We liked Amritsar

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We flew into Amritsar and had an expensive taxi ride £10 to our hotel The Akaal Residency, which was small but very friendly and very convenient for the sights. The roads are small like Jodhpur but in better condition and are cleaned each night. Traffic was normal Indian chaos where nobody ever gives way to anybody else resulting in blocked traffic at many junctions. If only they could see that it is quicker to let someone through rather than block him so that nobody gets through.



Soon we were on our way to see the sight we had mainly come for ‘The Golden Temple’, which is the centre for the Sikh religion. First we had to remove shoes and socks and cover our head, then bathe our feet. They even produced scarves on loan and had someone to show us how to fasten them. We are running out of superlatives to describe these buildings we see in India. This one was truly spectacular, the majority of it covered in gold as you might expect. The Sikhs (really pronounced sicks) are very welcoming and we were encouraged to go into the temple. Walking along the bridge took almost 20 minutes as it was one long queue to go in. When inside an American girl who was ethnically Sikh Asian, explained to us what was happening in the continuous service. Whenever a prayer started we had to sit down and Michelle was soon corrected for showing her back to a wall. Eventually we went back to the outside and walked around (clockwise). We had seen enough and also our feet were freezing, having first washed them in cold water then spent 2 hours walking on cold marble.



We moved on to Jallianwalla Bagh where the Amritsar Massacre happened. Here in 1919 the British army opened fire on an estimated 20,000 peaceful demonstrators in a walled square. The only decent exit was blocked by the troops and hundreds were killed (total numbers are disputed); 120 drowned after diving into a well to escape. It was a black day in British history and the place has now been made into a memorial garden. We watched a film show which made uncomfortable watching if you are British. However, there seemed to be no hard feelings anymore, indeed it seemed to make people even more anxious to have their photos taken with us. We were photographed with maybe over a hundred people because as soon as they see you are willing to be photographed they come in droves and Terry could pose for hours, a la David Beckham.



Next day we were off by taxi, to Wagha on the border with Pakistan, to join thousands of others from India and Pakistan to watch the now Monty Pythonesque tourist show of the closing of the border crossing, which happens each evening. Passports are sometimes needed as foreigners are sectioned off into VIP seats in grandstands, which hold many thousands on each side of the border. Cheerleaders on either side turn the crowd into a frenzy in chanting that was unintelligible to us. Border guards with ridiculous moustaches and outlandish head-dresses, speed march in pairs up to the border gate. Then after doing several Tiller Girl like high kicks, turn around and stomp back with much cheering and clapping from the crowd. Then the Pakistan guards perform the same ceremony from their side amongst chants of “Pakistan Pakistan”. The gates are opened and the apparent senior officers from both sides meet in the centre with an exaggerated show of shaking hands. The whole process is done again with continuous cheering from each side and then the flags are lowered, the gates shut and everybody returns to their cars, taxis, buses and scooters to return home.



Back in time to go to a local cafe for a thali, really a form of pitta bread with dips Indian style, then return to the Golden Temple for the evening ceremony of removing the ‘Book’. A golden sedan chair adorned with garlands of flowers, is carried by eight men to the temple led by a chanting guru. This time we were there until 10.00pm and our feet were even colder than last time, so we were glad to return to our hotel and try to get warm in bed.



We liked Amritsar the people in The Punjab are the friendliest that we have met in India and the hassle is less.

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Photos

Golden Sedan Chair
Going to collect the book from the Golden Temple in the evening. In the early hours of the morning it returns but too early for us!

Comments

[chris & Derek]

Amritsar
Don't think e-mail went. Never Mind. Amritsar looks beautiful, glad you enjoyed yourselves despite the cold feet - next time pack a Hottie!. XXXX

[hotel in amritsar]

hotel in amritsar
I just came onto your post and found it quite interesting. I am also associated with hotels in amritsar, hotels near golden temple and enjoy to read the stuff on the same as it's rarely found on hotels.

[Michelle and Terry]

Hi, I know it is a long time ago but if you want any more views that I have on the hotels we stayed at just let me know. Terry