Tarkarli wasn't the easiest of places to get to. Off the beaten track, as it were, the little seaside city lay 150 km north of the ever-popular Goa and made for a jaunting 5-hour bus ride from Panaji. Set deep in the south of Maharashtra, India's second most populous state, Tarkarli and the adjoining village of Malvan are more geared towards Indian travellers and much less to foreigners. But they did promise an easy pace, less noise and air pollution, beaches to make Goans jealous and, of course, great seafood. And these were enough enticements to cause us to endure the bum-numbing ride. The bus rolled into the rough-and-tumble town of Malvan and from what we had seen, Malvan seemed like ramshackle collection of aged, wooden structures without a definite center. There was no sea in
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