the haunted village

Our next destination was located on the way to Jaisalmer, far away on the right from main road. As per the legend, this prosperous village once inhabited by the Brahmins, was deserted by the villagers in one single night due to oppression of the local rulers. It happened around two hundred years back. Since then the village became hunted and abandoned because of the Brahmins curse. Nobody could stay here at night. Many people witnessed ghosts here at night. Many stories and movies were scripted based on that village.

When we reached there, it was almost midday. Morning cool weather disappeared. It was quite hot in the scorching sun. There was hardly any shed to avoid the sunlight. We hired a guide to accompany us and describe the story. Entire village was in ruins with no roof in any hut, only brick structure remained. Otherwise it looked like any other Indian village, without inhabitants.

Neither I have seen a ghost, nor I have the courage to have face to face interaction with them. Nevertheless behind every legend, there had to be some truth, particularly when the same had been believed for centuries.

Jain Temple and Badabagh

Jain traders in Rajasthan were very rich and religious. They constructed many temples both inside and outskirts of Jaisalmer Fort. We visited a Jain temple which was located around 15 Kms from Jaisalmer. Architectural beauty and intricate carvings of the temple interiors were really attractive.

Badabagh was nearer to Jaisalmer. Here the chatries (cenotaph) were made to commemorate the Rajput rulers and their close relatives after their death. These chatries were made on top of a small hill. Mughals were famous in construction of memorials which were available all over India. However those chattries also were masterpieces in their own right, a glorious example of hindu traditional art and local craftsmanship.

Lunch with Rajasthani Thali

We entered a restaurant called D’Desi Aroma for lunch. There were options for having food on a table, alternatively sitting on a floor. We decided for the second and entered a big hall. Well decorated carpets and small tables (Charpoy) were put on the floor. Food would be served for four heads per table. Gorgeous wall paintings and Rajasthani handicrafts were beautifully displayed all around the hall. Waiters were all wearing Rajasthani dress. A melodious local music was being played. Overall a unique atmosphere was created.

We opted for “Rajasthani Thali” which included Govind Gutta,, Ker sangria, Garlic Chutney, Kadi, Khidchi, Churma, Salad, Butter Milk and two Bajra roti (as per menu card). Items were served in small bowls nicely arranged in a big thali. Food was tasteful and we exhausted each item patiently, although I had zero idea about the ingredients. Overall it was a fantastic experience which we liked a lot.

Jaisalmer War Museum

Museum showcased India's rich military history with chronological description of events including the victorious war with Pakistan. We also witnessed a film on the great battle of Laungewala which was fought with immense courage and sacrifice for the country, crushing the enemy comprehensively. We purchased memento items from the museum's gift shop.

A running bull, crowd and a narrow escape

Built in nineteenth century originally by Patwas, who were rich traders in the silk route, Patwaon Ki Haveli was famous for its minute architecture and rich craftsmanship. The day before, due to time constraint we missed this important tourist attraction, while visiting the Jaisalmer Fort.

When asked for the location, a passerby showed the way but advised to move fast since it was closing time. We rushed for it, but in a hurry lost the way. A nearby shopkeeper showed the way. But we entered a narrow lane after some twist and turns and lost the direction again. It was almost dark but our enthusiasm still persisted.

Suddenly we observed that a crowd was running towards us and a healthy bull was chasing them with full speed. Both myself and my wife were dumbfounded not knowing what to do. There was very little space to save ourselves in a narrow lane. Fortunately, all of them (including the bull) crossed ourselves at lightning speed without any harm. Entire incident happened in a fraction of a minute. We thanked god for the narrow escape and abandoned the plan for Haveli. Nearby a shop was selling hot pakodas. It was delicious and a big relief indeed.

Sunset point near Jaisalmer fort – as if a legendary movie replayed

In the legendary movie “Mackenna’s Gold”, after series of conflict and suspense, Mackenna and his adversaries ultimately reached the great canyon of Arizona desert in pursuit of gold. Next day at dawn when the first beam of sunlight touched the canyon, gradually a passage opened. They were mesmerized to witness a large valley emerged which was made of pure gold. Tonnes of gold were glittering in the morning sun.

I saw this film in my younger days. I could recollect that scene when we were watching the “Golden Fort of Jaisalmer” from a view point atop a hill during sunset. I bet it was not an exaggeration.

After daylong sightseeing, Suresh, our driver brought us to a small hilltop. It was the sunset point, from where we could have a bird’s eye view of the entire Jaisalmer city. We reached to the edge of an old structure made of stone with a broad half circled balcony. Far away, the Jaisalmer fort was visible on another hill top.

Sungod was still very bright and there was hardly anybody when we reached. Within few minutes crowd started to gather and by the time the sun started going down, the balcony was full of tourists.

Real magic of colour started at twilight. With the melting sunlight touching the fort, it’s colour was changing from bright yellow to liquid gold and pale reddish at the end. A festival of colour started in the western sky. Everything displayed with the blessings of nature without any human touch. It was an incredible view.

A nomad group of folk singers were singing Rajasthani songs together. The group consisted two aged musicians and a young boy. They were playing three different instruments, one with Sarangi, another a basic harmonium. The boy was using two small flat stones to generate a unique rhythmic sound. All of them were singing together, but the young boy was the main solo singer and definitely the main attraction.

Entire environment was magical. We returned when the area was plunged into darkness and blessed with lots of memories to cherish forever.

We returned back to Jaisalmer fort area for spending last spell of our visit. Fort wall was beautifully illuminated and looked fabulous. We entered and walked inside the fort. There were so many shops, so many languages, full of tourists all over the world. Some of them were busy in having evening snacks while others purchasing gift items.

Dedicated service of our Cab operator

Sureshji dropped us at the railway station. I thankfully acknowledge their punctual and dedicated service. A brand new Toyota ETIOS car was provided to us. They reported at Jaisalmer Rly station as early as at 5.30 AM in the morning as promised, when it was totally dark and cold outside. Sureshji was our local guide, brought us to the tourist destinations and eating places. He was more comfortable in speaking Hindi and gradually, I also could enrich my hindi vocabulary, while interacting with them. He was friendly and took maximum care of us.

I have only a flip side to express. Visit to Desert National Park was promised in our tour. Next day morning after travelling around ten kilometres he did not agree to proceed further on the pretext of bad road. I had to agree since that was a new car. But I regret not being able to visit the park as promised. Here also I realised that booking the car continuously for two days was not necessary.

Retiring room – Jaisalmer

Our train (Ranikhet Express) would depart at 00.55 AM and would reach to our next destination, Jodhpur next day, early morning. We booked railway retiring room at Jaisalmer for 24 hours online, since it would be convenient to board the train at midnight. Room tariff was very reasonable (Rs. 705/- for an AC Room). Although our booking period commenced at 8 O clock in the morning, we checked in at 8 O Clock at night, without any difficulty.

It was a big room with toilet. Geysers at toilets were non-operational which caused discomfort due to cold weather. Lot of improvement was required in respect of cleanliness and amenities, particularly for staying with family. In fact, I observed that occupancy with family was minimal and truly speaking not very conducive due to above mentioned deficiencies. Probably, the lack of housekeeping was taken for granted by the occupants and service provider both.

There was no restaurant at Jaisalmer Railway station which was really problematic for staying with family. Quality of eating places adjacent to station was of low standard.

I hope retiring rooms in railway stations will be privatised very soon and customers delight will get proper importance.

Bid adieu

Time to bid adieu to this wonderful place. We boarded the train at midnight for our next destination with full of unforgettable memories.

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