Mumbai and Maharashtra

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January 18th 2006
Published: January 28th 2006
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January 6 to January 18
I just munched a delicious egg omelet in the middle of a dirty, loud, crowded and smelly intersection. The egg stand is the size of a small closet stacked head to toe with eggs, 1000 cracked a day. After the chai but before the eggs I was witness to a horseback wedding procession complete with a 15 member drum and horn band and a push cart generator powering giant house lamps camped on top of small children's heads. The groom was very Lawrence of Arabia, complete with curly mustache. I nearly fell off my cracked plastic stool when something much bigger than an M-80 was joyously detonated behind my back. By the time I'd finished the eggs I was witness to a tuk tuk accident, the second bystander I've seen hit, not nearly as bad as a guy getting wiped off a taxi in Mumbai. I have the distinct feeling of prey when crossing the street in India.

Arriving into Mumbai was bittersweet, I got to spend a fantastic week with Jen and Lily, two girls I traveled with in Laos and Vietnam for 6 weeks, but a bummer it had to be in Mumbai.
Lily and JenLily and JenLily and Jen

One of the few nights we braved Leopolds, the mere mention of the name prompted profanities from Lily.
I'm just getting over my kennel cough inspired within the first ten minutes of landing in such air. Travelling with such lovely gals I got to witness firsthand the obscene staring from Indian men, funny, some would stare so bad that they would run into each other or a variety of large solid objects. One night they got a break, at what passes for a club I was the center of attention, after being asked if I would do pullups for all to see, I was challenged to a beer chug off, for India's honor. No way I lose to a dainty sipper, after that though I became engaged to Jen and we were very very serious.

Stuck were we in Mumbai for Jen's passport was inside a stolen purse down in Goa. Most of our time there was spent in coffee houses, (not too bad, french press!) and in our rooms, (no bars, or anything else late for that matter.) Very lucky to catch up, that marked the fifth time I'd been able to meet up with someone I traveled with.

We did manage a little trip together along with Alex; an English traveller Jen and Lily had befriended earlier. The Ajanta and Ellora caves were magnificent. Eerily similar to caves I visited outside Beijing except for three religions represented this time. Jain, Buddhist and Hindu monks worked side by side generation after generation carving anterooms and statues out of solid rock, both are UNESCO sites and way too crowded on the weekends. India tourists would much rather take a snap shot of a western man or women instead of some old statues. We visited them in a rented car that featured bench seating in the back, old and curled up on each side. When you are young pretending a cornering car is producing g-force justifying a crushed sister - that was Lily in the middle. I spent most of the uncomfortable ride snapping photos of cows in vain, almost every cow for 2 hours had brightly painted horns in occasion of a recent festival.

My second round of goodbyes with them leaves me on a typical two day, four connection journey to Rajasthan, right now; cold, dry and colorful.

Additional photos below
Photos: 22, Displayed: 22


Back at yaBack at ya
Back at ya

We were getting the big stare down from everyone in the cafe, the girls decided to make a short film - eyeballs on pivots.
Blue SteelBlue Steel
Blue Steel

Most nights were spent in our rooms, glamorous huh?
Femmy hands - Manly handsFemmy hands - Manly hands
Femmy hands - Manly hands

We like to play stupid games - my arm is that elegant, hers is very hairy.
If I only had a bikeIf I only had a bike
If I only had a bike

The India hog, clutch and brakes are reversed - dangerous.

Five AM...

give me coffee.

Mine are the black ones?
No flashNo flash
No flash

To capture enough light I had to prop the camera in odd angles, by the time I was finished 3 or 4 guys would be breathing down my neck.
Restored PaintingsRestored Paintings
Restored Paintings

This is the upper portion of an arched entrance.

The goat guarded the internet cafe I wrote from.

This young man had the most captivating eyes I've ever seen. We bought him a small soccer ball, he would play with it for a few minutes and try to give it back. This went on for an hour.

31st January 2006

you've got another camera !!
Hi there, remember me a dutchie from the Gili's where you've lost your camera ! Glad to see you have got another one. Great pics, we've just left India and going to the Philippines on thursday, really looking forward to that. Bye bye and take care, hug Petra (

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