A piece of Tibet in Orissa

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Since the Chinese over-ran Tibet in 1959 after an abortive uprising by Tibetans against an earlier occupation, and started calling it their own, there have been more than 150,000 Tibetan refugees come across the border into India. Of course the most famous is the 14th Dalai Lama who set himself up with one community of Tibetans in Dharamsala – in the Himalayan foothills of Himachal Pradesh.

Jawaharlal Nehru, the then Indian Prime Minister, agreed to provide all assistance to the Tibetan refugees to settle in India until their eventual return. 120,000 refugees remain in India today. The Dalai Lama maintains a government in exile in Himachal Pradesh, which coordinates political activities for Tibetans in India.

There are now Tibetan settlements across India – and one such place is Chandigirri in Orissa, established in 1963. This place is about 300 klms from Bhubaneswar (going south). There are about 3,000 Tibetans living there in four camps, and in Camp number four is a really spectacular monastery (gompa). One of the ‘government in exile’ ministers also lives here. There are a number of ‘institutions’ dotted around the place – Tibetan schools, a hospital, some livelihood enterprises (crafts etc), and a trades training centre (mechanics etc..).

Approaching Chandigirri by bus, we (four of us) climbed into beautiful hill country. Then just past the township, hearts lifted to see the chortens and the gompa on the distant hillside. This was nice, specially for me as it reminded me strongly of Ladahk and Spiti.

We went to sit in the gompa early in the morning during prayers and puja (it was the full moon and some special celebrations were going on including pouring many trays of blessed offerings onto a fire in the courtyard). The gompa is very beautiful, decorated with wall and ceiling paintings. Inside the monks chanted for what seemed an age – going through there loose leaf prayer books, interspersed with the gonging of cymbals, striking of drums, and blowing of horns.

Young monks (as young as 5 it seemed) ran around in the courtyard playfully, tackling each other and laughing. Many of these young guys are orphans sent here to live. They seemed very happy and well cared for.

There is just something about Tibetans. Lovely smiles which seem to be the default mode for them. And a way of relating that immediately makes you feel warm and accepted. And they are very laid back about you just wandering into temples - moving around and so on. There is so much less ritualistic rules at play than in Hinduism (although that varies a lot).

We only spent 24 hours there – but it was a good recharge for the soul in a very beautiful environment. And the gompa canteen served great food!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refugees_in_India

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Photos

Chortens
These are also called stupas - they are a mixture of things - where prayers are said - where stones have been piled up with prayers on them etc..

Kate at the Gompa
Kate is Australian and has a real job (as against volunteering) in an educational and vocational training institute in Bhubaneswar

Spinning the prayer wheels
By spinning these wheels Tibetans believe the prayer is said (written on the wheel - "peace to all sentient beings")

Flags across the lake
Tibetans also believe that prayers written on these flags are said by virtue of them flapping in the wind

Comments

[pnr status]

orissa is beautiful
Thanks for sharing nice information pnr status

[Marguerite]

For sharing the peace
Thank you again Paul for 'taking us there'.................I luv Buddhist 'stuff' - and your are so right about the recharge of the soul. Hugs Marguerite

[Prime Travel India]

Unique Orissa
That a part of Orissa is forever Tibet is a remarkable feat all by itself.

[Jo]

There is something about Balinese...
Same experience for me with Balinese people ...'Lovely smiles which seem to be the default mode for them. And a way of relating that immediately makes you feel warm and accepted. And they are very laid back...' My experience of the chaotic traffic in Bali (once attuned by Putu ... our beautiful young Balinese driver ... to the harmony and love that is so much part of the culture )was of sailing along down a river ... ebbs and flows and lots of respect...